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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > LG Gas Dryer Propane Conversion |
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| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, BrntToast, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! | Page: 1 2 |
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| LG Gas Dryer Propane Conversion | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Wed Jan 30th, 2008 03:57 pm |
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1st Post |
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BarryKaraoke Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Most Humble Greetings Sensei! I am the proud new owner of an LG gas dryer (Model #DLG5966) and am attempting to make the conversion to propane. It has been unevntful thus far, but I have run into a snag. Sears sold me the kit with the dryer, but the instructions are obviously meant for the people who do this every day. There are four steps:
Well, I found a service manual on-line and was able to remove the front panel and gain access to the valve. It was also fairly simple to remove the NG orifice and replace with the Propane orifice. The "gotcha" is with the valve. The photo on the instructions says I need to adjust the "change valve", which appears to be a large white plastic screw sticking out of the top. According to the instructions, "Open" is Natural Gas and "Closed" is Propane. The problem is that it won't budge. It also appears to have some kind of blue liquid painted on it. (Loctite maybe?!) Anyway, the screw is plastic and I don't want to really bear down on it for fear of it breaking. I also don't understand why they would put thread locker on somethihg that might need to be adjusted in the field. Is there a trick to it? Have any of you wise repairmen come across this? I am in the home stretch and just need your humble wisdom!! Last edited on Wed Jan 30th, 2008 04:31 pm by BarryKaraoke |
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| Posted: Wed Jan 30th, 2008 04:13 pm |
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2nd Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Trying to check the service manual but that model number is for a Washer...
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
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| Posted: Wed Jan 30th, 2008 04:19 pm |
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3rd Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Pegi wrote:Trying to check the service manual but that model number is for a Washer... Must be one o' them new-fangled combination washer-dryers.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Wed Jan 30th, 2008 04:34 pm |
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4th Post |
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BarryKaraoke Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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ACK! My first post and already I have broken the Ten Commandments. I purchased both and posted the wrong one. The correct model is #DLG5966.
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| Posted: Wed Jan 30th, 2008 04:35 pm |
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5th Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Could be, however I see he edited his post with the correct dryer model number...going to check to see if it is complete....so my post makes no sense now...
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
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| Posted: Wed Jan 30th, 2008 04:39 pm |
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6th Post |
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BarryKaraoke Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I beat ya by one minute.
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| Posted: Wed Jan 30th, 2008 04:52 pm |
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7th Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Manual just shows screwing that down all of the way...no clue what that blue stuff might be??
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
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| Posted: Wed Jan 30th, 2008 04:58 pm |
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8th Post |
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BarryKaraoke Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I know! Sounds easy right? I must be doing something wrong. Maybe there is a hidden locknut or something. This is all that stands between me and dry clothes.
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| Posted: Wed Jan 30th, 2008 07:14 pm |
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9th Post |
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AccApp Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Crank it! It'll bust loose with some pressure. I was fearful with my first one as well, I don't know why they need to have this thing so tight either.
____________________ "When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Thu Jan 31st, 2008 02:49 pm |
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10th Post |
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BarryKaraoke Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Will do! Any tips on getting in there? I guess you have to use a stubby screwdriver unless you remove the drum. Such a tight fit!
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| Posted: Fri Feb 1st, 2008 11:25 am |
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11th Post |
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AccApp Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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I have this little Craftsman right-angle ratchet screwdriver with changeable tips. The big flat one does a nice job on that screw.
____________________ "When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Sat Feb 2nd, 2008 11:28 am |
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12th Post |
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BarryKaraoke Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Cool. One last question...how far down do I turn it? See the silver nut on the screw shaft? Do I screw the nut down flush or move the nut to the top and make the white screw top flush? Thanks! ![]()
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| Posted: Sat Feb 2nd, 2008 12:24 pm |
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13th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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From LG's Training Manual: "Notice there is a nut on the adjustment screw. This nut is secured to the thread with a sealing compound. The nut is pre-positioned to the place the valve would be properly adjusted for LP. It’s purpose is to provide a shoulder for positioning the adjustment screw if the dryer is converted from natural gas to propane." Attachment: Pages from DLG8388_Training Maunual.pdf (Downloaded 29 times) Last edited on Sat Feb 2nd, 2008 12:25 pm by RegUS_PatOff ____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Sat Feb 2nd, 2008 12:28 pm |
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14th Post |
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BarryKaraoke Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Perfect...that is exactly what I needed to know. You guys are fantastic. It also explains the threadlocker. It appears they put on too much as it has dripped down into the valve body as well. This may be fun. Anyway...thanks! BEST...FORUM...EVER! Last edited on Sat Feb 2nd, 2008 01:07 pm by BarryKaraoke |
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| Posted: Sat Feb 2nd, 2008 01:40 pm |
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15th Post |
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BarryKaraoke Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Well, armed with the proper tool & knowledge it took all of 60 seconds to adjust the valve. Now to do a little gas line plumbing and test!
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| Posted: Sat Feb 2nd, 2008 03:57 pm |
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16th Post |
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BarryKaraoke Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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UPDATE: OK! The gas line is hooked up, leak tested and the dryer is operational. It is definitely getting hot, but the burner sounds funny. Instead of a constant quiet "roar" like the previous dryer or my gas water heater, it sounds like it is uneven or "sputtering"...like a gas BBQ grill does when it is windy. Does this sound normal? Should I even worry about it?
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| Posted: Wed Feb 6th, 2008 12:33 pm |
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17th Post |
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AccApp Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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I have heard the noise you describe, it seems to be normal. I'd remove the top panel and have a look at the color of the flame while operating normally. (You stop proper airflow when the front panel is removed on these.) Turn off all the lights in the room and you should get an idea of how it's working. Could also be some air in the line or a bad regulator upstream.
____________________ "When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Thu Feb 19th, 2009 08:15 pm |
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18th Post |
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dwdarch Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I've read through the discussion on converting an LG DLG5966G to LP. Looks like this will save me quite a bit of time. I haven't started yet but do have one question. How do you get to the gas control valve and what all needs to come off to get there? thanks dwd
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| Posted: Thu Feb 19th, 2009 09:37 pm |
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19th Post |
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BarryKaraoke Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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You practically have to take the whole dang dryer apart! From the back you remove the plate and pop the entire top off. That gives you access so that you can remove the control panel and then the entire front panel. Then you can gain access to the valve at the bottom. BTW, months later it still makes the same sputtering noise, but no soot/CO2 or other issues. It's working great!
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| Posted: Thu Feb 19th, 2009 10:23 pm |
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20th Post |
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dwdarch Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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as long as the house is still standing your good. Thanks for the input, I can hardly wait to disassemble my new dryer. dwd
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