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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > LGR8857EQO Whirlpool Gas Dryer |
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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, BrntToast, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! | Page: 1 2 3 |
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| LGR8857EQO Whirlpool Gas Dryer | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Fri Feb 29th, 2008 06:47 pm |
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1st Post |
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Petz2 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Hey Great one, Won't get no lovin till I make the dryer dry hot. Runs fine, no heat. Just throw clothes around like midwest tornado. Paid gas bill so that is not a problem. No front panel below door , can't figure out how to access heating components from the back. Neighbor say tip it upside down go in from bottom. I never like going in on the bottom What to do great SaMurai ? I hate taking clothes to laundramat to dry. $4.00 Gas say cheaper to do job at home. Is it cheaper to get new wife? Pleeeez Help Me.
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| Posted: Fri Feb 29th, 2008 07:05 pm |
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2nd Post |
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hvacdrd Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Direct from the Samurai Vault - here is how you get in (scroll down to Whilrpool), and here is how to check it out. Also check out the thermal fuse (most likely problem) accessed from the back by removing the panel.
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| Posted: Fri Feb 29th, 2008 07:56 pm |
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3rd Post |
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Petz2 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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http://s208.photobucket.com/albums/bb105/Petz2/?action=view¤t=IMG_0482.jpg http://s208.photobucket.com/albums/bb105/Petz2/?action=view¤t=IMG_0481.jpg Samurai see my back side Where is my thermal fuse great one? Last edited on Fri Feb 29th, 2008 08:01 pm by Petz2 |
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| Posted: Fri Feb 29th, 2008 09:51 pm |
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4th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Petz2 wrote: Is it cheaper to get new wife?probably not... (any pictures)? does the "glow bar" ignitor get red ? LGR8857EQ0 Wiring Diagram check the voltage across the red wires on those (2) things with the red wires on the back vents when running. (should read 0v) there's a hi-limit thermostat 205F click on picture ![]() thermal fuse 196F (not resetable) click on picture ![]() and a operating thermostat click on picture ![]() Last edited on Fri Feb 29th, 2008 10:20 pm by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Sat Mar 1st, 2008 02:53 pm |
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5th Post |
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Petz2 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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http://s208.photobucket.com/albums/bb105/Petz2/?action=view¤t=IMG_0483.jpg Samurai, Must make confession. I do not know how to check if "glow bar "ignitor is red. Also if you look at picture you may note that thermal fuse may be missing. Do you see the two prongs with nothing on them? Call appliance man several years ago for same problem. He said you really don't need a thermal fuse, just a stupid safety gadget that some liberal limp wristed bureaucrat in Washington DC thought up. Are you mad at me Samurai for endangering life of my family ? Took my multitester and touched connections where red wires hook up to thermostat and got no reading. Put prongs in AC socket and multitester is working. Help me get back in the good graces of my family so they have dry clothes again. Hookers keep hitting on me at the laundrmat.
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| Posted: Sat Mar 1st, 2008 03:04 pm |
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6th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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the voltage across the red wires on the left-hand chute should be zero (it's a hi-limit switch) check the voltage across the red wires on the right-hand chute (should be 0v) also check the voltage on each of the red wires to neutral (or a good ground) should be 120v when the timer is on glow ignitor # 65 is near the gas valve (lower left corner) Attachment: LAW0UBE2.gif (Downloaded 47 times) Last edited on Sat Mar 1st, 2008 03:15 pm by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Sat Mar 1st, 2008 03:53 pm |
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7th Post |
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Petz2 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Samurai, Nearly blew my &^%$$$% house up ! First i test operating themostat red wire of lead to red wire black lead to neutral purple wire get 120 no problem feelining really good. Then I touch red lead of multitester to high limit red to and black lead purple wire at bottom left big ass explosion, timer stop clicking, now washer not work. Grass hopper hopping all ove rthe place. Red lead of multitester showing signs of melting and all black. When you say lower left you mean facing front or back. What the hell ?
