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DUET GHW9200LQ - Problem with Rinse Cycle

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Posted: Wed Nov 21st, 2007 02:09 pm

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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I don't know that I should think anything's wrong based on that. Are you getting a fault code? Have you run the diagnostics test in the tech sheet that posted for you? I mean, dude, if it ain't broke, you *can't* fix it!

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Posted: Mon Nov 26th, 2007 09:07 am

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JSGatSE
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Hi.

Ran the diagnostics test this weekend on page 5 that you sent me in the PDF. All went fine, I believe. the only item I should mention is that C:05 (testing the "heater") went on for 10 minutes, and I finally just manually forwarded it to the next diagnostic test by hitting the Prewash option 2x.

So, what do you think?

Thanks again for your help.

-Scott

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Posted: Mon Nov 26th, 2007 10:30 am

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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If the washer is now running fine during normal use, then just ocntinue using it until it breaks again. You can't troubleshoot a problem that isn't actively manifesting.

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Posted: Mon Nov 26th, 2007 11:02 am

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JSGatSE
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Thanks for your quick response.

I apologize if I wasn't clear earlier, but the machine is currently "broken". Here is what happens:

I selected Rinse/Spin cycle
The countdown timer indicated the cycle would be 21 minutes. The Selector went to I, water went into the machine for about 4 or 5 seconds and then stopped.
The selector then went to II, and water went into the machine for about 45 seconds, and then stopped.
The countdown timer now says 19 minutes remaining. the Selector starts going from II -> III -> IV -> III -> II -> I ->II -> III and does not stop - it just keeps going and going. The drum is turning with the water inside during this time frame.
The timer then countdowns all the way to 01 (the entire time the drum is turning with water and the selector is just going back and forth and back and forth). It will do this forever (presumably).
After about 15 minutes of the timer showing 01 minute remaining, I hit pause/cancel, as I need to get the water out.
I then turn the knob to Drain/Sprin cycle. The selector then goes to I, stops, and puts water in for about 4 or 5 seconds.
Then, the water drains out and the drum spins and everything happens normally.

In other words, unless someone is sitting there in front of the machine at step 5 above, the cycle will last forever. I want it to work normally (ie, put clothes in, select cycle, come back at some later point in time to find that the machine has worked its magic and is sitting there waiting for me).

Does this make more sense?

Thanks,

-Scott

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Posted: Mon Nov 26th, 2007 12:12 pm

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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OK, the best I can glean based on your problem description and the scarce information in the tech sheet is that you have a bad CCU. Here's the part link:

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=940913

If you order it through that link and that doesn't fix it, you can return it for a refund.

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Posted: Wed Nov 28th, 2007 06:09 am

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JSGatSE
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great, thanks, I'll give that a shot. I'll place the order today - I'll let you know the outcome.

Thanks,

-Scott

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Posted: Sat Jan 5th, 2008 08:17 am

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JSGatSE
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OK, bad news.

After receiving the part and installing it, the washer continues to have the same problem. Namely:

I selected Rinse/Spin cycle
The countdown timer indicated the cycle would be 21 minutes. The Selector went to I, water went into the machine for about 4 or 5 seconds and then stopped.
The selector then went to II, and water went into the machine for about 45 seconds, and then stopped.
The countdown timer now says 19 minutes remaining. the Selector starts going from II -> III -> IV -> III -> II -> I ->II -> III and does not stop - it just keeps going and going. The drum is turning with the water inside during this time frame.
The timer then countdowns all the way to 01 (the entire time the drum is turning with water and the selector is just going back and forth and back and forth). It will do this forever (presumably).
After about 15 minutes of the timer showing 01 minute remaining, I hit pause/cancel, as I need to get the water out.

What should I do? The washer is only about 2.5 years old and should have a lot of live in it. Plus, when it DID work, it was great.

Thanks,

-Scott

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Posted: Sat Jan 5th, 2008 01:52 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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JSGatSE wrote: OK, I can do that - but how do I check the voltage? I live in Italy and am using a 1,500 watt transformer/converter since the washer is from my home in the USA. Is there a device I can purchase to read this voltage?

Thanks,

-Scott

Has this washer worked in Italy with that transformer before?

I'm thinking it may not be big enough for the power needed for the washer while the heater is on.

What is the make and model number of the transformer?

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Posted: Sat Jan 5th, 2008 03:22 pm

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JSGatSE
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Hi, thanks for your post.

The washer has never worked in Italy. It worked fine when we brought it from the US, and then when we went to use it here (Italy) it didn't work.

