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Maytag Electric Dryer Mod # MDE9606AYW  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Wed Nov 14th, 2007 09:32 pm
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murphga
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Replaced the belt about a month ago (thanks for your diagrams), all was peachy.  Then this past weekend, we hear a loud ticking noise, sounds like its coming from the dial.  Next day, ticking gone (dial no longer moves during cycle), the drum is still tumbling, but no heat.

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 Posted: Wed Nov 14th, 2007 09:36 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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sounds like you have the timer set to dry in the automatic cycle, if so the timer will not advance if the dryer isn't heating. Once you have comfirmed that you have 240volts at the recepticle (check your breaker) then it's time to take the front off and lets do some checkin.....post back



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 Posted: Thu Nov 15th, 2007 09:23 pm
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murphga
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OK, back with ya'  Had to find multimeter.  Checked the four-prong outlet.  It read 240 across and 120 at each of the corners.

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 Posted: Thu Nov 15th, 2007 09:59 pm
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KurtiusInterupptus

 

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Alrighty then , let's get to troubleshootin'! Remove the front panel- 4 screws on the inside of the door opening and pop the front off. Feast your eyes on the heat element canister, bottom right side. remove one side of wiring to this part and test for continuity. If this is open , there's your prob. Next , test all thermostats and thermal fuses for continuity. Same as the element, remove wire from one side of each device to test. If any are open, you have found your problem. Let us know what you find and we'll go from there:)



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 Posted: Thu Nov 15th, 2007 11:24 pm
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murphga
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Sorry, still tearing it down.  Have a question.  A friend called who is considerably more electricalogically (as in appliantology) savvy than myself.  He has suggested that I also check the volts at the other end of the pigtail (i.e. where it connects to the dryer).  Do you agree?

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 Posted: Thu Nov 15th, 2007 11:27 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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yeah, you can check that as well, you should have 240 from side to side and 120 from each side to the middle terminal



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 Posted: Thu Nov 15th, 2007 11:52 pm
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murphga
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Yep. That checked out OK.  I'm moving on the the internal components.  Does it matter where I start?

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 Posted: Fri Nov 16th, 2007 12:07 am
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KurtiusInterupptus

 

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uhh, yeah .I would start with the element as stated in the previous post;)



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 Posted: Fri Nov 16th, 2007 10:46 pm
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murphga
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OK, I made my Beer Fund contribution, so I'm allowed to ask stupid questions (plural), right?  I'm not sure I'm checking this properly.  Here's what I did -

1.) Element Cannister - Black wire connected at bottom left, purple wire connected at bottom right.  I disconnected black wire, then touched one probe to the now-bare terminal (not the wire) and the other probe to the other terminal with the purple wire still connected.  Reading was 10.9.  I did the reverse, reconnected the black, and disconnected the purple, same reading of 10.9.

Where are the thermostats and thermal fuses?  I see two sensors on top of the heating element.  I assumed they are some kind of thermostats or temp gauges?  So I checked them also.

2.) Sensor on top left, white sensor with two grey wires connected.  I did same as above one wire off, one wire on, reading was 0.4.  Reversed, same 0.4.

3.) Sensor on top right, black sensor with two purple wires connected.  Same as above.  Both readings 0.6.

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 Posted: Fri Nov 16th, 2007 11:00 pm
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KurtiusInterupptus

 

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The stupid question is the one not asked , Murph my man. Anyhoo , your doing great! You have proved the element, high limit and heaterbox thermal fuse are all good. Let's move on to the cycling t-stat located on the blower housing. If this is OK, we'll have to check the motor centrifugal switch and timer contacts. Let us know.

 



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 Posted: Fri Nov 16th, 2007 11:14 pm
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murphga
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OK, that has four connections (there are actually five wires because the purple is a double).  What to do?  Disconnect one at a time, one probe on the bare terminal while touching the other probe to just any of the other three?

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 Posted: Fri Nov 16th, 2007 11:23 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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check the 2 outside terminals, dont worry about the others.



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 Posted: Fri Nov 16th, 2007 11:30 pm
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murphga
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Both sides read 0.6.

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 Posted: Fri Nov 16th, 2007 11:37 pm
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appl.tech.29501
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go to the control panel, remove the cover, remove the 2 big wires off of the timer and read accross those terminals with the timer set in the timed dry mode.



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 Posted: Fri Nov 16th, 2007 11:51 pm
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KurtiusInterupptus

 

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test for 240 volts, one lead at the blue 44 wire on the timer, the other at the black 33 on the element with the dryer running on time dry high heat, all wires hooked up and be very careful. what did you read?



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 Posted: Sat Nov 17th, 2007 12:15 am
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murphga
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Two big wires removed - meter (digital) stayed at 1, didn't move.  Same as with one off and one on.

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 Posted: Sat Nov 17th, 2007 12:18 am
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appl.tech.29501
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here's your fix 516801 sorry linky aint workie

repair clinic

 

Last edited on Sat Nov 17th, 2007 12:28 am by appl.tech.29501



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 Posted: Sat Nov 17th, 2007 12:23 am
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KurtiusInterupptus

 

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what are the markings on the 2 "big" wires you took off?

Appl . tech is giving you the repairclinic part # for the timer.

CLICK HERE
to order it, but you should make just a few more checks first.

Last edited on Sat Nov 17th, 2007 12:27 am by KurtiusInterupptus



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 Posted: Sat Nov 17th, 2007 12:24 am
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murphga
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If that's a link, it ain't linkin'.  If that's a part number, I assume it's the timer?

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 Posted: Sat Nov 17th, 2007 12:33 am
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murphga
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Two big wires on top of unit.

Blue wire (right side) - the only marking is the number 44

Black wire (left side) - there's a whole bunch of marking, as follows -

E49528  AWM I  14 AWG  105C  600V  - - CSA  LL29515  AMW I 105C  600V  FT1

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