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ToshiroHero
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Posted: Sun Jun 22nd, 2008 20:30 |
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Stacked Unit
Does not Rock & Roll - Door Lock Light Not ON. Manually turn Knob & water comes in and exits as designed... No Lock = No rotation back n' forth
Last edited on Sun Jun 22nd, 2008 21:10 by ToshiroHero
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Trying to help
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Posted: Sun Jun 22nd, 2008 20:55 |
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| Not sure about the model number, I assume it is a Maytag Stack Neptune. When you state times out and shuts down, does this mean it runs through the entire cycle and makes it too off with out moving the drum? Or does it shut off after a few seconds? have you made sure the belt and or rear pulley are still on?
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ToshiroHero
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Sun Jun 22nd, 2008 21:27 |
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Thanks
Belt on (1st thing ck'd) After further observation >> Power on - Water fills - Water stops - Door lock light does not indicate Lock engaging. Manual turning of Knob water is coming in and exits as designed. I gather no LOCK means no rotation (for safety if nothing else) Eventually power light goes off. Knob hasn't advanced
Maytag - MHS2000AWW
SJG
Last edited on Sun Jun 22nd, 2008 21:30 by ToshiroHero
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Sun Jun 22nd, 2008 22:18 |
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Maytag Stacked Unit
Washer MHS2000AWW
edit: Gas Dryer MLG2000AWW
Parts, Diagrams, Service Manual, ect listed using dryer model number
Last edited on Sun Jun 22nd, 2008 23:38 by RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Sun Jun 22nd, 2008 22:51 |
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| Motor will still run if the unit is not locked, it just will not spin. It sounds like you have a motor board problem. Behind the washer front panel at the bottom right is a electronic board with a non replicable glass fuse on it. Take a peek at that fuse and see if she's blown. Do you have a serial number of this unit?
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ToshiroHero
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Posted: Sun Jun 22nd, 2008 23:14 |
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This peticular gas dryer has #MLG2000AWW I sure could use a schematic
Washer #MHS2000AWW
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Sun Jun 22nd, 2008 23:45 |
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Maytag Bulletin
MLG2000AWW Service Manual
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ToshiroHero
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Posted: Mon Jun 23rd, 2008 16:08 |
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Sorry for the delay
The serial # for the washer is 67825941ZF
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ToshiroHero
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Posted: Mon Jun 23rd, 2008 16:15 |
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Thanks for the service Manual Link
SJG
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ToshiroHero
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Posted: Tue Jun 24th, 2008 20:48 |
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You Wrote:
Motor will still run if the unit is not locked, it just will not spin. It sounds like you have a motor board problem. Behind the washer front panel at the bottom right is a electronic board with a non replicable glass fuse on it. Take a peek at that fuse and see if she's blown. Do you have a serial number of this unit?
The serial # for the washer is 67825941ZF
Checked the Glass fuse .......... Still ok, No melted wire inside
Any problem with water level sensing or Wax door lock??
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Posted: Wed Jun 25th, 2008 00:45 |
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| When you start the unit the on light should come on. Does it stay on, or does it drop out after 5-15 seconds? Do this in a wash section of the timer, not spin. And do you have a meter we can do some cks with? Do not worry about the door lock motor or pressure switch right now. The unit will still run and tumble even if you take them both out and lay them on the counter (wont spin and never fill, but will still run for 5-8 minutes prior to shutting off). The unit is designed that if it does not see the motor run and send a signal back to the main board in 15 seconds or so, to shut off. What we need to know is in wash fill, how long does the on light stay on.
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ToshiroHero
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Posted: Wed Jun 25th, 2008 05:10 |
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I can place it in wash and power light on NO door lock, But turn the timer manually and at end of wash to DRAIN & SPIN 1 - door lock engages -water exits but no spin.
The trouble shoot page asks to place in spin and turn on DOES DOOR LOCK LIGHT COME ON? .....YES
I do notice that the timer fails to index never moves from final spin to OFF or from wash to drain& spin1. The usually TICKING sound of the timer is not audible.
Timer defective???
I tried this sequence
Close Door
Select Light Wash
Power On
Door Lock Light-OFF
Water fills
Filling Stops
5-10 Secs - Power Light Goes Off
Thanks ... SJG
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Posted: Thu Jun 26th, 2008 01:22 |
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The unit does not lock the door in wash for about 5 minutes or so. In spin, it locks immodestly. With the last description we are now on track. Grab a meter, set it for 120VAC scale, remove the front panel but leave the door on and keep it closed.
