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Kenmore88
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Fri Apr 18th, 2008 15:45 |
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My Kenmore (Kelvinator) front-loading washer is about four years old. Model number is 417.43142200.
It recently started leaking water when not in use.
The leaks are coming from somewhere INSIDE the unit - there's no leakage where the hot and cold water supply hoses attach to the rear of the washer.
I tested to see whether the leak was coming from only the hot or cold source by turning off the faucets supplying the water one at a time and waiting an hour or so to see if a puddle of water appeared. It looks like the water is coming from both, and it seems to be coming from the bottom left corner, beneath the intakes.
I have a Sears repair person scheduled for next week, but if it's something easy, I'd love to do it myself and save some money. I'm thinking of trying to remove the rear cover to see what's on the inside of those water intakes. I'd appreciate any suggestions.
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Fri Apr 18th, 2008 16:44 |
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Does it stop leaking if both hot & cold are turned off ?
It could be the main water valve # 33 or the hoses # 1 & # 3 on PDF pages 4 & 5 leading up to the dispenser valves # 36 on PDF pages 2 & 3.
click on picture
Figidaire (Kelvinator) 417.43142200 Parts Manual & Diagrams
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Kenmore88
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Fri Apr 18th, 2008 17:25 |
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Thanks for the reply!
RegUS_PatOff wrote:
Does it stop leaking if both hot & cold are turned off ?
Yes - if both hot and cold are turned off, the leak stops.
If it were the hoses, wouldn't I see water dripping down the outside of the back panel of the washer? (I don't see any now). I guess I could replace washers where the hoses attach (if there are any) and see if that helps.
Am I correct that to get to the main water valve, I'll need to remove the back panel? And how would I test for a problem with the valve - just inspect it, or will I be able to re-attach the hoses with the back panel removed?
How do I access the dispenser valves - also by removing the back panel?
Any idea, offhand, about which is the more likely part to fail?
Thanks again!
-Bob
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Fri Apr 18th, 2008 20:21 |
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I'm sorry, the hoses I referred to were the inlet hoses, but there's a hose that connects to the dispenser valves, # 44 on PDF page 2.
It looks like you can remove the back panel and reconnect the hoses.
If the main valve (or anything else) is leaking, you should be able to see it.
Last edited on Fri Apr 18th, 2008 20:28 by RegUS_PatOff
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Kenmore88
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Fri Apr 18th, 2008 20:49 |
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I removed the back, reconnected the hoses, and saw a drip from the water inlet valve #33, near where the plastic part meets the plate, and near the hot water inlet. Bingo! So that certainly seems to need replacing - or can the part be repaired?
Two other things I noticed:
1. When I turned on only the cold water supply, I didn't see the leak, while the leak from the hot side started as soon as I turned on the hot water supply. But when I tested it yesterday, I got a puddle with just the cold water on.
2. There was some water collected in the shock bracket - #32 on page 6 - on the right side as you look in from the back. I couldn't trace how it got there - I looked for a drip from thermistor hose (?) - #44 on pages 2-3 - and felt around on the drum, but couldn't find the source.
This makes me wonder if there's a second source for the leak.
At least I can replace the main valve and see what happens.
Thanks again!
-Bob
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RegUS_PatOff
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Posted: Fri Apr 18th, 2008 21:07 |
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The leak is probably all from the valve.
You could check to see if it's cracked or try tightening the (6) screws.
I don't know how it constructed, I never took one apart.
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Kenmore88
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Fri Apr 18th, 2008 21:54 |
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I didn't see any cracks, but some of the bolts were loose, particularly the ones near the hot water intake. I tightened them up with a 1/4" crescent wrench, and so far the leak seems to have stopped. Will wait and see.
I bow to you, Samurai Repair Person. This place rocks (and I've canceled the repair visit)!
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Kenmore88
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Posted: Mon May 12th, 2008 17:29 |
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Update: the leak started again a couple of days ago. It's leaking more slowly than before, but it's still a leak. I removed the back again, and it's coming from the same place. So, time to replace the inlet valve.
Any tricks to doing this? I thought I read somewhere that someone suggested replacing the spring-type hose clamp with a screw-type clamp.
Thanks in advance.
BobLast edited on Mon May 12th, 2008 17:34 by Kenmore88
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ROBBYRIG
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Posted: Mon May 12th, 2008 20:52 |
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No tricks necessary. A very easy change. Usually just a couple of 5/16 screws and changing over the supply lines and power lines.
ps: Red plug is for the hot water side.
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Kenmore88
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Posted: Tue May 13th, 2008 03:13 |
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Thanks.
Also wondering: is there a spec, or rule of thumb, for how much to tighten the hose connections when I reattach them? After tightening them a good bit with a wrench, I remembered the valve threads are just plastic. Maybe I should back 'em off a little...(?)
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AccApp
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Posted: Tue May 13th, 2008 14:12 |
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Tighten until the plastic valve cracks, then back off 1/4 turn.
Seriously, hand tight is usually sufficient, gorilla not necessary. Feel free to go a little tighter (1/16 of a turn) with a pair of pliers.
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Kenmore88
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Posted: Tue May 13th, 2008 19:14 |
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| OK - good to know that hand-tight is enough. I'd probably tightened a little more than necessary with the pliers, so I backed 'em off a little. Thanks!
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