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kruella Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Sun Aug 12th, 2007 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 6 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Bass |
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Posted: Fri Aug 31st, 2007 17:48 |
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| This machine is driving me nuts. The drain pipes are clear, the hoses are good. I've checked the height of the drain pipe as suggested. The machine starts to drain, very slowly out of the hose, if I lift the lid and put it back down, SWOOOOOOOOOOSH, the water starts draining very quickly, as it should. If I'm not there to notice the water is draining slowly, I may end up with a tub completely full of water, but the cycle is completed and the washer is off. The machine may go 4 or 5 loads and work fine. I've also noticed there is a leak when the slow drain problem is happening. The top of the pump is wet. Help!!
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Poobah Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
| Joined: | Wed Jan 18th, 2006 |
| Location: | Toler, Kentucky USA |
| Posts: | 1436 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Iced Tea |
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Posted: Fri Aug 31st, 2007 18:36 |
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| When the machine is draining slowly can you here the motor running, tub spinning? I ask this question because you say you can raise the lid and put it back down and then the water starts to swooosh. The lid switch has to be engaged for the spin cycle to work.
____________________ This is the DAY that the LORD has made, REJOICE and be glad in it.....
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kruella Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Sun Aug 12th, 2007 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 6 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Bass |
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Posted: Fri Aug 31st, 2007 19:09 |
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| I thought of the lid switch. The tub is spinning, but spinning very slowly when the water is draining slowly. I thought it almost seemed like a suction problem, like a release of a vacuum when I lift the lid. However the lid isn't air tight, so I can't figure why, when I lift the lid and put it back down the machine starts working properly.
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
| Joined: | Sat Apr 2nd, 2005 |
| Location: | Eureka, California USA |
| Posts: | 1963 |
| Flavorite Brew: | |
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Posted: Sat Sep 1st, 2007 11:32 |
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motor slide plate problem, need to remove front panel and clean and add light film of oil to glide plate and nylon motor foot.
When the machine first goes into spin and motor shift for spin direction it doesn't move well enough to give the right tension. The second start of the motor by opening and closing lid lets motor shift more to the right position and tensions the belt giving full speed spin and pump out.
If the motor doesn't slide correctly and smoothly all the way from one direction to the other then the belt will just slip making the tub and pump turn very slow.
Also check the motor pulley to make sure it hasnt' melted.
____________________ William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501
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kruella Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Sun Aug 12th, 2007 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 6 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Bass |
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Posted: Mon Sep 3rd, 2007 18:06 |
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Hi Willie, My husband wants to buy you a beer and I want to give you a kiss!! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! The machine is working great. We found another hole in the plastic outer tub. The design of this machine isn't great. The main tub is too close to the outer plastic tub. This is the second hole we've had to patch. We appreciate you answering our question and telling us what the problem was. I've hidden the sledge hammer and hopefully won't have to get it out again for a long while!!! Thanks again, Brenda
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
| Joined: | Sat Apr 2nd, 2005 |
| Location: | Eureka, California USA |
| Posts: | 1963 |
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Posted: Tue Sep 4th, 2007 11:23 |
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Very important now days that you check pockets for nails and screws.
Almost all the newer machines have plastic tubs and when a nail or screw gets down one of the spin basket holes it can make a perfect scribe and cut a plastic outer tub open.
____________________ William Burk (Willie)
Willie's Budget Appliance Repair
Eureka, CA 95501
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davejohnsonnola Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Tue Sep 23rd, 2008 |
| Location: | New Orleans, LA |
| Posts: | 6 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Dixie lager o Blackened Voodoo |
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Posted: Mon Sep 29th, 2008 18:50 |
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any suggestion for plastic outer tub repair material?
some sort of epoxy or JB Weld??
____________________ If it ain't broke....leave it the heck alone!
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Poobah Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
| Joined: | Wed Jan 18th, 2006 |
| Location: | Toler, Kentucky USA |
| Posts: | 1436 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Iced Tea |
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Posted: Wed Oct 1st, 2008 03:03 |
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| I have used a Perma-Tex (Perma-Oxy) for a few years now. I buy it at Advance Auto...comes in a blue package (5 min set time) but let it dry 24 hours before using. Lightly sand the outer tub to score it and it binds better. Also if you have a piece of plastic you can place it over the fracture to strengthen it a bit. This stuff has worked great for me over the years. Hope this helps you.
____________________ This is the DAY that the LORD has made, REJOICE and be glad in it.....
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davejohnsonnola Apprentice Appliantologist
| Joined: | Tue Sep 23rd, 2008 |
| Location: | New Orleans, LA |
| Posts: | 6 |
| Flavorite Brew: | Dixie lager o Blackened Voodoo |
| Status: |
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Posted: Wed Oct 1st, 2008 03:17 |
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Thanx!
I went with the JB WaterWeld today.
Scufffed up the surrounding area with sandpaper, it hardened in 20 minutes, I let it set six hours.
Three loads of laundry......So far so good!
____________________ If it ain't broke....leave it the heck alone!
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