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Maytag washer spins, dosent oscillate

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Posted: Wed Jan 9th, 2008 09:03 pm

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JJ 109
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Maytag Atlantis MAV6300AWW

Our washer agitator does not oscillate anymore during the wash cycle, it just rotates on one direction. Not doing a good job cleaning any longer.

Last edited on Wed Jan 9th, 2008 09:51 pm by JJ 109

Posted: Thu Jan 10th, 2008 08:46 pm

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JJ 109
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any thoughts?

Posted: Fri Jan 11th, 2008 12:24 am

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appl.tech.29501
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you either have a bad agitator ar a bad transmission. try turning the top of the agitator with your hand back and forth. It sould not turn freely in both directions, it should turn freely in one direction and catch when you try to turn it in th other direction. If it's catching like it should then you have a bad transmission.

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Posted: Sun Jan 13th, 2008 01:03 pm

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JJ 109
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agitator free wheels in one direction, will lock onto the tub and spin the enrire tub/agitator assembly in the other direction.

humm

Posted: Mon Jan 14th, 2008 11:01 am

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Trying to help
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The bottom part of the agitator should agitate while the top parts ratchets and pulls clothes down. You should not be able to turn the bottom part of the agitator by hand.

Is yours locked as it should be or can you move it?

If you put the unit into spin, does it spin in the same direction that you state the tub is turning in agitate or is it the opposite way?

When you state it is just spinning in agitate, is the agitator spinning by itself or is the inner tub spinning as well during agitation?

Has anyone worked on this unit prior?

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Posted: Fri Jan 18th, 2008 08:56 pm

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JJ 109
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humm, let me investigate those questions

No one has worked on it

Posted: Sun Mar 2nd, 2008 02:25 pm

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JJ 109
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"Is yours locked as it should be or can you move it? "

The upper half of the agitator freewheels counter clockwise, and catches and turns the tub, clockwise. The lower is locked to the tub

"If you put the unit into spin, does it spin in the same direction that you state the tub is turning in agitate or is it the opposite way?"

Same

"When you state it is just spinning in agitate, is the agitator spinning by itself or is the inner tub spinning as well during agitation?"

After looking closely, It appears that the issue is that the inner tube is not locked, rather it is free to spin. The agitator is in fact oscillating, but the tub starts spinning counter clockwise, which keeps the clothes from agitating and they just spin.

So the real issue it appears is the tub is not locked during agitation

Posted: Sun Mar 2nd, 2008 02:55 pm

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Trying to help
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Your brake is not holding. Could have some oil on it (dry brake system) or some other foreign matter. The reason I asked if anyone has worked on it is because you have a component called a thrust bearing kit. It's job is to ride up and release the brake in spin, or hold it in agitate. If someone has worked on it, it is possible they added too many washers to it which will not allow it to drop down far enough to grab. If you tilt it back and look under the unit, do you see any oil under it, or in the dust cap at the bottom of the pulley?

Posted: Sun Mar 2nd, 2008 03:48 pm

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JJ 109
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no oil

Posted: Sun Mar 2nd, 2008 10:36 pm

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appl.tech.29501
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Your going to have to lean the machine over and remove the dust cap on the trally pulley (the big pulley) inspect the pulley and washers, making sure that the pulley and plastic cam isn't melted. If the washers and pulley look good then you are going to have to go into the brakes.

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Posted: Tue Mar 4th, 2008 08:31 pm

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JJ 109
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"Your going to have to lean the machine over and remove the dust cap on the trally pulley (the big pulley) inspect the pulley and washers, making sure that the pulley and plastic cam isn't melted"

Looks good, what next?

Posted: Sat Mar 8th, 2008 12:42 pm

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JJ 109
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Is this what I need?

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1032674

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1057484

One or both? It is still working (sorta) so I am trying to get parts on the way before I tear it down.

Last edited on Tue Mar 11th, 2008 09:05 am by

Posted: Mon Mar 10th, 2008 09:29 pm

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JJ 109
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hello?

Posted: Mon Mar 10th, 2008 10:00 pm

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Trying to help
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Since the stator is so cheap ($8 or so) I replace both because you already have it apart. Years ago they told you to clean the old one up with white vinegar and lightly clean with steel-wool and you would be good to go. Tried it once, got a call back on myself because it was squeaking and swore I would never get burned again.

Posted: Tue Mar 11th, 2008 02:04 am

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appl.tech.29501
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Yep, I agree with TTH, I always replace it for that same reason.

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Posted: Sun Mar 16th, 2008 02:43 pm

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JJ 109
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received parts, and started to replace.

Ran into warning that said 300lb spring. Is there a process to disassemble?

Last edited on Sun Mar 16th, 2008 04:11 pm by JJ 109

Posted: Sun Mar 16th, 2008 04:51 pm

17^th Post

Trying to help
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I have always used the tool. Some of the techs have used Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology Mr. Budget Appliance's technique listed below with success according to the posts. You will need to remove one bolt so you can bring it to your local hardware or big box store to match up the screw.

Budget Appliance Repair wrote:

You can do the job without the tool, just need to get three screws that are the same threads as the 6, 5/16" bolts holding the stator on. These three new screws have to be about 1 1/2" long.

Remove three of the original 5/16" head bolts and replace with the three longer screws, then remove the other 3 original 5/16" head bolts. Now you will gradually and evenly back-out the three long screws slowly letting the brake spring pressure off.

The brake tool cost around $100 and works very nicely also.
CLICK HERE to see and/or order the "Brake Tool"

Posted: Thu Mar 27th, 2008 09:21 pm

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JJ 109
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Well you guys did it again. Used the 1 1/2 long bolt trick and it worked great. Even better news, swapped out the brake and all is good with the washer.

I greatly appreciate your Help.

Posted: Thu Mar 27th, 2008 09:50 pm

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RTFM
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two 10-24 ( thats a bolt size) by 1-1/2" screws in opposing holes work well too

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