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Whirlpool LSB6300LW0 FILLS THEN JUST STOPS  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Mon Jun 23rd, 2008 06:28 pm
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j1torcik
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There is power and water to the unit. It fills with water and then just sits there! This happened a few weeks ago too. I fiddled with some of the controls and while scratching my head it took off. Now it has happened again but it won't go this time. I can not hear anything at all; no clicking and nothing from the timer. It's been sitting there full of water and waiting for an answer. This thing is only 8 years old and we have never had any problems before. Whatya think?

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 Posted: Mon Jun 23rd, 2008 06:32 pm
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Suspect a flakey fill level switch first.....service pointer was put out about this....could also be a bad lid switch but only if the lid has to be shut for the unit to agitate...



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 Posted: Mon Jun 23rd, 2008 08:11 pm
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j1torcik
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With reference to the lid switch. When the machine was working properly it only agitated when the lid was down....at this state it doesn't do anything lid either up or down.

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 Posted: Mon Jun 23rd, 2008 08:20 pm
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Ok, this tells us you most likely have a bad pressure switch, bad timer or bad lid switch, you need to see where you have lost voltage to the motor thru which one of these....;)...suspect the pressure switch or lid switch first....need your ohm meter or volt meter out for the testing...



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 Posted: Mon Jun 23rd, 2008 08:29 pm
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Does the Timer advance when in this mode ?   No = probably bad Water Level Pressure Switch

If you turn the selector to Spin, will it Spin (with lid closed) ?

Last edited on Mon Jun 23rd, 2008 08:41 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Mon Jun 23rd, 2008 08:33 pm
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Ok, testingis on the agenda for tonight when i get home from work, can you tell me, is the pressure switch you refer to the same switch located on the control panel with the knob that adjusts the water level? Or is it somewhere inside the machine? I may end up tearing the house apart to locate the parts manual as a part of the job. Seems like I just ran accrost that parts manual recently too???

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 Posted: Mon Jun 23rd, 2008 08:40 pm
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Timer does not advance nor does it make even the slightest sound, whereas when it was running good you could hear it advancing quite audiblely, and no it does not spin on spin cycle with lid closed.

I thank you for your help. I don't mind getting the tools out tonight but me heading for the washing machine with the tool box scares the hell out of my wife. If I don't get it right the first time and promptly there'll be more than a washing machine on the blink......

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 Posted: Mon Jun 23rd, 2008 08:41 pm
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Pressure switch, Fill level switch, same thing, and yes it is located inside of the machine, follow the shaft the knob is slid onto and you will bump into the switch inside of the console, the wiring diagram inside of the unit till tell you what colors tell the washer when it is full of water to give power to the timer....



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 Posted: Mon Jun 23rd, 2008 08:49 pm
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edited previous message = probably bad Water Level Pressure Switch

(in the Control Panel
 

but it won't Spin either ?

Does the Timer advance in the Spin Cycle (with the lid closed) ?

now it could be an open Motor Overload (in the Motor)

You may have to do some voltage measurements...

LSB6300LW0 Wiring Sheet

 

Last edited on Mon Jun 23rd, 2008 09:09 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Tue Jun 24th, 2008 12:31 am
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Ok, I got my WL Switch out on the work bench and my DVM on it. Followed these instructions I found by searching the forum:

with the 3 terminals...... ones a common and then theres the other two. there will be continuity between the common and one terminal (lets call it "a") then if you can manage to hold the meter probes on the common and the other terminal(call it "b") blow into the pressure switch until you hear a click and then you should get continuity.


It seems I have continuity on both terminals. That means the switch is good I presume and tomorrow evening I will check the lid switch since it is to late to do tonight.

All you help has been encouraging

Last edited on Tue Jun 24th, 2008 12:47 am by j1torcik

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 Posted: Tue Jun 24th, 2008 01:30 am
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The Lid Switch won't prevent Agitation.

