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LGR8857EQO Whirlpool Gas Dryer  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sat Mar 1st, 2008 06:56 pm
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Petz2
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Ok

 

I opened the tube that blows hot air into the drier.  The igniter glows red intermittnently.  No flame.  Looks like gas valve and coils are at the front of the washer .  How di I get access, do I have to remove the drum and go in from the top?

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 Posted: Sat Mar 1st, 2008 08:58 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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I'm not sure if this applies to your model, but from one service manual:

behind front toe panel

"Using a blade screwdriver, locate and release the two toe panel clips, approximately 4” in from each side ." (top)

 



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 Posted: Sat Mar 1st, 2008 09:17 pm
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Petz2
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Ok I have the front off and have access to the coils and gas valve.

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 Posted: Sat Mar 1st, 2008 10:08 pm
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  http://applianceguru.com/view_topic.php?id=15716&forum_id=2&jump_to=92412#p92412

 

The igniter glows red at start then fades after about 10 seconds.  No flame,

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 Posted: Sat Mar 1st, 2008 10:12 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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sounds like the coils, used on many models, they go bad often..

shown in previous post w/link


dryer model number LGR8857EQ0

Last edited on Sat Mar 1st, 2008 10:14 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Sat Mar 1st, 2008 10:24 pm
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Petz2
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So what to do now great one, test the coils or roll the bones and order some from you and see what happens. 

 

If the gas isn't igniting, why don't I smell it.

 

Is the igniter supposed to glow red all the time?  What about the thermal fuse?

 

Remember, I do not have one.

Last edited on Sat Mar 1st, 2008 10:26 pm by Petz2

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 Posted: Sat Mar 1st, 2008 10:33 pm
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you could check the coils resistance, they usually go bad only when warm/hot, but your seem to be bad even when cold.

the igniter, fuse, and gas valves are in series.

it's a complex way that all 3 coils (1 coils, 1 dual coil) must operate at the right time before the gas valve will open, and continue to operate in another way to keep the valve open.

 

 

Last edited on Sat Mar 1st, 2008 10:35 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Sat Mar 1st, 2008 10:35 pm
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Petz2
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Samurai,

 

Isn't it about your bed time.  Grasshopper getting very tired.  How much are coils?  I am going to laundramat to dry kids clothes and drink a cold beer.

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 Posted: Sat Mar 1st, 2008 10:40 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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click on link (small picture of coils in previous post) page 1

we're just users/readers from all over the U.S. (and others around the world)

some of us are just retired

some of us stay up half the night (or more) 

some of us have real jobs in the morning

 

Last edited on Sun Mar 2nd, 2008 10:00 am by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Sun Mar 2nd, 2008 09:43 am
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Petz2
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Please assure me that you have more wisdom then to be up at this hour answering questions from stupid grasshoppers like me.

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 Posted: Sun Mar 2nd, 2008 10:02 am
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RegUS_PatOff
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Petz2 wrote: Please assure me that you have more wisdom then to be up at this hour answering questions from stupid grasshoppers like me.
 :playball:

Last edited on Sun Mar 2nd, 2008 11:14 am by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Sun Mar 2nd, 2008 10:15 am
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Petz2
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ROFLOL  At least I'm reasonably confident that my life will return to "normal" once this dryer is fixed.

Here is my understanding of where I'm at.One or both coils may have gone kaput.  Can I disconnect them from the gas valve and the rest of the assembly to test them for continuity ?  Someone said they are electro magnets so this is difficult.

I do not have a thermal fuse in place, could this be the problem or is it just a government mandated piece of  [url=mailto:%$#@@%]%$#@@%[/url].

Should the igniter glow red during the entire dry cycle of does it just ignite the gas at the beginning ?

What can I do to expedite the process of getting my clothes dry and assuring myself of the source of the problem is the coils.

 

Have your considered some form of therapy or moving away  from Milwaukee?  There is a whole world away from appliances you know.

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 Posted: Sun Mar 2nd, 2008 10:48 am
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thermal fuse...it's a safety thing, earlier models didn't have that one...

If you get your dryer working, you should think about replacing it. about $13

The original one went bad for a reason.

ignitor should glow at the begining of each flame cycle (flame cycles on/off every 5-10 minutes, ect)

Petz2 wrote:
Have your considered some form of therapy or moving away  from Milwaukee?  There is a whole world away from appliances you know.


moving from Milwaukee ??   :brrr:   I don't know.. are there appliances in other cities ?  :bart:

you could measure the resistance (ohms) of each part of the coils

power disconnected, coils disconnected

sometimes bad coils will appear to read "good" when cold,  but go bad when warm/hot

similar wiring diagram with coil resistances listed:

Attachment: Wiring Sheet - 3406688.png (Downloaded 22 times)

Last edited on Sun Mar 2nd, 2008 11:34 am by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Tue Mar 4th, 2008 11:15 am
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Petz2
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Ok Sam,

 

I opened up dryer front pulled out the drum, have the two coils out, how do I check them.  Local appliance place wants $40.00 for the the two coils before the tax.  Appliance store will not allow return of electrical parts.

Also, when I pull the drum out the felt thing on the backside looks pretty torn up.  Can this be replaced.  Is the seam stitched to the metal barrel ?

 

Also can't remember who belt goes around tumbler and tensioner ?

 

Pretty stupid huh

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 Posted: Tue Mar 4th, 2008 11:41 am
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set your meter to "ohms" ( about the 2k range)

coil terminals are listed on diagram and on the coils

resistance readings should be anywhere near diagram numbers.

most places don't allow return of electrical parts, but RepairClinic does (less shipping)

 



 

Last edited on Tue Mar 4th, 2008 11:44 am by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Tue Mar 4th, 2008 12:05 pm
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How do i set it to Ohms?:?

 

When i touch the two terminals of the multtester i do do not move the needle at all.

There is a red dial that says OHM adj. but nothing happens

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 Posted: Tue Mar 4th, 2008 12:08 pm
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Petz2
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OK I set it to RX1K(ohm sign), only dials up to about 400

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 Posted: Tue Mar 4th, 2008 12:50 pm
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OK Rx1 scale

touch probes together and adjust so meter deflects all the way > = 0 ohms

test coils with power & coils disconnected

Last edited on Tue Mar 4th, 2008 12:52 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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 Posted: Tue Mar 4th, 2008 01:08 pm
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Petz2
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Sam

This is what I have - I really don't know what I am doing but here it goes.

On the three prong when I touch the red lead to #3 and black to #1 it reads 500 ohms.

Red #3 black # 2 (middle prong) about 1950 Ohms

On 2 prong coil (prongs  labeled 4 and 5 ):?  there is no reading regardless of where I touch the leads.

Now what ?

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 Posted: Tue Mar 4th, 2008 01:21 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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ah.. ha..... 2 prong coil is bad

you may be able to buy just that one...



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