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Maytag LDE9206ACE Serial 10605779sb  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sat May 31st, 2008 05:22 pm
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computerpulse
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Maytag LDE9206ACE

Serial 10605779SB

No Heat.  Checked the power in: Good

Checked the heater: Good

Checked both Fuses: Good

Checked both Hi-Limit and Thermistors: Good

Measured voltage ground to one leg of heating element: 126vac

Measured voltage ground to other let 126vac

Measured across both legs 20vac switched to heat changed, which tells me the heat and cool switch is working.  Don't have a schematic.  Seems I am missing one leg of power, but don't know where to look.  Could the problem be in the cycle switch

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 Posted: Sat May 31st, 2008 05:52 pm
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applianceman18007260692
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Follow the heater wire up to the timer and note where it goes into the timer. Remove that wire from that terminal and put one lead from your ohm meter on it. Next place your other lead on any other terminal of the timer. Advance the timer around to see if that terminal gets a reading. No reading? Burned contact replace timer or go into timer and sand down burr on contact.

Warning: Taking a part a timer is not against federal law and you won't get nuked by radioactive waste. What you will do is fix it or toss it. At any rate you gonna need another timer if all the other stuff works and you have 220 coming in to the dryer right?

Last edited on Sat May 31st, 2008 05:53 pm by applianceman18007260692



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 Posted: Sat May 31st, 2008 06:33 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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You can't test from each side of heater (or thermal fuses) to ground because they could be open and you'd be measuring one leg of each power line.

If you do measure from each side to ground, also measure the voltage across the device (should be 0 volts, but if it reads 240v it's open)

Also, the voltage measurements must be made while the motor is turning because of the Centrifugal Switch in the motor that only connects the Heating Element while it's turning.

Attachment: Page from 16008714.pdf (Downloaded 15 times)

Last edited on Sat May 31st, 2008 06:39 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Sat May 31st, 2008 11:41 pm
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Mad Mac
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computerpulse wroteMeasured voltage ground to one leg of heating element: 126vac

Measured voltage ground to other let 126vac

It's distinctly possible that's the same 126 volts you're reading through the element. I remember having to explain this to several of my fellow techs who couldn't grasp this. Suggest you check for the proper 230-ish at the outlet and take it from there.



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 Posted: Sun Jun 1st, 2008 07:17 am
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computerpulse
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Reg were you trying to give me the schematic?  Tryed downloading this and nothing. 

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 Posted: Sun Jun 1st, 2008 07:18 am
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computerpulse
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220 coming in

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 Posted: Sun Jun 1st, 2008 12:24 pm
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Trying to help
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You are going to want to check your power coming in and all your voltages under load, meaning unit running.  You do not have to worry about your thermal fuses because they are in line with your motor, if the unit runs, they are fine.  Start the unit in time dry, hi heat and check the following voltage points.

Incoming power cord at terminal block outside legs.  You must read 240VAC here with the unit running.  If you do not, you have a incoming power problem.  Since you state the unit runs, just wont heat, this is the only test you need to do here. 

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

If any of the tests below show a voltage reading of 240VAC (or whatever your incoming supply is) while the unit is running in a heat cycle, that component is bad.  Tests must be done with the unit running in a heat cycle, and the wires still on the component.  They should all be closed and give you a reading of 0VAC.

Black to Blue- 240VAC Scale

Timer Black to Yellow- 240VAC Scale

Temp switch Yellow to Red- 240VAC Scale

Cycling Tstat Red to Purple- 240VAC Scale

Hi limit Tstat- Purple to Brown-  240VAC Scale

Heater Brown to Black- 240VAC Scale

Motor Centrifugal switch- Black to Blue 240VAC Scale

 



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 Posted: Sun Jun 1st, 2008 02:20 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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computerpulse wrote: Reg were you trying to give me the schematic?  Tryed downloading this and nothing. 

yes, it's a 40Kb PDF file

 



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 Posted: Tue Jun 3rd, 2008 05:17 pm
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computerpulse
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Turned out to be the Motor Centrifical Switch

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 Posted: Tue Jun 3rd, 2008 05:45 pm
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Trying to help
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Voltage checks baby!!!:thumbsup:

 

Good hunting. 



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 Posted: Tue Jun 3rd, 2008 05:55 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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Trying to help wrote: ... They should all be closed and give you a reading of 0VAC...

... Heater Brown to Black- 240VAC Scale ... 


shouldn't the voltage across the heater read 240v ?



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 Posted: Tue Jun 3rd, 2008 06:40 pm
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Trying to help
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 If any of the tests below show a voltage reading of 240VAC (or whatever your incoming supply is) while the unit is running in a heat cycle, that component is bad.  Tests must be done with the unit running in a heat cycle, and the wires still on the component.  They should all be closed and give you a reading of 0VAC.

His was a no heat scenario.  If he read 240VAC from Brown to Black, and it was not heating................. bad element.  That is why I stated if you read 240VAC at any of the connections, that part is bad.  If he read 240VAC at any of the switch contacts, they would be open (bad).  If he read 240VAC at the heater and it was not heating (bad).  The "They should all be closed and give you a reading of 0VAC" is in regards to the switches & stats, not the load. 

 



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 Posted: Tue Jun 3rd, 2008 07:25 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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ahh, yes..  :beating:

It's easier to diagnose something if we're there, seeing (feeling) the results.



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 Posted: Thu Jun 5th, 2008 08:29 pm
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computerpulse
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All I know it was a pain in the tail.  Good 240 in, but could not find 240 anywhere else.  Finally found it on the centrifigal switch.  Unfortunetly it's on backorder.

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 Posted: Thu Jun 5th, 2008 08:29 pm
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computerpulse
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All I know it was a pain in the tail.  Good 240 in, but could not find 240 anywhere else.  Finally found it on the centrifigal switch.  Unfortunetly it's on backorder.

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 Posted: Fri Jun 6th, 2008 01:00 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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computerpulse wrote: ... Finally found it on the centrifigal switch.  Unfortunetly it's on backorder.
in stock at RC



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