With the washer un-plugged, check the continuity of the Motor Overload

between the WHT/BK (pin 3) and the WHT (pin 7) on the Motor.

Last edited on Tue Jun 24th, 2008 01:32 am by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Tue Jun 24th, 2008 07:16 am
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: The Lid Switch won't prevent Agitation.

With the washer un-plugged, check the continuity of the Motor Overload

between the WHT/BK (pin 3) and the WHT (pin 7) on the Motor.



Please don't lead our apprentices astray if you don't know for sure.

Lots of these newer Whirlpool built machines with the consealed lid switch won't do anything with the lid open.

From what he has already told us, "With reference to the lid switch. When the machine was working properly it only agitated when the lid was down....at this state it doesn't do anything lid either up or down.", that is in fact the case.

More then like the lid switch is the problem, check the lid hinge screws to make sure they are all tight.  If the screws loosen up on these, (and they do), the hinge arm won't be able to activate the switch.



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 Posted: Tue Jun 24th, 2008 08:28 am
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I'm sorry...You know what...It does agitate with the lid open. I just have seldem opened the lid on that cycle and I've been thinking about it and I have poked the clothes down in the water with the lid open and it agitating (sorry to agitate you guys).

This morning I hookedup the water level switch and decided to manually check the switch by setting the timer to run and plugging in the machine. I heard an audible hum for a brief moment. When I blew into the WL switch nothing happened and I was unable to get the machine to hum again after several tries. Does this mean anything as to what to test next.

My lid switch is connected with a gray, green/white and tan wires. When I put the meter probes down in the switch with the lid closed it goes to zero on just one of the probes. I did notice that when I unplugged the lid switch and tried to jumper it (not being sure which wires to jumper accrost but trying several) I got the same hum from the machine...went on for some time...seemed to be comming from down below...Motor switch problem...maybe?????

Last edited on Tue Jun 24th, 2008 10:00 am by j1torcik

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 Posted: Tue Jun 24th, 2008 12:41 pm
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: The Lid Switch won't prevent Agitation...according to the Wiring Sheet

Last edited on Tue Jun 24th, 2008 12:42 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Tue Jun 24th, 2008 04:44 pm
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j1torcik
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I'll check the continuity of the motor overload tonight but supposing there's no continuity...what is the part that needs replacing? Is this a motor overload switch? Fuse?  ??

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 Posted: Tue Jun 24th, 2008 05:51 pm
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It's part of the Motor...

Is it the Motor that has the audible hum ?

It may be a bad Motor or the Motor Start Switch (red switch on the Motor - give it a tap with a screwdriver handle when the Motor is humming)

Or it may be a bad contact in the Timer.

 



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 Posted: Tue Jun 24th, 2008 08:13 pm
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j1torcik
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HELP!!!

I checked the continuity of the Motor Overload between the WHT/BK (pin 3) and the WHT (pin 7) on the Motor and did not get a zero reading, I think that may not be good???

Thanks for getting me down here...I'm wondering if this is why my washer fills with water and then just stops??


 Update I plugged the thing in with the cabinet removed and the hum (very sutble and quiet) is comming from the timer.

Last edited on Tue Jun 24th, 2008 08:22 pm by j1torcik

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 Posted: Wed Jun 25th, 2008 12:38 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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The Timer won't run if the Thermal Overload is open.

 

Last edited on Wed Jun 25th, 2008 12:40 am by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Sat Jun 28th, 2008 10:50 am
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j1torcik
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I put the new timer in and it did not fix the problem...

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 Posted: Sat Jun 28th, 2008 01:30 pm
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a bad Lid Switch won't prevent Agitation = not bad

a bad Water Level Pressure Switch won't prevent Spin = not bad

a bad Motor Overload will prevent Timer movement = not bad

unless you have more than one problem...

or it may be the Motor, or a bad connection somewhere.

You mave have to do some more voltage measurements

Last edited on Sat Jun 28th, 2008 01:32 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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