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GilViking
Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Tue Aug 12th, 2008 |
| Location: | Pennsylvania USA |
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Posted: Wed Aug 13th, 2008 17:00 |
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110.92292100
At this point I am wondering what the hell to do next.
Everything works except the spin. With the lid closed It pumps out and the timer rolls on but no spin. Agitates fine.
I replaced the Timer for other reasons.
I checked with ohmmeter the Waterlevel switch, Starter switch, moter windings, and capacitor. I have replaced the clutch. I have had the top off and looked for clothing between basket and tub none there but could be underneath?
How can I test the Transmission?
What actually triggers the spin? Motor reversal or ???
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RegUS_PatOff
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| Location: | Milwaukee, Wisconsin USA |
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Posted: Wed Aug 13th, 2008 18:23 |
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GilViking wrote: ...What actually triggers the spin? Motor reversal ...
yes...
Does the Motor run or make any noise when it's supposed to Spin ?
Last edited on Wed Aug 13th, 2008 18:23 by RegUS_PatOff
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GilViking
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Wed Aug 13th, 2008 18:43 |
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Yes it makes noise but nothing very loud or specific. mThe motor must be running properly in reverse as the pump is pumping out rather than circulating.
I just tried running spin cycle with the cover off to see if the clutch turned and it did very slowly and jerkily rote just a bit but the bassket did not turn. Could it be that the break is activated?
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grey shrek
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Posted: Thu Aug 14th, 2008 05:55 |
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Oily , dirty, possible worn out clutch on top of trans. Have to take trans. out to inspect.
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GilViking
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Thu Aug 14th, 2008 06:43 |
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Thank you for replying!
I apologize my first posting must not have been clear, I have already replaced the clutch.
What I really need is someway to KNOW that it is the transmission qnd not something else like the brake not releasing.
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Budget Appliance Repair
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
| Joined: | Sat Apr 2nd, 2005 |
| Location: | Eureka, California USA |
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Posted: Thu Aug 14th, 2008 10:06 |
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You did check the drive coupling between the motor and transmission, right????
Maybe stripped out and not able to turn with load in spin but turns ok with light load of agitate system.
Make sure the plastic coupler halves are tight on the motor and the transmission and not all rounded out where the go onto the shaft.
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GilViking
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Thu Aug 14th, 2008 15:34 |
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Thank you!
That's a good idea. As I remember they did look a bit oval but they looked to me as if they were gripping OK I will look again and maybe replace anyway as they are not expensive.
BTW What does activate/deactivate the brake? Could it be stuck on?
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Posted: Thu Aug 14th, 2008 15:51 |
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| Some help on replacing the drive coupler here.
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GilViking
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Thu Aug 14th, 2008 17:48 |
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Thank you!
I will try the coupler bnefore I remove transmission.
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GilViking
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Fri Aug 15th, 2008 03:50 |
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Coupler didn't help. So now I check brake is not frozen and if not it looks like I need a Transmission.
It is still not clear to me what kicks of the spin after the drain. The moter is in reverse for drain so what inbitiates the spin after the 3 sec wait?????
Last edited on Fri Aug 15th, 2008 03:53 by GilViking
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Budget Appliance Repair
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Posted: Fri Aug 15th, 2008 10:53 |
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Neutral drain pak system internal to transmission.
When the transmission agitates it sets the neutral drain mechanism then when the motor changes direction for spin the spin pawl is locked so it can't grab the main spin gear.
When the timer pauses the motor for a second or two or you lift the lid to create a pause, a weighted arm in the neutral drain system unlocks the spin pawl and then when it starts again it will allow the spin pawl to engage the spin gear which then spins the clutch which releases the brake and spins the basket.
You very well could have stripped out spin gear in the transmission, (it's made of a nylon plastic material), I've seen a number of them stripped out and they can cause the stutter spin thing you're seeing if only a few teeth are left on the gear.
Last edited on Fri Aug 15th, 2008 10:53 by Budget Appliance Repair
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Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501
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GilViking
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Fri Aug 15th, 2008 13:43 |
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THANK YOU!
THAT'S what I needed to know! I will check for the brake being frozrn when I take out the Transmission just in case but It certainly looks like a new transmission.
Understanding how things really work makes it so much easier!!!!
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Pegi
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Posted: Fri Aug 15th, 2008 19:01 |
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| Bet this will help you understand how the Direct Drive Washers work...
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GilViking
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Sat Aug 16th, 2008 03:31 |
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Thank you!!!
I wish I had had that earlier it would have saved me trying all the cheaper fixs first!
Last edited on Sat Aug 16th, 2008 17:14 by GilViking
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GilViking
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Sat Aug 16th, 2008 17:13 |
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Thanks to all of your help. (And many hours working in spaces to small for me) We now have a working washer again. We were able to buy a reconditioned transmission for about 33% less than a new one My ;ast painful job was connecting the hoses which on this model are very difficult to do as the connector is cunningly designed so that you can only get two small fingers in and not getting the thread crossed is almost impossible. So I took the mixer tap unit off connected the hoses fairly quickly and easily and then fed the thru and reattached the mixer tap (3 relay version).
Again thanks for the help!
Sayonara
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