Here is the transformer I am using:

Price : US $ 49.99

VOD 1500 - HIGH VOLTAGE TRANSFORMERS

1500 Watt maximum capacity heavy-duty continuous use transformer
Converts single phase 220/240 Volts down to 110/120 Volts
One grounded outlet in front of unit (accepts 3 or 2 prong US and Euro plugs)
Hard wired with a European Shucko plug also good for Asian outlets
Built-in fuse protection
Durable design with a heavy-duty cord

Weight:

22 lbs

Dimensions(LxBxH):

8" X 9" X 7"

I also have a 2,000 Watt and a 3,000 Watt transformer I could try if you think that would make a difference.

Thanks so much for your help!
-Scott

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Posted: Sat Jan 5th, 2008 03:30 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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The washer uses a 1000 watt heater, and the rest of the washer wouldn't use much more.

That one looks OK (a REAL transformer), but you could try the larger ones, or try the washer in a "cold water only" cycle.

Last edited on Sat Jan 5th, 2008 03:32 pm by RegUS_PatOff

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Posted: Sat Jan 5th, 2008 03:49 pm

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JSGatSE
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OK, I'll give it a whirl in a cold water cycle with the 2,000 watt transformer (same brand of transformer, btw). Think that should be ok?

-Scott

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Posted: Sat Jan 5th, 2008 04:09 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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YES

PS, what DRYER are you using (if any) U.S. ? GAS, electric ?

Last edited on Sat Jan 5th, 2008 04:13 pm by RegUS_PatOff

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Posted: Sat Jan 5th, 2008 11:35 pm

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jambatt
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Just a thought, but does the transformer convert from 50 hertz European to 60 hertz US?????????? :kewl:

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Posted: Sun Jan 6th, 2008 12:21 am

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Keinokuorma
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It doesn't, but that only affects the motor speeds. The 60Hz designed motor (and possible timer) will run ca. 17% slower, but should still work.

I'm thinking, does this transformer ground one end of the secondary winding to the ground contact of its outlet, or does the output voltage float while the machine chassis would be grounded to the power network only? The floating voltage might cause interference that messes up the computer stuff.

Well hard to explain but I can once again make a haphazard hand sketch if you want one.

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Posted: Sun Jan 6th, 2008 10:32 am

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JSGatSE
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Not using a dryer - just good ol' fashion line drying....

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Posted: Sun Jan 6th, 2008 10:34 am

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JSGatSE
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Thanks for your note....not sure how it grounds, quite honestly....I just plug the transformer into my Italian outlet and then my US dryer into the transformer....does that help?

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Posted: Sun Jan 6th, 2008 12:50 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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The washer doesn't need the ground wire to run.

The ground pin is connected to the input (primary) ground pin.

The ground line is only needed for your safety, but since neither line of the transformer secondary is connected to EARTH GROUND, you shouldn't get a shock by touching EITHER output and EARTH GROUND.

PS as long as the transformer is an normal isolation transformer and not an "auto-transformer" (one, single tapped winding), nor a Variac.

Last edited on Sun Jan 6th, 2008 09:13 pm by RegUS_PatOff

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Posted: Sun Jan 6th, 2008 05:25 pm

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JSGatSE
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thanks for the explanation. To confirm, does this impact me/the washers performance (or lack thereof)?

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Posted: Sun Jan 6th, 2008 07:56 pm

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Keinokuorma
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: The washer doesn't need the ground wire to run.

The ground pin is connected to the input (primary) ground pin.

The ground line is only needed for your safety, but since neither line of the transformer secondary is connected to EARTH GROUND, you shouldn't get a shock by touching EITHER output and EARTH GROUND.
True, the ground pin isn't necessary for internal operation.

However there is a reason why I'm posting this. Back in the day one of my school mates had brought a stereo set from the US, and was using it with an adapter transformer. That did, too, have floating secondary - and the only thing that could be done to defeat interference was to change the amplifier cord to 3 wire, then ground the chassis to the earth ground, as well as ground the other secondary wire to the same spot. THE ONLY THING that helped.

You could try to do it too, ground one end of the secondary to the network ground. It will not harm anything, since even if you use the machine in the American power network directly, the ground wire is brought to the outlet from the same potential point as the neutral. You may even find that the grounding polarity affects the function.

Attachment: 230to120stepdown.jpg (Downloaded 41 times)

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Posted: Sun Jan 6th, 2008 09:10 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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JSGatSE wrote: thanks for the explanation. To confirm, does this impact me/the washers performance (or lack thereof)?
The transformer should work OK the way it is.

It shouldn't affect it. Did you try it with the 1500w and cold water cycle, and the 3000w with the heater cycle ?

Last edited on Sun Jan 6th, 2008 09:16 pm by RegUS_PatOff

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