Find the JP4 connector at your motor control board and remove it (should be red, blue, yellow and a looped white). Let it hang in the air.
Turn your timer to a Spin or wash position, does not matter.
Find the incoming L1 and Neutral to the motor board. Will be in a two or three (if three, third wire is green ground). Leaving it on the board, you will want to do a voltage test from White, to Black, while holding in the push to start button. Suggest having someone do the pushing and holding for you
With the unit in this position, do you get 120VAC to the White and Black while the push to start switch is held in?? If you do, is your motor running in a 50RPM or so one directional spin?
**For those of you that use a test cord to do the JP4 test on stack units, you can just push and hold the start button in which will deliver L1 Potential to the board input as long as you hold it in. Eliminates the need for a test cord as long as the timer cams and start switch are in good order.
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ToshiroHero
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Posted: Thu Jun 26th, 2008 02:47 |
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With the unit in this position, do you get 120VAC to the White and Black while the push to start switch is held in?? If you do, is your motor running in a 50RPM or so one directional spin?
The answer is 120 VAC ---- NO Motor activity
In addition, earlier today I Tried some things,
I've discovered if I rotate the timer manually (other than agitation/back n forth action)the other functions work then power shuts down. Press power ON &Turn timer one click or two function continues, then powers OFF. I can continue this sequence over & over again until I reach OFF on the timer. Each function works except agitation & spinning.???No motor
Also ----
The door lock latch assembly appears to function. I can observe it advancing. 15-25sec for light to come on & another 15sec for full extension to contact last micro Sw. This still leaves the unit Humming for a short time (No agitation) and then powers OFF Pressing the power button only continues the humming & 30 Sec later POWER OFF.
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Posted: Thu Jun 26th, 2008 03:13 |
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Slow down my Molson swigging friend. Now that we know exactly what it is doing, and did the JP4 test and confirmed voltage to the motor and no operation, you are in need of a Motor/Motor Control conversion kit. Again, you had the JP4 harness disconnected, Door closed, L1 and Neutral wires on the board, start switch pressed in and held, confirmed 120VAC to the Black and White wires and the motor did not turn at all. If this is the case, your part link is below. Not a bad job to do, 2-3 beers. How about switching teams and trying a Moose?
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=949491
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ToshiroHero
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Thu Jun 26th, 2008 03:29 |
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Upon viewing that Link I gather a new motor plus an extra control conversion kit is the answer to this. YES / NO
Thanks ........... As for Moose or is it MooseHead > Drink it most often when Mr. Molson is of no avail.
Do I owe you anything for your diagnosis or wait for the end result after repair.
Thanx .. SJG
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Posted: Thu Jun 26th, 2008 05:01 |
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| Contributions to the Samurai's Dojo are always excepted after satisfactory completion! As long as the test was done as described, and you had 120VAC and motor not turning, the kit I listed will hook you up brotha! Post us back with your repair, let us know how long it took so we can narrow down the time for the next DIYer. Job can be done from the front if you are careful pulling the motor down and use a piece of tape to hold belt onto main pulley. I have shared this on a few occasions, I still owe Master Stumpawitz a lunch for complete install in less then 30 minutes from the time he knocked on the consumers door. Oh to be young with long skinny arms!! Sorry Stumpy, long wiry arms!
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ToshiroHero
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Fri Jun 27th, 2008 06:31 |
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Motor & conv kit should be here Friday sometime.
Thanx .......... SJG
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ToshiroHero
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Posted: Sat Jun 28th, 2008 03:20 |
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We have Lift-off
Spinning as designed
What is the Tariff for services rendered?
Thanx ...... SJG
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Trying to help
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Posted: Sat Jun 28th, 2008 04:21 |
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The Dojo accepts any gifts it's students can afford. How long did it take you to do the repair? Would be good to know so we can advise others. You should notice the unit is not as noisy when it runs now due to the new design of the motor kit. One thing though, and it is off the motor kit topic. Your wax motor for the door lock. When you looked at it, was the plunger a different color then the body of the wax motor? Only reason I am asking is if it was an original style that tended to short and take out the main board, might be worth the $20 or so to throw one in now before it does go and take your upper control board out. You never want to replace good parts, but this is kind of a no brainer. Check out this link, it state 3000 unit, but yours is the same assembly......
http://fixitnow.com/wp/2008/04/09/maytag-neptune-mah3000-wax-motor-update/
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If we saved YOU Beer $$ today, please make a donation to our beer fund by clicking the link below to help keep this site going. I charge $135.95 PLUS PARTS to do this repair!$! http://fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm
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