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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Kenmore Elite Calypso 110.22082102 stuck in rinse/spin cycle.

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Kenmore Elite Calypso 110.22082102 stuck in rinse/spin cycle.  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Tue Feb 12th, 2008 04:16 pm
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HGonz
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Please help! I have a Kenmore Calypso washer (about 5 years old) 110.22082102. It recently began having problems when it reached the rinse/spin cycle. It would start to spin but then stop with a jolt, starts making a sucking sound like it is trying to drain more water, then begin to agitate for a 3-5 seconds, then stops and tries to start the spin cycle again. It continues indefinitely in this pattern and the timer has stopped counting down. The previous cycles all work well and it agitates and spins when it has to and the water filled and drained normally.
We had a serviceman come out and he ran it through a short cycle but it did not do it. He thought it was the water pump but was not sure and would then have to change the main motor. I decided to change the pump myself with a new one and there was no change! I then decided to change the main motor myself and I tested it by starting an extended spin cycle. It worked well (very quite now). However, when we did a full run, it started doing the same thing. The next morning my wife did a load and it worked well. The second load started with the same problem. Starting and stopping, lifting lid, did not make a difference. We have to let it sit for 1-2 hours to before doing an extended spin to finish.

I found the Service Manual taped to the inside panel and ran the AUTOMATIC SERVICE DIAGNOSTICS and all ran well including the spin cycle. I then cleaned the back of the electrical panel with compressed air. I ran a full cycle and SAME PROBLEM! There is no smell of anything overheating as I am doing all with the front panel off. I am about $250 in the hole with this “fix” already.:yikes:

HGonz

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 Posted: Wed Feb 13th, 2008 01:20 am
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appl.tech.29501
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Look in your tech sheet and around the section for the automatic tests or it might be the manual tests you should see where it will show the stored fault codes before the tests begin. Write down what codes is shows unless you have already cleared them and give us a post back



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 Posted: Wed Feb 13th, 2008 11:27 pm
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HGonz
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There are no fault codes displayed at time of problem. There is a list of possible error codes provided in the tech manual, but none of these are displayed.  There is nothing in the tech notes that tell me what codes would be stored or where they would be prior to diagnostic test run; at least that I can find.

The tests I have run are:  SPIN AND DRAIN TEST and the AUTOMATIC DIAGNOSTICS.  Both of these test run fine through the nutate/drain/spine cycles.

Without fault, it runs through a full cycle fine as long as it has been sitting overnight or waiting 1-2 hours after it got stuck.

I even went as far as checking the resistance (continuity) of the drive and pump motor connections on the motor controller board (all fine).  Also checked resistance on the machine controller board for the solenoids (all fine) but was unable to get reading on the touchpad connections (I think this was a problem with my meter as the touchpad works fine).  I removed both boards and checked for rust and both were clean.

I am beging to think that it may be the machine or the motor control boards "software problem".  Question is, can the motor control board "overheat" and cause this error? I'm at a loss.

HGonz

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 Posted: Thu Feb 14th, 2008 01:13 am
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applianceman18007260692
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Go down to your local electronic supply store and buy a can of "instant freeze" It is a good diagnostic tool. What you do is wait for the failure(the can comes with a straw attachment like a WD40 does), you spray each little section of the board and what it does is cool down the part rapidly,giving you the oppourtunity to spot the defective part quickly Kimosabe and swap out the part if possible.

Attachment: chiefslacka.jpg (Downloaded 89 times)



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 Posted: Fri Feb 15th, 2008 03:24 am
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peekalum
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HGonz, my Kenmore Calypso Elite washer is about 5 years old and has the same problem as yours and it started about a week ago ....  strange.   It will go thru the wash cycle and then the motor will start  for about 1-2 seconds, stop for 1-2 seconds, and continue doing this while in the rinse cycle .... forever it seems.  The digital timer does not at advance while it is doing this.  It fails on all wash selections the same way when entering the rinse cycle.  All the time that this is happening, there isn't any diagnostic code to indicate that something is going wrong.

I would like to take my Kenmore washer apart but have not been able to get the top lid or front panel off.  The Whirlpool Calypso manual that I downloaded off the net does not really help .... and the front control section looks completely different on my Kenmore.

I suspect that somethinjg is binding ... or clogged ... or jammed ... but loose enough so that it sometimes works free; i.e., sometimes a quick wash goes thru.  Regardless of the problem, I need to get to the washer motor and internal pipes.

So, how did you get the top lid free and then remove the front panel?

Jim

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 Posted: Sun Feb 17th, 2008 12:20 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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it's going to be difficult to find an intermitting problems like this...I would check all the connectors to the motor and boards closely and even try the freeze method that Appliance man refered to. Have you changed detergents recently I believe this is an HE machine......but normally would show a fault if this was an issue.



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 Posted: Sun Feb 17th, 2008 09:38 pm
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peekalum
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I finally got the top lid off my Kenmore Calypso washer  (almost had to use a hammer to free the spring clips) and ran all of the "dance" diagnostic tests described on the enclosed tech sheets .... successfully.  I did notice some really small curved brown chips, 1/8" X 1/16", in the bottom of the tub when the cycles were done.  They almost look like pieces of a gasket.

