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chem_sing
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Tue May 6th, 2008 23:41 |
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I have the MAH3000 and I fixed the resistor/triac/wax motor problem last year and I've not had any problems with door latch or spinning since. However, now when the washer fills and siphons the softener compartment, the water is turned on and off rapidly, which creates a series of bangs in my water pipes. Everything else is fine and the softener is eventually dispensed properly, although with the loud banging of the pipes. I searched the forum and could not find a similar problem. Does anyone know of a fix?
Thanks.
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Tue May 6th, 2008 23:52 |
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Weird. Low water pressure?
Another place to check would be the voltage to the solenoid valves, see if it's actually cycling, which would indicate a control problem. If steady voltage, then bad solenoid.
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RegUS_PatOff
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Posted: Wed May 7th, 2008 03:23 |
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My LG washer also cycles the water valve ON / OFF for the dispenser.
Do you have "water hammer arresters" (a vertical stub of pipe)? near the washer water supply pipes ?
Either built-into the plumbing or add-on:
click on picture
Connect to the washer supply at or near the washer.
This model installs at any angle or upside down.
They are filled with air and absorb the rapid on/off of water valves.
Sometimes the air inside gets "lost" (absorbed into the water).
You'll need to turn off the house main water supply.
Open an upstairs H&C water faucets, and then the hoses by the washer, to drain the water out of the pipes (and thereby, the arresters).
Then close everything back up, and turn on the house main water supply.
You'll need to purge the air out of most of the household faucets by letting them run for a few minutes.
Last edited on Wed May 7th, 2008 03:27 by RegUS_PatOff
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chem_sing
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Wed May 7th, 2008 14:57 |
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| Perhaps it is low water pressure. I was running the dishwasher at the time, and since my house is quite old (1920) the pressure drops noticeably when two faucets are open. I'll make sure the washer is the only thing drawing water next time I do a load and see if the problem still exists.
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chem_sing
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Posted: Wed May 7th, 2008 18:45 |
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| Thanks for the arrester info; I'll drop by Lowes and get a couple.
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chem_sing
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Posted: Mon May 12th, 2008 17:50 |
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| Over the weekend I ran the washer and found the following. First, the problem is not low water pressure. Second, the "hammering" is on the hot water line. I ran the washer hot/cold and when filling with hot all was fine. But when rinsing with cold, hammering of the hot line occurs. Perhaps the machine is trying to regulate the "cold" temperature and can't determine exactly how much hot water to let in? Or, I would ask, should it be letting any hot water through when cold is demanded? Perhaps this is a thermistor problem? I've yet to monitor the voltage over the valves but hope to do that soon.
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chem_sing
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Posted: Tue May 13th, 2008 16:27 |
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| The arrestors are installed and they work great. I cleaned the screens on the water valves and checked the hot/cold valve resistance and that is fine (about 900 ohms). I checked the resistance of the thermistor and it is about 40k without any water running. I ran a cycle with hot/cold and found that my "cold" is really very warm; I just don't get enough cold water mixing with the hot. I measured the thermistor resistance during the cycle (steady at 40k) but I didn't remove the harness from the control board to make the readings, so in retrospect my readings during the cycle may be meaningless. So I still have some work to do.
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chem_sing
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Posted: Tue May 13th, 2008 23:41 |
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| I pulled the water valve/thermistor assembly and put a very good DVM on the thermistor. At room temperature the resistance is 54k; ice water yields 62k; and hot water yields anywhere from 38k to 50k. I would have expected a larger range in resistance and it also took a tremendous amount of time for the resistance to change, even though I force fed water into the assembly with a syringe (there is only a small, narrow opening at the outlet). So I'm beginning to think I need a new valve assembly with a new thermistor.
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chem_sing
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Posted: Thu May 15th, 2008 17:49 |
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| After finding out the water valve/thermistor assembly is $91 for this machine, I looked for a cheaper fix. At another site someone recommended replacing the hot and cold water and timer triacs, which I did and now the water fills the dispenser smoothly as before. So, problem solved. Of course, my rinse water is still warm, even when cold is requested, but that is obviously another problem.
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chem_sing
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Posted: Thu May 29th, 2008 22:21 |
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The rinse water temperature problem would appear to be caused by the control board, so I finally bought a new board and now my Neptune runs perfectly.
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