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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Kenmore Stack Washer&Dryer Model # 110.88752793

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Kenmore Stack Washer&Dryer Model # 110.88752793  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Thu Jan 31st, 2008 07:47 pm
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willingtolearn
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The road to hell is paved with good intentions. Above washer, Kenmore Mod # 110.88752793 was not spinning water out of clothes. Read- dangerous, on a forum that it was most likely the clutch assembly since I could stop agitator and drum with slight hand pressure. Ordered clutch and replaced with little differculty. :( When I tested it once everthing was back in place drum will only spin slowly with help from my hand to start it out. The sound of the spin before the repair was less audible, now sounds "normal". What did I screw up.:yikes:

Last edited on Thu Jan 31st, 2008 07:49 pm by willingtolearn

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 Posted: Thu Jan 31st, 2008 09:15 pm
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BrntToast
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did your hands get very greasy changing the clutch?

if so did you do a good cleaning on all parts before reinstalling the new clutch?

 



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 Posted: Fri Feb 1st, 2008 08:46 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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Pull the agitator off again and check the drive block to make sure the two tabs on the spin tube are still in the notches on the drive block, (there's a good chance the notches that engage the tabs are no longer there and the spin tub is just spinning inside the drive block). Do you see any signs of aluminum shavings around the area where the agitator shaft comes out of the spin tub?.



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 Posted: Fri Feb 1st, 2008 01:08 pm
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willingtolearn
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BrntToast, Yes I did get greasy; not the first time, nor I imagine the last.

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 Posted: Fri Feb 1st, 2008 01:18 pm
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willingtolearn
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Willie, did as you instructed. Pulled of the agitator and saw no filings. Pulled the drive train off again and the bottom of the clutch housing is clean. Brake cam drive is seated in the correct hole it would appear and I can turn the assembly 1/4 tun very easily-back or forward and appears to be in correct allignment with the drive block. Plastic brake cam looks the same as when I replaced the old one with the clutch assembly. As an aside, when I was removing the old clutch the housing had lots of filings in it that also look like graphite- 1/2 teaspoon full or so. Is that the aluminum filings? I use this washer to wash alot of towels; with these continual heavy loads could the tranmission be bad? And could that explain my inability no to have the drum spin after putting in a new clutch. Thanks for the informative prompt reponse.:) 

Kevin-willingtolearn

Last edited on Fri Feb 1st, 2008 01:19 pm by willingtolearn

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 Posted: Sun Feb 3rd, 2008 02:35 am
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appl.tech.29501
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Brnt. was refering to the clutch housing. did it have grease in it along with the black dust (black dust was not what Willie was refering to, metal shavings would be under the adgitator)

Grease in the clutch housing would directly effect the spin performance, normally a bad transmission will not cause a weak spin.



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 Posted: Mon Feb 4th, 2008 11:10 am
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willingtolearn
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:shock:- Pardon my ignorance on the tongue and cheek from BrntToast. Really clutch that was replaced was not greasy- just those "shavings". When I put the new clutch in and tested the spin cycle under no load; clutch assembly spinning fast were as the tub is still spinning slow. With this being a Kenmore washer could this be as simple as a lid switch-read from other posts.

Willingtolearn.

 

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 Posted: Mon Feb 4th, 2008 11:40 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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If the tub is spinning at all then the lid switch is good. It just brakes the circuit.

The only other possibilities would be taht you have a garment stuck between the inner and out tubs which would stop the tub from turning on its own.



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 Posted: Fri Feb 8th, 2008 10:43 am
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willingtolearn
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appl.tech.29501 wrote: If the tub is spinning at all then the lid switch is good. It just brakes the circuit.

The only other possibilities would be taht you have a garment stuck between the inner and out tubs which would stop the tub from turning on its own.

appl.tech.29501,

Thanks for the help, it is nice to rule out the lid switch as a potential problem. I have looked all around the tub and have not found a garment/ towel that is obstructing the tub.

willingtolearn

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 Posted: Fri Feb 8th, 2008 11:43 pm
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Remove the adgitator again and confirm that your drive block isn't worn out...we are missing something somewhere. The drive block should look like this. If you dont see the 2 cut out tabs as in the picture below then your is bad. Here's the link

 

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=2858


Last edited on Sat Feb 9th, 2008 03:49 am by



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 Posted: Sat Feb 9th, 2008 12:34 pm
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willingtolearn
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appl.tech.29501

Thanks for the quick response- waiting for a spanner wrench I ordered- should be here in by early this next week. Thanks for your guidance. :)

Willingtolearn

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 Posted: Sat Feb 9th, 2008 12:37 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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so I take it your was bad?



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 Posted: Tue Feb 12th, 2008 03:55 pm
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willingtolearn
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appl.tech.29501- got the spanner wrench in and able to finally get the spanner nut off. After removing the top, pulled out the tub. Block drive came along. Block drive is tub- tried a few hard knockes but unable to move it. Looking at the to it wound appear that the notches that you pointed out are indeed intact. Drive shaft coming up from the transmission is greasy but metal prongs- small as they are, are intact- it would appear that this 2 fit in the drive block. - At a loss. :X The washer is question is used in a veterinary hospital and the tub cap had a nice coating of hair. Plastic outer catch tub clean??? Sorry for the delay but without the spanner wrench I think I may have had to cut of the nut- Hammer and screw driver can only go soo far.

wilingtolearn

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 Posted: Tue Feb 12th, 2008 11:51 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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ok, this is getting wierd....now you said in your first post that after the repair the spin cycle was louder? I'm starting to think that you transmission has crapped out. Usually when this happens it pretty loud. Being at a vet's office I imagine that you wash a whole lotta towels. Most like this machine isn't worth a tranny unless you can find a good used one.



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 Posted: Wed Feb 13th, 2008 06:20 pm
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willingtolearn
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Well, appl.tech.29501. The devil is in the details. When I got the clutch it said that if it is a 27" keep the blue spring which it came with in, but if the 24" use the black spring. There was no black spring for the clutch- just a green spring- well I changed the springs and now the machine is working well. Sorry for all the diagnosing in vain. I guess that is what I get for not mentioning it earlier and not assuming the green spring should be changed. Thanks for all the help.

Willingtolearn 

 

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 Posted: Fri Feb 15th, 2008 10:34 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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Yep the spring would do it every time.......glad you got it going :)



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