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52mpg
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Posted: Tue Jul 29th, 2008 01:00 |
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Our GE WSSH300 - I believe it's the same as a certain Frigidaire model - won't start.
When you press start, the wash, rinse and final spin lights come on solid, and the start light flashes on and off. Not in a particular pattern, just on and off.
When you press start again, the door locks and the door lock and wash light come on solid. Within the next second, they turn off, then come back along with the rinse and final spin lights, all solid. At the same time, the start light starts flashing again.
but the washer does not start.
We've tried turning the power on and off at the circuit breaker to reset it. We can't find the tech manual online, to see if there's some error code we're missing. It's not the control lock - we were able to turn that on, and off again.
Help! Thanks!
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Tue Jul 29th, 2008 03:30 |
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you normally won't find GE info online...
GE (Frigidaire) WSSH300 Tech Data
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52mpg
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Posted: Tue Jul 29th, 2008 08:36 |
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One detail - discovered that the full model number is WSSH300G0WW, if that makes a difference. It was manufactured in 2/07.
So, I tried getting the error code out of the machine, and each of the start and pause/cancel LED's flash six times in unison, and it beeps six times. E66 is not one of the error codes on the chart in the tech manual posted.
With all the 6's, maybe my washer has been marked by the Beast? 
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Tue Jul 29th, 2008 14:20 |
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are you sure its E66 ?
from another model: E66 Heating element relay failure. Refer to test (14).
Frigidaire ATF6000E Tech Data
Last edited on Tue Jul 29th, 2008 14:24 by RegUS_PatOff
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52mpg
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Posted: Tue Jul 29th, 2008 18:05 |
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: are you sure its E66 ?
from another model: E66 Heating element relay failure. Refer to test (14).
Frigidaire ATF6000E Tech Data
Definitely six beeps and blinks in unison. Is there a revised tech manual for the WSSH300 with the E66 code?
Assuming it is the same as the ATF6000E, would a heating element failure cause the whole washer to shut down?
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Tue Jul 29th, 2008 21:25 |
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| maybe the Control Board is bad (confused)
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Budget Appliance Repair
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Posted: Wed Jul 30th, 2008 10:38 |
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Yep, if it's like the ATF6000 that's exactly what it would do. I had one like this a couple of months ago would just power up and immeditely go to error no matter what cycle.
Error indicated bad heating element, found heater relay board mount had broken off the cheesy plastic mounts and board was hanging down between front and cement weight. The wires going to the heating element had came unpluged from the board so machine taught heater was bad so wouldn't run at all.
Board was ok, but to get new mount was like around $70 for the complete board and plastic holder board is mounted on so I used a piece of plumbers strap and made a new bracket to hold the old board and mounting bracket in place and it worked good and won't break off again.
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52mpg
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Posted: Wed Jul 30th, 2008 17:23 |
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Now _that_ is budget appliance repair in the best way.
How do I open this thing up to check on that - preferably from the front, because it's stacked under our dryer in a tight closet?
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Budget Appliance Repair
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Posted: Thu Jul 31st, 2008 10:41 |
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52mpg wrote: Now _that_ is budget appliance repair in the best way.
How do I open this thing up to check on that - preferably from the front, because it's stacked under our dryer in a tight closet?
AUGGGGHHHH!!!! Would have been simple if the dryer wasn't stacked on top, (I HATE THOSE!!!!!).
The ATF6000 model without a dryer stacked on top of it was just remove three screws in back that hold the top on and slide top back and off and heater relay boards is right in front.
You're going to have to take the dryer down off the washer to get to it!!!!!
Well, I decided to look up your model before finishing this post to see what you really have. I think you can forget about the heater relay, this isn't the machine like the ATF6000, this is just the newer style Frigidaire with the GE brand on it.
It doesn't have the heater. You need to pull the lower panel off and there will be a yellow envelope on the left hand side. It will have the tech sheets in it and will tell you how to put it in a test mode. It will also tell you the codes and how to read them.
Start there and report back.
You could very well have a bad door lock/latch switch assembly and if that's the case you won't have to remove the dryer to replace it.
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Thu Jul 31st, 2008 21:52 |
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Budget Appliance Repair wrote: ... I think you can forget about the heater relay, this isn't the machine like the ATF6000, this is just the newer style Frigidaire with the GE brand on it.
It doesn't have the heater. You need to pull the lower panel off and there will be a yellow envelope on the left hand side. It will have the tech sheets in it and will tell you how to put it in a test mode. It will also tell you the codes and how to read them...
I posted the GE (Frigidaire) WSSH300 Tech Data above, and he read the code E66 not listed,
but E66 = Heater Relay is mentioned in the similar Frigidaire ATF6000E Tech DataLast edited on Thu Jul 31st, 2008 21:53 by RegUS_PatOff
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Budget Appliance Repair
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Posted: Fri Aug 1st, 2008 09:18 |
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The ATF6000 is the Affinity machines next advanced newer model then the what I would call the mid style Frigidaire machine, (the ones where they changed to the inverter style speed control and the water inlet to the rear half of tub instead of the front boot).
I believe they both use the same type button sequence to enter the diagnostic mode but each have some different codes and the Affinity machines have the heating elements the older Friggy's/GE's don't.
Last edited on Fri Aug 1st, 2008 09:20 by Budget Appliance Repair
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52mpg
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Posted: Mon Aug 25th, 2008 15:47 |
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OK, got to work on this some more the other day.
We took the lower front panel off, and got out the tech sheet. Pressing Start and Pause/Cancel together still gives E66, which isn't on the tech sheet.
We tried the Diagnostic Test, and on the second step, the blinking pattern seemed to indicate an EB3, "Incoming line voltage below 90 VAC. - check voltage at the outlet. If above 90 VAC, replace the control board."
The outlet is behind the washer, in a closet. But, I really doubt that the voltage is that far off, or we'd be having a lot of electrical problems around the house.
Advice?
Incidentally, the matching dryer, DSXH47ECOWW, has developed a rhythmic banging. (We're washing at the laundromat and drying at home.) I can feel a vibration of something hitting the upper left front, whether or not there are clothes in the dryer. I can start a new subject on this...
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Mon Aug 25th, 2008 17:17 |
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52mpg wrote: ... replace the control board."
Advice?
Incidentally, the matching dryer, DSXH47ECOWW, has developed a rhythmic banging...I can start a new subject on this...
Yes
Yes
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52mpg
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Posted: Tue Aug 26th, 2008 03:40 |
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Whoa... so the control board is a $200+ part on a washer that was only like $550. Any way that it's something else, or that the board just needs to be reset somehow?
And, it seems like there are a lot of people online (relatively) having this problem with this washer. Is it the subject of a recall or a class action?
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Budget Appliance Repair
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Posted: Tue Aug 26th, 2008 11:12 |
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Before suspecting the control board I would clear the all the current error codes with the procedure indicated on the tech sheet and try it again.
See if the same error code comes back or not, then go thru each of the steps to check different machine functions, if they all work without a problem and you still get the error code of 66 which isn't shown, then start taking a close look at the door switch/lock assembly.
I've seen many of these electronic control model machines like this throw error codes of bad control board when in fact the wax motor in the door switch has failed so the do will not lock so it won't go into a spin, but that won't usually make the machine do what you describe when you first try to start it, (you could actually have a bad control board).
And the dryer is probably a button or zipper that has gotten ripped off and stuck between the upper drum glide and lower front drum seal. Every time one of the two seperations in the nylon glide rings on front of drum come around and bump over the zipper/coin/button if makes the bump noise.
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