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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Whirlpool Dryer Squeak and Rattle [ LGB6400LW0 ]

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Whirlpool Dryer Squeak and Rattle [ LGB6400LW0 ]  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Tue Sep 4th, 2007 12:25 pm
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Luciferous
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Greetings!

I have a five year-old Whirlpool gas dryer [LGB6400LW0] that is acting rather oddly, as follows:
  1. When the dryer is "cold" it will generally start, ignite, and run just fine.
  2. As it starts to warm up, a faint squeaking sound will start to be heard.
  3. Once it's completely warm, instead of igniting, something will just start rattling or vibrating inside the unit.
The louder rattling sound will continue for as long as it would normally take the burner to ignite, then stop and just blow cold air for a while.  After a minute or so, the rattle will come back for a short time when the dryer is (presumably) trying to ignite.  It'll basically continue like that for as long as you let it.

Thoughts?  I'm thinking this will be fairly obvious to you folks in the know, but I can attach a sound clip of the noise if necessary.

Thanks in advance!

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 Posted: Tue Sep 4th, 2007 12:30 pm
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Pegi
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Strange, never heard of this...the lighting of the burner when the dryer is cold but will not re-light when it has warmed up tells us you have bad coils on top of the gas valve, they will open the valve when cold but will not do so when they are hot...but I have never heard of them rattling.....see if you can tell if the noise may be coming from the coils located on top of the gas valve...



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 Posted: Tue Sep 4th, 2007 01:04 pm
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Luciferous
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Well, it does seem to be coming from the lower right corner of the unit as you're looking at the back panel, which is where the gas line goes in.  Not sure if that tells you much, though, since I'm guessing that many of the working parts are in that area.  (Haven't taken it apart yet.)

One follow-up comment... the works-when-cold theory might not be completely accurate; it's pretty cold right now, but I don't get any heat... just the rattle.  Could this still indicate bad coils?  If so, how difficult a repair is that?

Thanks for your prompt reply!

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 Posted: Tue Sep 4th, 2007 01:12 pm
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Pegi
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Am referring to the coils them selves being hot or cold, they will be hot after the first time they have opened the gas valve...if it is the coils easy to replace as they are right on top of the valve...but I have no clue about the rattle, have not ever seen this..



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 Posted: Tue Sep 4th, 2007 01:18 pm
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Luciferous
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Fair enough.  I should be able to see exactly where the rattle is coming from when I have it somewhat disassembled.

Can I get to what I need by simply removing that back panel?  (And is it as easy as removing the obvious panel screws?)

Thanks!

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 Posted: Tue Sep 4th, 2007 01:24 pm
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Pegi
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This shows the coils on the top of your gas valve, ref. # 13 and 14...

There is a square peep hole plug you can remove at the left side of the front to see what is happening in the burner assy area..



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 Posted: Tue Sep 4th, 2007 01:27 pm
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Pegi
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You will remove the front...

http://fixitnow.com/2003/11/appliance-tip-of-day-dryer-disassembly.htm



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 Posted: Tue Sep 4th, 2007 01:42 pm
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Luciferous
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Are there disassembly instructions/diagrams on this site somewhere?  Wondering if I have to go in from the front or the back.

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 Posted: Tue Sep 4th, 2007 01:59 pm
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Pegi
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I posted the link showing how to take dryers apart, you will use the WP with the lint filter at the top instructions.



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 Posted: Tue Sep 4th, 2007 02:15 pm
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Luciferous
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Sorry.... somehow missed your link when I was looking at the thread earlier.  Thanks very much.

I've got some additional information since looking through the peep hole:
  1. The loud rattling sound starts
  2. The igniter starts to glow
  3. The igniter reaches full intensity
  4. There is an audible "click"
  5. The rattle stops and the igniter winds down
Does this change your opinion of the issue at all?

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 Posted: Tue Sep 4th, 2007 02:34 pm
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Pegi
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Nope....lol....never heard of this happening, the rattle, suspect it is coming from the coils or they are loose????  Others may have heard this rattle, but normally they are silent...



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 Posted: Tue Sep 4th, 2007 04:45 pm
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Luciferous
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Success!  I just got done replacing the coils and everything seems to be working just fine.  (No rattle, repeated ignitions, etc.)  Thank you VERY much for the help!

I guess the rattle will remain a mystery, although could it have been the gas valve itself?  (Might the valve make a "rattling" noise if the system was trying to open it quickly and repeatedly?)  Just thinking that the coils might have been supplying enough juice to start the process and then shutting down.  Pure conjecture, of course... just trying to figure it out.

Later!

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 Posted: Tue Sep 4th, 2007 04:56 pm
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Pegi
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Good, glad it is working now, perhaps someone else can explain the "rattle"" :P



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 Posted: Mon Aug 23rd, 2010 04:56 pm
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Luciferous
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Three years later, almost to the day, and the coils seem to have failed again. What's funny is that I did a quick Google search on my model number to see if I could refresh my memory on what I'd done previously to fix it. What did I find in the first page of results? My thread on this board! :)

Coincidentally, the drum has developed a habit of sometimes turning slowly/jerkily or refusing to turn at all with heavier loads. I suspect I'll also have to replace the felt strip or the belt as well as the coils. I am *really* hoping not to have to replace the pulley or the motor.

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 Posted: Mon Aug 23rd, 2010 06:37 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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Luciferous wrote: Three years later, almost to the day, and the coils seem to have failed again..

How's the Vent ?

Vent should be rigid metal.
Short lengths of flexible metal may be OK, if not crimped when moving the Dryer into place.
NO plastic
NO PVC
NO screws
Foil Duct Tape is OK.
With an empty load, Timed Dry, High Heat, the vent temperature should cycle somewhere between 135F and 160F

Check / clean the Dryer Vent

Disconnect the Dryer Vent and check for good air-flow there and where it exits the house.

Check the Vent air temperature at the back of the Dryer.

If you have a Harbor Freight Store near you,

click on picture $ 4.99  sometimes on sale for $ 2.99



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 Posted: Mon Aug 23rd, 2010 06:48 pm
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Luciferous
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Thanks for the tip! I'll check that as well.

I've been meaning to install rigid duct-work for years now, but still haven't gotten around to it. Instead, I've been using that semi-rigid expandable stuff. A single eight foot piece does me just fine, and I end up with a 90 degree bend at both the top and bottom. Because it's cheap, I'll usually just replace it once every couple of years.

I'm assuming that by "no PVC", you mean for the whole run? Or at all? The stuff I buy comes with plastic "quick connect" ends... they're probably each about six inches long. Would that promote excess heat?

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 Posted: Mon Aug 23rd, 2010 06:50 pm
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Luciferous
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Picture is worth a thousand words. This is what I use:

http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?PartID=1567

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 Posted: Mon Aug 23rd, 2010 07:12 pm
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hhmm.. interesting ..

PVC causes static which will collect lint ..



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 Posted: Tue Aug 24th, 2010 12:50 pm
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Budget Appliance Repair
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RegUS_PatOff wrote: hhmm.. interesting ..

PVC causes static which will collect lint .. 

No air actually goes thru the PVC plastic end piece or if it does, only about 1" of it.

The flex metal pipe screws into the PVC adapter end then the adapter end presses onto dryer vent and vent hood exhaust.

They are so the flex vent can't get crimped off if the dryer gets shoved into the wall.



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 Posted: Tue Aug 24th, 2010 01:58 pm
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Budget Appliance Repair wrote: ...No air actually goes thru the PVC plastic
... They are so the flex vent can't get crimped off if the dryer gets shoved into the wall.

aahhh ..



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