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Whirlpool Dryer Overheating  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Fri Jul 1st, 2005 06:03 am
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stevelion
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Our Whirpool model LER5848EQ5 Dryer overeheats; but not on every use. I opened the dryer and gave it a clean - it wasn't very dirty and the discharge was open. I noticed that the dryer is hottest when touching the top left, back corner. Very hot to the touch as are the clothing. Upon opening the unit, I noticed that the area that go hottest was above the metal tube that carries the heat to the clothing in drum.

Any ideas would be apprecited. Thermostat anyone?

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 Posted: Fri Jul 1st, 2005 03:51 pm
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Pegi
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First check the dryer vent to the outside, it if is blocked the dryer will overheat.  Then check to see if the heating element is grounded to the canister or the bracket, if it is, the element would never shut off when the timer is on even with the motor not running.  Turn the dryer to timed dry but do not start the dryer.  Open the door and watch the rear left side to see if the element comes on, glowing orange/red/  If it does with the motor not running you know this element is grounded.  If both of these check out,  you might have a bad cycling thermostat.



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 Posted: Fri Jul 1st, 2005 09:24 pm
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stevelion
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Thanks you so much for a response. I have the dryer a part. It appears that the element just heats up and does not shut-off. So I believe this may be the cycling thermostat? If so, could you tell me which of these "thermostats" is the correct part?

3387134 Thermostat, Internal-Bias
279769 Thermal, Cut-Off (Hi-Limit Thermostat)
3977767 Thermostat, 250~F (121.1~C)

This was taken from APWagner.

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 Posted: Fri Jul 1st, 2005 09:30 pm
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Pegi
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Not sure how far you have this dryer apart and running it to test this.  Did you do the turn the timer on and open the door to see if the element was on with the motor off???  You are going to have to see if the element is grounded before we can address any thermostats



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 Posted: Sat Jul 2nd, 2005 12:09 pm
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stevelion
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It was glowing red when the motor was off. The element was grounded where it passes from one side of the standoff plate to the other; I broke if off the plate, straightened everything out, and it seems to have done the trick. I'll keep an eye on it as we do our laundry today. Thank you so much for your help!

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 Posted: Thu Jul 7th, 2005 09:06 pm
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Sonwise
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I too am having a problem with overheating in my dryer ... it gets quite hot and begins making a "burning" smell after 5 minutes or so. It seems as if the element is never shutting off. I managed to dry a load today by manually switching back-and-forth between 5 minutes on permanent press / delicate and 5 minutes "air-fluff" until dry.

My dryer is a Maytag DE410. I had replaced the heating element assembly in March and it's worked fine until the other day. I assumed the problem was a thermostat, but then came across this thread. I did check the two items suggested: 1. airflow is fine, and 2. the heating element shuts off with timed dry when the door is opened as well as when the door is closed but the drum is not turning ("start" not yet pushed).

This leads me to still consider that a thermostat is the problem. Like the original poster found, it seems there are 3 thermostats listed when I search for this model:

p/n 303392 Thermostat - L140-10
p/n 304475 Thermostat - Cycling L140-20
p/n 303396 Thermostat - Hi-Limit

Would you concur that this is a thermostat problem or is further diagnosis required? If it is a thermostat, how do I know which one?

Thanks!

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 Posted: Thu Jul 7th, 2005 10:19 pm
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Pegi
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Pull the dryer out and try a load with the vent hose off to see if the problem is still there.



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 Posted: Fri Jul 8th, 2005 01:02 am
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Sonwise
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OK, I'll admit to being a little confused by this, as my airflow did seem to be good as checked at the outlet outside of my house ... but, I did just try this very thing. I pulled thte dryer from the wall, disconnected to outlet tube, and dried a load of clothes. (This was quite uncomfortable, as the temperature is 102 here today and my A/C has struggled to keep us at 86 all week -- yes another repair project).

Results were that it did not get the burning odor, but it did get too hot ... had it set on perm press and it heated to at least "regular: or higher heat. THEN, when it was on the "cool-down" part it seemed to reach its hottest of all ... it never did cool down.

Thoughts ??

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 Posted: Fri Jul 8th, 2005 01:10 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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The cycling thermostat is welded closed. Replace it.

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=2893

While you're in there, good practice dictates that you replace the hi-limit and thermal cutoff:

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=2651



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 Posted: Fri Jul 8th, 2005 02:18 am
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Sonwise
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Pegi -- Thanks for your input !! Any other comments based on what I've done and said? Do you agree with thermostat?

Exalted Grand Master of Appliantology -- thank you as well. Did you put in the part numbers for the original Whirlpool, or for my Maytag DE410? I am "guessing" that you made a quick look and missed that I am talking about the Maytag, not the Whirlpool that was originally introduced in this thread.

Thanks Again !

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 Posted: Fri Jul 8th, 2005 02:21 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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ARGH! A thread add-on. That never fails to screw me up.

I wish people would start a new thread for their particular problem. Much easier to keep things straight.



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 Posted: Fri Jul 8th, 2005 02:56 am
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Pegi
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Something is not quite right here, no thermostats come into play in the cool down cycle, there should be no power at all thru any of the heat curcuit in the cool down, but you felt the dryer was hotter at that time than when the heat was supposed to be on. Something is grounded somewhere or shorted together that should not be.  Please check your heating element to make sure there is no part of the element touching metal or any wires are melted touching metal.



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 Posted: Thu Nov 9th, 2006 04:08 pm
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allen31540
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Thanks so much! I had a dryer that I had to replace the thermal cut-off and the thermal fuse on, just to have the fuse blow again, but not before I noticed that the heating element stayed on no matter what. (Had to throw the breaker to get it off last time) After reading your thread I took element off and the element coils had a underwire from an article of clothing stuck to it. I removed it, replaced the thermal fuse, and all is well.   Thanks :D

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