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corvairdan Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Sun Mar 9th, 2008 |
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| Posts: | 6 |
| Flavorite Brew: | corona |
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Posted: Sun Mar 9th, 2008 20:55 |
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I have a Maytag MAH 5500 AWH washer. Yeah! it is the demon possessed one that has a meltdown when the loor lock is malfunctions. I bought it used because it didn't work and replaced the door lock and control board components over a year ago and it has run great. Until now....
Yesterday I put a load in it and found that it was not spun. I restarted the load and watched it for a few minutes. The washer started to fill with water and then the motor started. The timer then quickly advanced throug the wash cycle to the rinse. The water pump started to remove the water then it started to fill again right away. When it got to the spin cycle it did nothing (the door lock light was on) then it went to the off cycle. After stopping at the end cycle again, the timer then advanced on to the next cycle on the dial. This would not stop unless the door was opened or the machine was unplugged.
Is this problem in the timer or the control board? Do you have any suggestions on how to fix this?
Thank you very much.
BTW: In the summer, a Corona with lime (yeah, parrothead) and in the winter blue moon draft has been the recent choice.
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KurtiusInterupptus Sublime Master of Appliantology
| Joined: | Fri Jan 12th, 2007 |
| Location: | Hickory, North Carolina USA |
| Posts: | 179 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Bud and free |
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Posted: Sun Mar 9th, 2008 22:43 |
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| The infamous machine control brd is what supplies the voltage to the timer motor at the appropriate times- suspect a failed triac on this board. You may replace or repair, your call.
____________________ As every cockroach knows , thriving on poisons is the secret of success.
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

| Joined: | Fri Oct 21st, 2005 |
| Location: | Georgia USA |
| Posts: | 1905 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Moosehead,Bud,Bombay Sapphire |
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Posted: Sun Mar 9th, 2008 22:54 |
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| If you do replace the board, make sure you did not cause the failure yourself. The line relay on the board has a black and a gray wire that go to it. If you miss-wire it and put the gray wire on the terminal marked N.O. and the Black wire on Com it can blow the board in the manner yours is. The terminals are marked on the relay itself on the black Bakelite material. If you miss-wire it, it will blow the board and rapid advance the timer (board power the timer motor continuously) instead of the pulse of power every 5 minutes or so it should normally receive. I have gone on calls where it lasted a year like this, I have gone on calls where it blew it the next wash. Check er out.
____________________ How did we do? If we saved YOU Beer $$ today, please make a donation to our beer fund by clicking the link below to help keep this site going. I charge $132.95 PLUS PARTS in the real world to do this repair!$!$! http://fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm
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corvairdan Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Sun Mar 9th, 2008 |
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Posted: Sun Mar 9th, 2008 22:59 |
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Thanks for the advice. I suspected that it was the control board and not the timer. Any idea on how to track down the triac? I was looking at control boards on ebay. Do you know what other models might interchange with this control board?
It is nice to get advice from another North Carolinian. I live near Fuquay-Varina and work at Camp Agape.
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corvairdan Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Sun Mar 9th, 2008 23:02 |
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Thanks, I will go and check this.
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corvairdan Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Sun Mar 9th, 2008 23:09 |
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The grey wire is on com. The black wire is on nc. Is this correct?
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Trying to help Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology

| Joined: | Fri Oct 21st, 2005 |
| Location: | Georgia USA |
| Posts: | 1905 |
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Posted: Mon Mar 10th, 2008 13:13 |
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Black should be on Com
Gray (the L1 feed) on NO
You have them reversed.
____________________ How did we do? If we saved YOU Beer $$ today, please make a donation to our beer fund by clicking the link below to help keep this site going. I charge $132.95 PLUS PARTS in the real world to do this repair!$!$! http://fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm
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corvairdan Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Mon Mar 10th, 2008 21:20 |
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Thanks. I don't know if I did this or if someone worked on it before I bought this. Anyways, do you have any ideas which triacs should be fried? I can replace them if I have some idea where to start. Or, should I look for a new board? Do you know if any other boards are compatible with this one?
Dan
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology

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Posted: Tue Mar 11th, 2008 11:27 |
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Part link for the control board:
http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=775784
____________________

Love? beer.fixitnow.com
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snoggle Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Mon Dec 3rd, 2007 |
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Posted: Mon Mar 17th, 2008 03:54 |
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| The triac you are looking for is Q3 (timer motor power). Its worth a try, but there may be other problems with the board.
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corvairdan Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Tue Mar 18th, 2008 00:53 |
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Thanks to everyone for all of your help. Yes, I found that Q3 had indeed been cooked. In fact, a corner of the triac had been blown off. I replaced it and the washer is running well again.
Thanks again for everyone's help,
Dan
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KurtiusInterupptus Sublime Master of Appliantology
| Joined: | Fri Jan 12th, 2007 |
| Location: | Hickory, North Carolina USA |
| Posts: | 179 |
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Posted: Tue Mar 18th, 2008 20:52 |
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Look at you!! Go Dan!!
____________________ As every cockroach knows , thriving on poisons is the secret of success.
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