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Whirlpool Model LE5705XPW0  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Mon Mar 3rd, 2008 12:35 am
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kentone
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I have tested the motor and I do get 120V between the neutral and the red lead. There are two red leads that I tested against and they both get at least 120V. There are also other leads on the motor that I don't seem to register a voltage across.

What should be the next step to check?

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 Posted: Mon Mar 3rd, 2008 12:59 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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did you check the thermal fuse that Pegi mentioned ?

located on the blower housing

click on picture


 

Last edited on Mon Mar 3rd, 2008 01:01 am by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Mon Mar 3rd, 2008 10:30 am
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kentone
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Yep, I checked the thermal fuse and got continuity and the same goes for both of the thermal sensors. I also got a reading of 3k ohms for the bias heater. I have checked the door switch and can safely say that that it is in working order. I even tested the starter switch to ensure that it is working as well.

I looked at the motor and it is getting the 120V at each of the red leads when I test them acorss the black(Neutral) wire. What I have not checked is to see if the motor spins when energized. I can spin it freely when it's not energized.

Should I jump the thermal fuse just for giggles? I do get a zero out reading on my DMM when I test it.

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 Posted: Mon Mar 3rd, 2008 11:29 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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kentone wrote: I looked at the motor and it is getting the 120V at each of the red leads when I test them acorss the black(Neutral) wire. What I have not checked is to see if the motor spins when energized. I can spin it freely when it's not energized.

no need to jumper the fuse...

were you testing those motor wires at the motor while energized ?

see if the motor is running (or humming) when energized



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 Posted: Mon Mar 3rd, 2008 07:11 pm
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Skiter29

 

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jump the white fuse sometimes if you dont take a lead off the white fuse you can get a false reading pull both wires off and put them together and try to start it

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 Posted: Tue Mar 4th, 2008 02:46 pm
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kentone
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I tested the motor when energized and I did not hear any humming. I didn't try to turn the axle while it was energized though.

There are other leads on this motor as well. I'm currently looking for my card reader so I can send you a snap shot of what it looks like.

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 Posted: Tue Mar 4th, 2008 02:48 pm
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kentone
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I'm pretty sure I removed both wires on the thermal fuse but I will try again just to be sure. Just to confirm I should be able to get a zero ohm reading when I place the leads across the fuse. Correct?

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 Posted: Tue Mar 4th, 2008 03:03 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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correct



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 Posted: Wed Mar 5th, 2008 08:02 pm
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kentone
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Ok so I got the following with the leads off...

Thermal fuse..............0 ohms
Cycling thermostat.....0 ohms
Hi Limit thermostat.....0 ohms
Heating element.........0 ohms


I don't see the thermal cutout sensor unless its the same thing as the bias heater in which case I register 3kohms. If it's not the same as the bias heater then I will need additional help to locate this as that I don't see any other leads and there is nothing else I can see attached to the element canister.

As for the motor I get the 120V reading when I probe between the red and neutral wire.

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 Posted: Wed Mar 5th, 2008 08:54 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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kentone wrote: As for the motor I get the 120V reading when I probe between the red and neutral wire.


how many wires are on the motor ?

what neutral are you using ?

can you upload any pictures, yet ?

 

 



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 Posted: Wed Mar 5th, 2008 11:06 pm
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kentone
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On the left side of the motor I have three wires. A red and two black wires. The middle balck wire is the neutral and the red supply. The upper black wire going into the motor.

On the right side of the motor there are 5 wires. At the top there is a white wire paired with a yellow wire next to it. This yellow wire goes into the motor.

In the middle towards the front there is a dark blue wire that is paired with a lighter blue wire next to it. The lighter blue wire connects to a lead at the top of the motor. The darker blue wire comes in with the red wire as part of the harness.

Below that wire is the red supply wire.

I was able to get them uploaded. I hope they are ok.

Attachment: Motor wiring - -1.jpg (Downloaded 38 times)

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 Posted: Wed Mar 5th, 2008 11:34 pm
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kentone
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Second pix

Attachment: motor wiring--3.jpg (Downloaded 37 times)

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 Posted: Thu Mar 6th, 2008 12:28 am
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Skiter29

 

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looks like wire #6 could have been getting a little hot try check the inside of that motor switch could have some chared points in there

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 Posted: Sun Mar 9th, 2008 02:49 pm
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kentone
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 I opened up the motor switch and don't see any charred points. However, I did clean the points and tested to make sure that the contacts were good. I replaced the contacts as they were before and put the switch back together.

I see there is a spring mechanism that pushes the contact for contact point 5 away from contact point 6 and contacts the BK point contact. I'm guessing when energized the contact switch inside the switch is pulled away from the BK contact point and connects with contact point 6, closing the circuit between point 6 and 5.

If this is not the case then I'm not sure how contact point 6 will connect to any other points within the switch. The spring loaded mechanism sits on a plate that has it pushing the contact point 5 away from contact point 6.

What else should I try? I at a loss as to why this is not working. I even tried jumping contact point 6 to contact point BK with no success.

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 Posted: Sun Mar 9th, 2008 10:34 pm
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kentone
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Hi RegUS_PAT,

I have posted the pictures and checked the motor switch as was requested by Skiter29 but no success so far. Is there anything else I should check?

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 Posted: Sun Mar 9th, 2008 10:42 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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I'm checking...



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 Posted: Sun Mar 9th, 2008 11:55 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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check these for voltage  on the switch:

switch contacts       Normal       w/start switch pressed

4 Dark Blue                 0v                  0v

5 White                       0v                 120v

6 Black                      120v               120v


between those connections and a good ground

door switch closed, dryer timer ON cycle
 

 


Last edited on Mon Mar 10th, 2008 12:01 am by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Mon Mar 10th, 2008 02:05 pm
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kentone
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Using your table I got

switch contacts       Normal       w/start switch pressed

4 Dark Blue                 0v                  0v

5 White                       0v                  0v

6 Black                    ~25v                  0v

I was using a sheet metal screw that was screwed into the cabinet of the dryer as the ground.  I know on the back of the dryer there is a ground wire connected to a screw and that screw is screwed into the cabinet. So any bare metal or screw should conduct ground. If I did this incorrectly please let me know and I will test again.



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 Posted: Mon Mar 10th, 2008 02:35 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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check voltage (120v) # 2 Red to same screw to see if screw ground is good.

see if you can check the voltage on each side of door switch to ground.

 

Last edited on Mon Mar 10th, 2008 02:51 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Mon Mar 10th, 2008 05:39 pm
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kentone
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Recorded the below results...


Leads                         Normal       w/start switch pressed

#2 Red                            124v                  124v

Door lead White             ~13v                      0v

Door lead Blue                ~38v                    38v

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