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aberglas Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Thu Apr 10th, 2008 05:49 |
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The machine sometimes makes a horable grating noise during wash. Then often does not spin.
Turning pully by hand produces wash cycle whichever direction the pully is turned.
Tub cannot be turned, seems locked. (Did not try to manually turn the tub while turning the pully, will do.) Have pulled out rotor and inner tub, nothing jammed there.
No oil, or water leaks. Belt and plastic main pully under tub look good. Drains OK, so I assume motor turns in correct different directions (seems to when looking at it).
The pully underneath does not look like it is meant to move up or down vertically, and it does not. There is a plastic cap under the pulley, popping it off reveals a circlip, have not removed it.
Whole machine is about 2 years old, although bought through a liquidator, dubious warantee. We are in Australia, the machine is 240v.
Is there hope? Or am I up for a gear box more expensive than the machine?
Anthony
PS. Having been unable to get it to spin at all with the covers off, put it back together. Wife put a load on. No grating sound, spins more or less. But seems confused during spin. Is half working the washing agitator at the same time. Stops from time to time. Does not seem happy at all.
PPS. Don't by American made washing machines in Australia. There is a big difference between the US and Australia that I had not consisdered. Americans use a dryer, always, even in sunny California where we once lived. Australians use a solar powered clothes line. So the washing machine needs a good lint filter, which the Maytag lacks.
Last edited on Thu Apr 10th, 2008 06:11 by aberglas
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appl.tech.29501 Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

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Posted: Fri Apr 11th, 2008 01:57 |
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if the agitator is rotating back and forth like it is washing while the in the spin cycle then you have a bad transmission 
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aberglas Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Sat Apr 12th, 2008 01:02 |
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It looks like there are two parts to the transmission. Up the top is a casting that looks like it is full of gears, this whole casting spins during spin cycle.
At the bottom, just above the pully, is space for some more magic. I suspect some sort of brake that locks either the pully to the tub (for spin) or the upper casing and saft to the main machine, for wash. I'm guessing that just the brake is faulty, and so might be fixable.
All ideas welcome.
If one needs to remove the six heavy springs that hold the tub to the base, is it possible to replace them without special tools?
Anthony
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology

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Posted: Sat Apr 12th, 2008 01:54 |
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aberglas wrote:
PPS. Don't by American made washing machines in Australia. There is a big difference between the US and Australia that I had not consisdered.
Believe me, mi amigo, the Ameedican machines here are just as bad! 
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aberglas Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Sun Apr 13th, 2008 00:23 |
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My point was not that the American machines are bad period, but they have different user requirements. When you use a clothes dryer, much of the lint is removed by the dryer, especially if you use one of those lint removing cloths. But if you use the sun, then you need a good washing machine lint filter, which then needs to be cleaned regularly.
More importanlty, I am plucking up the courage to remove the pully from my half working machine. Will I end up with a bucket of strange, spring loaded bits that are impossible to reassemble? And what dark secrets will I find therein?
Also, is it possible to remove the main springs and get them back again without magic tools? They are quite stiff.
The Samurai, being wise of the world, might find my recent paper of interest. It concerns not washing machines, but lesser triffles of which I am more knowledgeable.
http://berglas.org/Articles/ImportantThatSoftwareFails/ImportantThatSoftwareFails.html
Last edited on Sun Apr 13th, 2008 00:25 by aberglas
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appl.tech.29501 Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

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Posted: Tue Apr 15th, 2008 01:40 |
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It requires a special tool to remove the springs and also some other techniques to remove the brake assembly safely.
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=455570
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aberglas Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Tue Apr 15th, 2008 02:51 |
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Thanks for that.
I'm thinking that I'll leave it alone while it is half working, although I am also concerned that the constant slipping will cause greater damage.
Any hints as to the "special techniques" required to remove the brake assembly safely would be much appreciated.
Anthony
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appl.tech.29501 Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

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Posted: Mon Apr 21st, 2008 23:14 |
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| You will need to go to the hardware store and purchase 2 bolts that are 10-24 x 1 & 1'2" long. Remove 2 of the stator plate bolts (1 from 1 side and an the opposite one). Then reinstall the bolts that you purchased from the hardware store. Then remove 1 of the original bolts next to the purchased ones. Once the plate has bottomed out on the ourchased bolts then you should be able to remove them. Just take your time and do it slowly. When reinstalling make sure you tighten the bolts in a cross pattern just like your would when you are changing a tire. Post back if you get stuck.
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Sagacious Master Appliantologist

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Posted: Wed Apr 23rd, 2008 14:14 |
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| You want the wrench tool 2203831. Cost around $23 and worth every dime. Saves time and knuckles. I scoffed at first, thinking I wouldn't use it much but its got 14 notches on it and made a bunch of money doing bearing seal jobs
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aberglas Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Tue May 27th, 2008 04:42 |
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Indeed, my transmission has siezed. Quotes for a new transmission here in Australia were $700! I suspect they don't sell many. But even if I buy a US one fo $250 + 50 freight, I doubt if it is worth my time to fix it.
Saw an ad recently someone giving away another Maytag performa for parts with a bad transmission. There was probably a reason why we got a good price on a refubished one but with only a three month warantee --- I suspect Maytag/whirlpool knew the transmissions were crook but sold them anyway.
Bought an almost new Simpson (made in oz) machine for $600. All important 5yr warantee. Modern design, scary computer system, feels light. But no transmission at all (the motor just goes back and forth). And the all important lint filter that is missing from American machines.
Anthony 
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