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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Whirlpool LHW0050PQ @#$%!!*&^%$ |
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| Whirlpool LHW0050PQ @#$%!!*&^%$ | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Sat Feb 16th, 2008 04:31 pm |
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1st Post |
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occidental tourist Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Have 4 of these washers in service. Two have come up short, so to speak. At first it appears to be problem with the door latch / door frame which has been documented here, but I pulled the door latch and have manually tripped it just after starting the machine, and then tried placing a switch across the BP1 - BP3 terminals (I think it was 1 to 3, I went with wiring diagram that shows which wires are NO and made by the switch once the bimetal unit heats). Maybe one in ten tries this method works. The rest of the time the thing won't run. This includes refusing multiple times in a row to entire diagnostic mode by starting with dials at 9 and 6 o'clock respectively and holding pre-wash button while pressing the start button. But then the 9th time out of ten the thing enters diagnostic mode and goes through every diagnostic run like we the people. So there doesn't really seem to be anything broken. I am physically making the door switch or cutting it out and the thing still won't go reliably. The door switch bimetal latch is actually live through the push button door sensor and switched on the neutral side out of the brainiac IC control. On attempted starts when gives up, it sends the neutral, the door switch bimetal does generally make on its own (although I have assisted several tries and jumped it out to make sure) and the drum turns maybe once around a couple times, then after maybe 25 seconds it drops out the neutral and of course the bimetal releases. So the brain is opening the door lock, I believe in response to lack of some input that it is ready to fly. This thing is driving me to drink (only good thing about it) and I got two of these goddamn things doing the same thing. Next time I'm going after the Fridgidaire at Lowes that actually has a real friggin timer on it with cam driven contacts. This technology been working great for 100 years, what the hell possessed them to put an IC control on a goddamn washer. Anybody have any religious experiences with these whirlpool labeled italian wonders? I have considered the semi-pro subscription to whirlpool assistance which is like $125, alot more than the small beer fund assembled here. I have 4 of these, so it might be worth it to protect the investment, but I don't know if I am going to get more sophisticated help with serious understanding of the theory of ops and what signal or lack thereof could be causing these machines to bag out. I've been fixing this stuff for 25 years and never been stumped. I've found it not worth it to repair some units but I was always able to figure out what was wrong. These are driving me crazy. If they actually end up needing brains, which I'm not convinced they do but it wouldn't be worth it at going on $300 a machine (not to mention they got a separate ic controller for the motor). Just the damn bimetal doorswitch is $89 my cost from a wholesale parts distributor who, in my experience, treats me quite fairly. The friggin washers were not much more than $500. They are a year and change out with relatively low hours so it would be good to save them. But I have a day and a half in between the two of 'em and another half day surfing the net to find diagnostic materials (thanks to appliance guru for having links -- too bad I didn't find this site first). If the whirlpool support for professionals behind servicematters.com or at least it was some link there that got me to a place where I could sign up, is good, I might take the chance. Anybody have any experience with that organization or these washers? Thanks, Brian Archibald 'Harry' Tuttle is my role model.
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| Posted: Sat Feb 16th, 2008 06:42 pm |
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2nd Post |
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jambatt Scholar of Advanced Appliantological Studies 
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Check model # again. Can't find anything under that #.
____________________ Don't take life too seriously, none of us get out alive ! |
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| Posted: Sat Feb 16th, 2008 07:46 pm |
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3rd Post |
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occidental tourist Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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definitely: LHW0050PQ here are a few links to other threads discussing the same machine using that serial number. http://www.applianceguru.com/forum2/11810.html http://www.applianceguru.com/view_topic.php?id=12079&forum_id=2&jump_to=68593 these are eurotech's relabeled whirlpool. They have had a plethora of problems and every thread I've seen on them makes me think they are really tough to diagnose. Problems come and go. That is the way it was with the first one that went down. They said it wouldn't drain, i.e. stopped mid-cycle. So I go over restart it it drains and runs fun. Then a few days later it stops mid-cycle. Then it won't start. Then it starts. The old won't stay broken problem. The door switch and frame problem seemed a plausible explanation, but I have jumped those out to no avail. It runs when it feels like. One of these posts suggest that the cycle selector switch was actually falling apart. I didn't take a real close look at mine. It wasn't obviously broken but I'm going to go take another look. It definitely has that feel of something that makes contact some times and not others. Any other thoughts would be a great help. I thought these machines were an affordable effective solution, but they have caused me untold headaches. Brian Archibald "Harry" Tuttle is my role model.
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| Posted: Sat Feb 16th, 2008 08:14 pm |
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4th Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Again, this is all I have found addressing this "goes dead" problem; CLICK HERE FOR SERVICE POINTER
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic! 
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| Posted: Sat Feb 16th, 2008 10:55 pm |
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5th Post |
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11oops Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Well, you read my other post regarding the random start/stops that turned out to be the cycle selector dial. As I mentioned there as well, once I reattached the dial and made sure it was properly aligned (stop is stop, color is color, etc) I double-checked all the other electrical connections on the wiring diagram and found three that were close to coming disconnected. Prior to that problem, I had two blown water inlet valves, which prevented the washer from running -- would return to an unlocked blinking start when it sensed it wasn't getting water. One other thing to check (from personal experience -- it sounds as though you have much more professional experience, so I'm sure I'm preaching to the choir) is that the drain pump is operational, since the washer also checks that prior to starting the cycle. As mentioned by other on my post, check for crimped, cut, or otherwise damaged pressure tube. These are from my personal experiences with the washer (which has been fantastic in the year since that last episode -- here's to ten more!). There's a link to the service manual from Pegi on my other post. Best of luck to you!
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