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| Posted: Sat Mar 1st, 2008 04:01 pm |
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8th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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purple wires aren't neutral.... but shouldn't matter... if your volt meter is set to volts it can't hurt anything, nor spark or melt anything, unless your meter was set to amps or your red lead touched the ground (chassis) at the same time it was on the terminal also check fuse/breaker box Last edited on Sat Mar 1st, 2008 04:15 pm by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Sat Mar 1st, 2008 04:07 pm |
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9th Post |
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Petz2 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Ok so i'm a moron, we can both agree on thaT. mETER SET TO 150 ac v rESET FUSE BOX AND WASHER DRYER sorry seem to work now. What about thermal fuse. What to do now?
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| Posted: Sat Mar 1st, 2008 04:11 pm |
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10th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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across each thermal fuse or hi-limit swicth should read 0v voltage to neutral (or ground) should read 120v (when timer is on)
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Sat Mar 1st, 2008 04:14 pm |
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11th Post |
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Petz2 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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What should I use as ground or neutral?
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| Posted: Sat Mar 1st, 2008 04:17 pm |
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12th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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nuetral wires are white, or use those handy little screws that get in the way when trying to measure voltage.
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Sat Mar 1st, 2008 04:37 pm |
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13th Post |
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Petz2 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Samurai do not laugh at little grasshoper. Ok, I plug in dryer engage timer, touch red lead to red wire of operating thermostat, black lead to screw on back and get good juice. If I unplug dryer and repeat no juice. Samurai, afraid to touch red lead to red wire of high limit thermostat because of what happened last time. Big spark scare %$#@ out of me. Hey I look in back of gas lead into dryer and see a red glow when dryer running blow big wind in my face, but then it faded out. Tell me what to do now
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| Posted: Sat Mar 1st, 2008 04:41 pm |
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14th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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using voltmeter shouldn't cause any problems unless you touched the metal case/screws at the same time when touching red lead to terminals. if the ignitor glows red, then don't have to check voltages anymore. when ignitor glows red, the flame never appears ? you could check the resistance across each coil with the power disconnected and the coils disconnected click on picture ![]() they mount on the gas valve ![]() Last edited on Sat Mar 1st, 2008 04:47 pm by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Sat Mar 1st, 2008 04:48 pm |
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15th Post |
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Petz2 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I rechecked and could not see glow this time. Should glow be constant on ? Looking though small hole on back to see glow. There are plastic covers over the red leads that connect to the high limit thermostat and they do not want to come off. Can't remove leads from hi limit thermostat. ?????????????????????????????????
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| Posted: Sat Mar 1st, 2008 04:53 pm |
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16th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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If there was a glow, there's no need to check the voltages at this time... Glow should be on at the begining of each "flame on" cycle. I have to run to the store, be back soon... Last edited on Sun Mar 2nd, 2008 11:07 am by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Sat Mar 1st, 2008 04:54 pm |
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17th Post |
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Petz2 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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OK Grasshopper grow big balls and try high limit red leads one more time. Got me good juice needle jump up high. I can see red glow inside when I turn it on and it stay on for ten seconds then fade away.
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| Posted: Sat Mar 1st, 2008 04:58 pm |
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18th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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check resistance of gas valve coils when disconnected compare to readings in wiring sheet.. gotta go be back soon..
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Sat Mar 1st, 2008 05:14 pm |
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19th Post |
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Petz2 Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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How do I get access to the gas valve coils to test them?
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| Posted: Sat Mar 1st, 2008 05:21 pm |
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20th Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Ok, sounds like either the gas has been turned off to the dryer, you have bad coils on top of the gas valve or you have a bad gas valve itself....if you are sure you have gas to the valve I would try changing the coils first, these are hard to test as they are electro/magnetic parts and do not test easily...but you can try.....do not go "Poof " again however...
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
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