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anyusername
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Mon May 5th, 2008 15:48 |
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Just stopped today. Press the start button and nothing. Checked the outlet with a multimeter and it's juiced, so somethings wrong with the Maytag. Checked door connections just in case.
Is replacing the motor my next step?
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certified tech group 51
Scholar of Advanced Appliantological Studies
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Posted: Mon May 5th, 2008 16:00 |
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Remove the front panel and check all of your themal fuses , one is in series with the moter windings ... no motor rotation no heat... unplug the dryer first ......... use your continuity settings on your meter, fuse will be open(no good) or closed (good)......Disconnect one terminal to test.... Do you have your wire diagram,,, in the console of the dryer..... Will show wire/parts better to see how the system is put together eletrically.... keep us posted.....
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Mon May 5th, 2008 16:33 |
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There's (2) thermal fuses on this electric dryer in series with the motor, one on the blower housing, and one on the heater cone assembly.
You can temporarilly bypass these fuses to test the air-flow out the back of the dryer with the vent disconnected and check the temperature there.
With an EMPTY load Timed Dry, it should cycle between about 135F and 155F.
If it gets too high, it can blow another (more expensive) thermal device.
Last edited on Mon May 5th, 2008 16:39 by RegUS_PatOff
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anyusername
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Tue May 6th, 2008 23:03 |
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I found the one thremal fuse on the drying vent......it looks like it's closed ( my meter shows 1, I touch the leads and then it shows 0).
Same case for the fuse on the blower unit.
Anything else to check?
Thanks
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anyusername
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Tue May 6th, 2008 23:04 |
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I found the one thremal fuse on the drying vent......it looks like it's closed ( my meter shows 1, I touch the leads and then it shows 0).
Same case for the fuse on the blower unit.
Anything else to check?
Thanks
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certified tech group 51
Scholar of Advanced Appliantological Studies
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Posted: Wed May 7th, 2008 02:29 |
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On your start button, disconnect one side, connect meter, does the switch indicate a closed switch when pushed and open when released?? (start button test)....Also, does your cylinder/Drum rotate easily? moter not binding .. (bad bearings??) My wire diagram is vague, if we could get RegUS or Pegi to get a viewable Schematic to view , you should be up and running in no time ( barring unexpected / unexplained/ highly unlikly, unreasonable problems) let us wait with baited breath.................
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anyusername
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Wed May 7th, 2008 03:32 |
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| Thanks, I checked the start switch and it looks good as well. The motor turns freely by hand, and I plugged in in and tried to turn it on (careful not to shock myself) with the drum completely out and it was still dead. Keeps looking like the motor, but if you think there is anything else let me know. The motor looks to be the most expensive part.
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Wed May 7th, 2008 04:23 |
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You'd have to do some voltage checks...
Attachment: Page from 16008714.pdf (Downloaded 6 times) Last edited on Wed May 7th, 2008 08:03 by RegUS_PatOff
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anyusername
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Posted: Wed May 7th, 2008 16:46 |
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Thanks - I found the diagram taped inside the console. Where do I need to make these measurements? Without any power, I don't know what voltage I would be measuring.
Thanks Again!
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Wed May 7th, 2008 18:50 |
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With the dryer Timer set to ON:
Door Closed: Does the ON LIGHT & the Display illuminate while the start button is pushed ?
Door Open: Does the Interior Light illuminate ?
Voltage measuements:
120v = from each side of each of the thermal fuses to a good ground connection.
Last edited on Wed May 7th, 2008 18:54 by RegUS_PatOff
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anyusername
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Wed May 7th, 2008 20:17 |
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No voltage registered between the either of the fuses and the frame of the unit in multiple spots (just wanted to make sure the ground was good.
No lights come on at any time.
What can I do next?
Thanks for all of the advice.....I hope this is pointing us in a better direction.....
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Wed May 7th, 2008 20:29 |
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voltages with the Timer set to ON ?
OK, before we go any farther, with the dryer unplugged, check to see if the terminal nuts are loose where the dryer cord connects to the dryer.
If OK, plug the dryer cord back in and check the voltage from the:
left bolt to center bolt = 120v
right bolt to center bolt = 120v
If OK, you'll have to get to the back of the Timer inside the control panel.
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anyusername
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Wed May 7th, 2008 20:48 |
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I started to check that while awaiting your response. It looks like the black wire was attached to the top of the block at one time, but now has frayed through. The white wire is connected to the nuetral (middle post) and the red wire is connected to the bottom post. Thise two wires look good and clean.
I thought all I had to do is re-connect the black wire to the top post. I did it and plugged it back in and pow! Smoke and fumes and the wire was thrown off.
I will plug it in now the way it is and check the voltages and let you know.
This looks promising.
Thanks
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anyusername
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Posted: Wed May 7th, 2008 21:02 |
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Ok something can definitely be wrong here. I have a four wire cord. Red is one of the leads, white is in the middle nuetral, and the black one is frayed and looks like it came off of the other post. Green is the ground, which is not attached to anything.
When I do what seems logical and re-attached the black wire to the seemingly correct post, it pops and smokes.
What's the next move?
Thanks
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anyusername
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Posted: Wed May 7th, 2008 21:17 |
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Well now I've either blown the fuse or the receptacle.
I still don't understand why it would pop.
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Wed May 7th, 2008 22:14 |
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On a 4-wire dryer cord,
WHITE connects to the middle terminal (disconnect strap to cabinet)
GREEN connects only to the cabinet
RED connects to right or left
BLACK connects to the other (right or left)
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Thu May 8th, 2008 01:35 |
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More on the sweet mysteries of dryer cord wiring ratcheer:
http://fixitnow.com/wp/2004/08/28/appliance-repair-revelation-the-mysteries-of-dryer-cord-wiring/
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anyusername
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Thu May 8th, 2008 01:57 |
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| Thanks Samurai. I've looked at this diagram and had it match exactly before I plugged it in and fried it. I am going to fix the fuse and maybe just clean the posts and replace the cord and terminal. There is black and corrosion on the posts. This thing is 13 years old. I'll get it cleaned up and take it from there.
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anyusername
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Sat May 17th, 2008 22:39 |
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Thanks everyone....I got it fixed by replacing the terminal. Our power cord had rusted and frayed and caused the terminal to become corroded and black as well.
Thanks Again!
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