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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag Neptune timer too fast Model MAH 5500 AWW |
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| Maytag Neptune timer too fast Model MAH 5500 AWW | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Sun Mar 9th, 2008 06:55 pm |
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1st Post |
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corvairdan Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I have a Maytag MAH 5500 AWH washer. Yeah! it is the demon possessed one that has a meltdown when the loor lock is malfunctions. I bought it used because it didn't work and replaced the door lock and control board components over a year ago and it has run great. Until now.... Yesterday I put a load in it and found that it was not spun. I restarted the load and watched it for a few minutes. The washer started to fill with water and then the motor started. The timer then quickly advanced throug the wash cycle to the rinse. The water pump started to remove the water then it started to fill again right away. When it got to the spin cycle it did nothing (the door lock light was on) then it went to the off cycle. After stopping at the end cycle again, the timer then advanced on to the next cycle on the dial. This would not stop unless the door was opened or the machine was unplugged. Is this problem in the timer or the control board? Do you have any suggestions on how to fix this? Thank you very much. BTW: In the summer, a Corona with lime (yeah, parrothead) and in the winter blue moon draft has been the recent choice.
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| Posted: Sun Mar 9th, 2008 08:43 pm |
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2nd Post |
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KurtiusInterupptus Sublime Master of Appliantology
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The infamous machine control brd is what supplies the voltage to the timer motor at the appropriate times- suspect a failed triac on this board. You may replace or repair, your call.
____________________ As every cockroach knows , thriving on poisons is the secret of success. |
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| Posted: Sun Mar 9th, 2008 08:54 pm |
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3rd Post |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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If you do replace the board, make sure you did not cause the failure yourself. The line relay on the board has a black and a gray wire that go to it. If you miss-wire it and put the gray wire on the terminal marked N.O. and the Black wire on Com it can blow the board in the manner yours is. The terminals are marked on the relay itself on the black Bakelite material. If you miss-wire it, it will blow the board and rapid advance the timer (board power the timer motor continuously) instead of the pulse of power every 5 minutes or so it should normally receive. I have gone on calls where it lasted a year like this, I have gone on calls where it blew it the next wash. Check er out.
____________________ If we saved YOU Beer $$ today, please make a donation to our beer fund by clicking the link below to help keep this site going. I charge $135.95 PLUS PARTS to do this repair!$! http://fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Sun Mar 9th, 2008 08:59 pm |
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4th Post |
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corvairdan Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Thanks for the advice. I suspected that it was the control board and not the timer. Any idea on how to track down the triac? I was looking at control boards on ebay. Do you know what other models might interchange with this control board? It is nice to get advice from another North Carolinian. I live near Fuquay-Varina and work at Camp Agape.
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| Posted: Sun Mar 9th, 2008 09:02 pm |
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5th Post |
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corvairdan Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Thanks, I will go and check this.
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| Posted: Sun Mar 9th, 2008 09:09 pm |
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6th Post |
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corvairdan Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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The grey wire is on com. The black wire is on nc. Is this correct?
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| Posted: Mon Mar 10th, 2008 11:13 am |
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7th Post |
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Black should be on Com Gray (the L1 feed) on NO You have them reversed.
____________________ If we saved YOU Beer $$ today, please make a donation to our beer fund by clicking the link below to help keep this site going. I charge $135.95 PLUS PARTS to do this repair!$! http://fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Mon Mar 10th, 2008 07:20 pm |
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8th Post |
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corvairdan Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Thanks. I don't know if I did this or if someone worked on it before I bought this. Anyways, do you have any ideas which triacs should be fried? I can replace them if I have some idea where to start. Or, should I look for a new board? Do you know if any other boards are compatible with this one? Dan
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| Posted: Tue Mar 11th, 2008 09:27 am |
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9th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology 
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Part link for the control board: http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=775784
____________________ Parts | FAQs | Store | Beer | Home |
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| Posted: Mon Mar 17th, 2008 01:54 am |
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10th Post |
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snoggle Master Appliantologist
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The triac you are looking for is Q3 (timer motor power). Its worth a try, but there may be other problems with the board.
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| Posted: Mon Mar 17th, 2008 10:53 pm |
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11th Post |
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corvairdan Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Thanks to everyone for all of your help. Yes, I found that Q3 had indeed been cooked. In fact, a corner of the triac had been blown off. I replaced it and the washer is running well again. Thanks again for everyone's help, Dan
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| Posted: Tue Mar 18th, 2008 06:52 pm |
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12th Post |
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KurtiusInterupptus Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Look at you!! Go Dan!!
____________________ As every cockroach knows , thriving on poisons is the secret of success. |
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| Current time is 08:13 pm | |
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