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Maytag Atlantis will not fill, or agitate, but will come on in rinse mode

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Posted: Thu Jul 7th, 2005 01:05 am

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JPA2002
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Well, this is my first time here, so I would appreciate any help that you guys can provide.

My Maytag Atlantis will not agitate or fill with water, but if I turn the timer to the rinse cycle and pull the knob it works. It will not agitate in any of the various wash modes, but the rinse cycle forward will work.

The door switch is fine, the motor is running, but it appears that the timer box has "crapped out".

Can anyone help me here? Where is the best place to get parts if I need them?

Thanks in advance

Jon

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Posted: Thu Jul 7th, 2005 01:18 am

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JPA2002
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Model # is MAV7600AWW

Thanks

Jon

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Posted: Thu Jul 7th, 2005 01:19 am

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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If the washer won't fill, it won't agitate either. The problem here is either in the fill valve or the pressure switch. You'll need to use your meter to see if you're getting 120v to the fill valve during the fill cycle.

Last edited on Fri Jul 8th, 2005 02:10 am by Samurai Appliance Repair Man

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Posted: Fri Jul 8th, 2005 01:49 am

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JPA2002
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OK, here are my findings!

I have it working somewhat now. It appears the timer is working, as when I put the water temp selector to hot/cold the washer fills, but there is no cold water mixed in with it. If I switch the wires from the hot water solenoid to the cold water solenoid, then it lets in all cold water (on the hot/cold selection). If I attempt to change the water temperature selector, then it will not fill.

Also, just noticed that when the indicator on the timer points to rinse, the timer actually stops. If I move it past the rinse cycle and restart it, the timer starts working and gets ready for the spin cycle.

Is it the temp selector switch, or the water temperature sensor by the water solenoids? Or something else?

Jon

Last edited on Fri Jul 8th, 2005 02:04 am by JPA2002

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Posted: Fri Jul 8th, 2005 05:36 am

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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This seems to impliicate the water temp switch. But it would be so clear if you would just use a meter to measure the voltage.

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Posted: Fri Jul 8th, 2005 11:46 am

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JPA2002
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Voltage at the water valves?

When it is letting water in, it measures 120V on the hot, and 0V on the cold.

If I change the temp control switch, then there is no voltage on either valve.

Do I need to measure the resistance of the water temp sensor?

Jon

Last edited on Fri Jul 8th, 2005 11:47 am by JPA2002

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Posted: Fri Jul 8th, 2005 02:04 pm

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Ohm out the water temp switch to make sure it's switching correctly. Ohm out the temp sensor, in accordance with the spec listed in wiring diagram.

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Posted: Fri Jul 8th, 2005 03:14 pm

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Mad Mac
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These have an electronic temperature control board attached to the timer, there were issues with these causing this kind of problem. Check for voltage to your water valves as suggested. If you need a new board, use the link at the bottom of the page - if it doesn't fix it, return it for a full refund. No questions asked.

There was a thread on this a month or so back here.

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Posted: Sat Jul 9th, 2005 12:00 am

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JPA2002
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There should be continuity on the temp thermistor, correct? I checked the resistance, and nothing.

Jon

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Posted: Sat Jul 9th, 2005 12:09 am

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JPA2002
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Can I just put in a resistor to get the unit operational until my part comes in? What should be normal resistance of the thermistor be on this washer?

Again, there is no resistance, so there must be a break in the thermistor.

Thanks

Jon

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Posted: Sat Jul 9th, 2005 06:36 am

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Moostafa
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Hello, my resisting friend. I pray that you checked the resistance of the thermistor on the rx10 and the rx1K scales? Yes? Very good. You have thus proven that the thermistor has failed and needs to be replaced. In your washer, the thermistor is built into the water valve. Here is the part you need:

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1063699

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Posted: Sat Jul 9th, 2005 11:51 am

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JPA2002
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I checked it on the entire range of scales. I have already ordered the water valve, as I did suspect the thermistor.

I will let everyone know if this has solved the problem, and again, thanks for all of your help.

Jon

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Posted: Mon Jul 11th, 2005 10:09 pm

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JPA2002
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Well, I did not even install the new valve, but I did hook up the thermistor on the new part with the power on the old valves, and the same behavior. Looks like it is not the thermistor, so now what?

That control board is quite expensive.

Is is the board or the temperature switch, or something else?

Jon

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Posted: Mon Jul 11th, 2005 10:24 pm

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Wait a minute, you said:

I checked it on the entire range of scales. I have already ordered the water valve, as I did suspect the thermistor.

If you reported the thermistor as being open, then that would be a fault condition. The only conclusion here is that you did not make the measurement correctly and the thermistor is, in fact good. We're not there with you, so garbage in, garbage out.

Here's help on making simple electrical measurements:

http://fixitnow.com/2004/12/appliance-repair-revelation-making.htm

Read it, live it, be it.

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Posted: Mon Jul 11th, 2005 10:52 pm

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JPA2002
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OK, here we go!

I checked the resistance on the 20K ohms scale, and I am getting a reading of 0.00 k ohms. (Pay no attention to the low battery indicator on my meter - been that way for years). This is the new part directly from the supplier, and my old part checks the same way.

I am assuming now that it could be the control board, as the temp selector switch works fine per the electrical schematic.

Anything else I should check.

Thanks

Jon

Attachment: DSC00178.JPG (Downloaded 6 times)

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Posted: Mon Jul 11th, 2005 11:02 pm

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Well, there ya go: 0 k-ohms indicates that the thermistor does have continuity and that it is not the problem. Therefore, changing the valve would not hyave solve your problem. But this recommendation was based on bad information.

No assumptions-- post your wiring diagram and we'll proceed from there.

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Posted: Mon Jul 11th, 2005 11:05 pm

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JPA2002
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Yes, you are right now that I think about it. Sorry for the bad information.

I wonder why it did not work on my continuity beep check on my meter? Diagram is attached.

Thanks

Jon

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Posted: Mon Jul 11th, 2005 11:06 pm

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JPA2002
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I will scan it in if that is not good enough.

Jon

Last edited on Mon Jul 11th, 2005 11:07 pm by JPA2002

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Posted: Mon Jul 11th, 2005 11:28 pm

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JPA2002
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OK, here is a better one.

Attachment: WasherSchematic.JPG (Downloaded 8 times)

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Posted: Mon Jul 11th, 2005 11:57 pm

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Ok, good enough. Check the continuity of the temp switch in the various positions as I mentioned before. We have to prove the board is bad by deduction; that is, by proving everthing else is good.

The reason your continuity beeper didn't register on the thermistor is because dedicated continuity checkers top out at 1,000 ohms (1 Kohm). At room temp, the typical sensor has a resistance of 1200 ohms (1.2 Kohms). Continuity checkers are fine for wires and switches, nothing else. Good tools but, like anything else, you have to know their limitations.

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