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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Whirlpool Model LE5705XPW0 |
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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, BrntToast, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! | Page:   1 2 3 4   |
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| Whirlpool Model LE5705XPW0 | Rating: 
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| Posted: Mon Mar 10th, 2008 05:55 pm |
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41st Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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OK, the #2 Red voltage confirms the screw is a good ground. The door wires should have 120v on one side (or both if closed) which leads me to believe the timer switch contacts, (which also controls the timer motor) but you said the timer motor is running ... could be bad/ burned contacts in the timer, maybe enough for the timer to run, but when the start switch is pushed, the burned contacts can't handle the increased current.... and the timer motor would probably stop while the start button is held in. may be able to open / clean contacts on the timer click on picture  Last edited on Mon Mar 10th, 2008 06:08 pm by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Mon Mar 10th, 2008 06:52 pm |
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42nd Post |
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kentone Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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So I looked at the door leads again and I don't see 120V on them. The most I see is 38V. I also looked at the timer and checked the external contacts. Just to be sure I understand do you want me to dismantle the timer? The external contacts look good.
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| Posted: Mon Mar 10th, 2008 07:19 pm |
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43rd Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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kentone wrote: So I looked at the door leads again and I don't see 120V on them. The most I see is 38V. then the timer motor must have only 38v across it. yes, if you can dismantle it. also, did you check to see if the timer stops while holding the start button ? Last edited on Mon Mar 10th, 2008 07:22 pm by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Mon Mar 10th, 2008 07:37 pm |
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44th Post |
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kentone Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Sorry about that. I forgot to mention that the timer does continue to tick even with the starter button is depressed. I took apart the timer and the contacts look imaculate. There didn't seem to be any charring and I was able to wipe clean the little oxidation there was on the contacts. I'm going to put the timer back together unless you want me to look at something else inside the timer?
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| Posted: Mon Mar 10th, 2008 07:39 pm |
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45th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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OK, put it back together and measure the voltage across the timer motor when running, and when the start button is pressed. Last edited on Mon Mar 10th, 2008 07:39 pm by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Mon Mar 10th, 2008 07:45 pm |
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46th Post |
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kentone Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Am I doing the measuring across the leads and ground or between two leads on the timer?
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| Posted: Mon Mar 10th, 2008 07:49 pm |
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47th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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we'll start withthe voltage across the timer motor when running, and when the start button is pressed.across the two black wires on the timer motor Last edited on Mon Mar 10th, 2008 07:54 pm by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Mon Mar 10th, 2008 08:08 pm |
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48th Post |
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kentone Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Across the motor I am reading 120v whether the start button is depressed or not.
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| Posted: Mon Mar 10th, 2008 08:20 pm |
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49th Post |
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kentone Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Oh and I forgot to mention that the timer is running when I measured the voltages.
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| Posted: Mon Mar 10th, 2008 08:25 pm |
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50th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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the wiring diagram shows that the 120v side of the timer motor is connected to one side of the door switch. check each of those voltages to ground. Last edited on Mon Mar 10th, 2008 08:53 pm by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Mon Mar 10th, 2008 08:55 pm |
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51st Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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or TM on the timer to ground (120v) and BG on the timer to ground (120v) the wiring diagram shows them connected together. you could check the continuity between them with power disconnected. Last edited on Mon Mar 10th, 2008 08:56 pm by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Mon Mar 10th, 2008 09:56 pm |
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52nd Post |
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kentone Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Odd thing here. I tested on the timer across the four leads and ground and registerd ~120v except for the white lead to which I got a reading of 0v. (I also noticed the timer is a little quieter too) Then I went to read across the door leads and as I followed it back I noticed behind the bundle of wires a single green wire marked G3 had broken off a connector. I could not see where it was originally connected to but I could see that the other end connected to the top of the cabinet with a screw. I concluded that it must be ground because there is another green wire that is attached to a ground screw as well with similiar marking and read G1 that goes into the same wire bundle. I fixed this wire and connected it to ground but now all the reading keeping saying overload. The same for the door leads. So I unplugged the dryer. Should I remove that ground connection I just fixed?
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| Posted: Mon Mar 10th, 2008 10:00 pm |
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53rd Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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overload reading... do you have you meter set to read 120v volts, or do you have you meter set for ohms ? Last edited on Mon Mar 10th, 2008 10:01 pm by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Mon Mar 10th, 2008 10:07 pm |
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54th Post |
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kentone Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I went back and reset my DMM and got the proper reading again. I am getting 119.2v across the BG, Y and R leads and 0v on the white leads. The Black wire does have a connection to the BG wire and I verified that connection as well as the other black wire on the timer with the white lead.
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| Posted: Mon Mar 10th, 2008 10:12 pm |
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55th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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according to the wiring diagram, 120v BG goes to D1 on the door switch Last edited on Mon Mar 10th, 2008 10:14 pm by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Mon Mar 10th, 2008 10:27 pm |
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56th Post |
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kentone Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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The D1 (Blue) door lead I am now reading 47v whereas earlier I was seeing 38v. The D (White) door lead I am registering now at ~9v. I looked for continuity between the BG lead and the D1 lead and it failed. I followed both wires back to a bundle that was wrapped in what seems to be electric tape. So I could not verify if they are connected to one another inside the bundle.
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| Posted: Mon Mar 10th, 2008 10:30 pm |
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57th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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BG & D1 should be connected. Do the crimps on the ends of the wires look good ?
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Mon Mar 10th, 2008 10:32 pm |
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58th Post |
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kentone Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Yep the crimps looks good at either end of D1 and the BG lead. Should I cut open the electric tape looking wrapped bundle to verify that they connect to one another?
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| Posted: Mon Mar 10th, 2008 10:33 pm |
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59th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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sure, you could always re-tape them later somewhat are the BG & D1 wires the same color ? Last edited on Mon Mar 10th, 2008 10:35 pm by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Mon Mar 10th, 2008 10:41 pm |
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60th Post |
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kentone Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Yep, the BG and D1 cables are about the same color, dark blue, but BG has some black boxes that I guess makes it a little different from the others. So I'll go ahead and cut open the bundle. Should I look for anything else while I have the bundle open?
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