On the previous post, there was a comment about detergents.  Over the weeks before the first washer failure, my wife started using new detergents .... some 3X concentrated liquid with extra cleaning powers, bleach equivalents, and "unique" fragrances.  Its hard to believe that this might affect the washer unless these "additives" are eating away the gaskets.

Currently, I am watching the washer with each wash attempting to narrow down the failure to either the pump or the pump motor.

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 Posted: Sun Feb 24th, 2008 11:24 pm
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peekalum
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I've run about seven loads thru my Kenmore Calypso washer, using different cycles, and the intermittent problem did not re-occur.  (See previous posts about continuous repeatative pauses during the rinse cycle)   The only difference is that I'm using a "plain" liquid detergent (Costco/Kirkland) and not my wife's 3X concentrated fancy liquids nor bleach.  Since the washer now appears to be working, I do not want to try using any of the 3X concentrated liquids just to see if it will fail again...cause I suspect that it is overloading the pump or washer motor and eating away some gaskets.  The last thing I want is to have a motor/pump/gasket failure with possible water all over the floor.

I would like to believe that the type of detergent should not matter .... but what the heck .... :?

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 Posted: Mon Feb 25th, 2008 08:57 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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yep, the 3x detergent is not for your machine, you should be using a HE detergent, the 3x will produce way too many suds fooling the machine to think that there is still water in the clothes ;)



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 Posted: Tue Feb 26th, 2008 06:24 am
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The last post was the clue .... a suds lock without the SL indication.  So to flush out the non-HE detergent from the washer,  run any cycle (eg Express Wash) without adding any detergent, until it does the stutter.  Then press Stop/Cancel and do the Drain Dance at the bottom of page 3 of the tech notes.  Turn the faucets off first and then press SET DELAY TIME->END OF CYCLE SIGNAL-> SET DELAY TIME->END OF CYCLE SIGNAL.   Then press WASH/RINSE TEMP and then EXPRESS WASH.  Press EXPRESS WASH when draining is complete.  Turn the faucets back on.

Repeat the above steps until cycle you picked runs to completion.

I had to do the above steps 4 to 5 times before the cycle I picked completed so be patient.  If your washer drain goes into a dry sink, you'll be suprised at the amount of suds that is drained out even though you added no detergent to the washer

Finally, remove all non-HE detergents from the laundry area!

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 Posted: Tue Feb 26th, 2008 01:10 pm
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HGonz
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Sorry I had not posted back.  Had computer meltdown and was out of town.  Interesting stuff about the soap issue.  I will try this to see if it works.  I did use the freeze spray method descibed by applianceman18007260692 and was able  to get it to continue and complete the cycle by "freezing" a specific component on the control board any time it got stuck.  If the soap issue does not resolve this, then I will get a new board. I will let you know.

 

HGonz:?

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 Posted: Sun Mar 2nd, 2008 05:42 pm
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peekalum
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Sad to say, but I've thrown in the towel!  :(  The washer worked for three loads (as per my last post) and then it would not do a spin and drain cycle any more and would also "stutter" in the rinse cycle and not continue.  If it is the control board, then that is a costly item....about 1/3 to 1/2 the price of a new washer and the cost is even more if I have to replace the motor....and the warrenty would only cover these "new" parts and the washer is already close to 10 years old.

Based on the above, I've opted to just bite the bullet and ordered a new washer.   It is a front loader with a 5 year warrenty and costs  about $580.00 after rebates.  This includes installation and removal of the old washer.

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 Posted: Sun Mar 2nd, 2008 11:13 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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Sounds like a good deal on the new front loader.....look at your warranty closely, none of the manufacturers give full 5 year warranties any more...usually on just the motor...maybe control board. Just be sure you understand what the warranty covers. BTW, you made the right choice by getting a new one, most washers dont last much longer than 10 years anymore. What brand did you buy?



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 Posted: Mon Mar 3rd, 2008 12:01 am
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HGonz
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Well.  I also tried the "suds washout" method to no avail.  I finally replaced the control board and it has been working great since.  I wish I had found this website before I had replaced both spin and pump motors.  I have spent about $350 + shipping for all parts.  The repair tech that first came out was going to charge me $300 to change the pump motor and he was not sure what the problem was (He seemed agitated when I sent him packing, even after paying him $45 for his visit).  Since initial cost of machine ran about $1000, I can’t complain.  I’m keeping the old pump and spin motors as back-ups.  If anyone finds themselves with similar problem, try that “instant freeze” method on the control board first….this is the easiest and cheapest component to replace on my washer brand).  Peace.

HGonz:cool:

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 Posted: Sat May 31st, 2008 02:46 am
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jun2424
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I'm having the same issue.  Which control board did you swap out? The Machine Control Board or the Motor Control Board?  Was it difficult to swap out?

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 Posted: Sat May 31st, 2008 10:59 am
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HGonz
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The Machine Control Board. Has been working great ever since.

HG

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 Posted: Mon Jun 2nd, 2008 08:23 pm
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jun2424
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Was it difficult to replace? Do I need to repair manual to repace this or is as easy as removing some connectors and screws?

Thanks in advance for all your help.

regards

Jun

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 Posted: Mon Jun 2nd, 2008 09:25 pm
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HGonz
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Easy to replace. Disconnect then reconnect. Try the "instant freeze" on the components of the board first to make sure it is the faulty one.

HGonz

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