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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Fisher Paykel GWL10 error code in rinse cycle

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Fisher Paykel GWL10 error code in rinse cycle  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Fri Aug 17th, 2007 12:17 am
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Pegleg98
Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
 

Joined: Sat Aug 11th, 2007
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I have a Fisher Paykel GWL10 washing machine (purchased 2001) that is stopping during the rinse cycle, sounding a warning beep every second, and displaying the following error code light sequence:

WASH           RINSE

0 X 0 0 0       0 X 0

I can't find this code in the diagnostic guide.  Can anyone help identify the culprit?

Thanks

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 Posted: Sat Aug 18th, 2007 02:08 am
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jeffhoward



Joined: Sat Jul 30th, 2005
Location: Warriors Mark, Pennsylvania USA
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If the fault code you listed is correct, it translates to binary number of 66.  Fault code 66 says. "Motor controller has detected a problem with the pressure transducer. Pressure transducer frequency out of range >90kHz".  Primary source: Motor Controller, Action: Replace motor control module. 

This is your main control board mounted in the plastic housing under the control panel. 

It sounds like your control board is having trouble decting that the proper water level is being achieved in the washer.  Find the clear plastic hose that comes from the motor control module to the tub.  Make sure there is no dirt or foreign material blocking the hose where it attaches to the tub.  If that doesn't help you might have to replace the control board.

Good luck.

 

 



____________________
Divers do it deeper stay down longer and come up wetter.
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 Posted: Sat Aug 18th, 2007 01:24 pm
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Pegleg98
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Thanks.  The good news is the pressure transducer and hose are fine......the bad news is the motor controller went south.  In doing a lot more research at many other message boards it turns out that burned motor controllers is a VERY COMMON problem with FP washers; usually occurring within the first 5 years of ownership (any buyers out there - beware).  The machine uses less water & detergent than the average conventional top loader, but how EcoSmart is it with a life span of 5-6 years????  EcoSham is more like it, but I digress.

The typical causes of the fried controller are 1) the water pump (from empirical evidence on the web this seems to be the most likely culprit), 2) diverter valve, or 3) a leaking shaft seal allowing water to corrode the motor windings increasing the electrical resistance/draw.  It's hard to believe that FP did not engineer some type of overvoltage protection for a board whose cost is in the neighborhood of $300 - and that's before the added cost of a service call (no offense intended to the esteemed members of this appliance dojo).

Anyway, the shaft seal was still intact & the motor coil was okay (thank God for small favors), which leads me to suspect the water pump and/or diverter valve.  I was able to pick those last 2 items up on eBay, but that still leaves me short 1 motor controller (P/N 426930) and a few extra shaft seals (better safe than fried, again).

I would like to end this sad tale..............

Can anyone direct me to a FP supplier where I can get the controller and seals?

I asked FP, but they have not answered any of my emails.  Apparently nobody's home.  August IS a nice vacation month.

Thanks to anyone that can help.  

PS - Feel free to recommend a quality washing machine.  I miss my old Whirlpool that lasted 18 years. 

Last edited on Sat Aug 18th, 2007 11:10 pm by Pegleg98

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 Posted: Sun Aug 19th, 2007 08:58 pm
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jeffhoward



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Dear Pegleg

You should have written again before ordering the diverter valve and pump. The diverter valve could have been tested with a simple 110v jumper cord.  Just place it on the wax motor and see if the plunger comes out and shifts the rubber diverter inside the valve.  The pump may be a little more difficult to test if it is the 220v type which I believe is found in the GWL10 series.  I wouldn't waste my money on the seals.  I've never replaced one in a F&P machine.  As for purchasing the controller, I don't think F&P has any distributors in the USA.  I do warranty work for them and buy directly from them out of their California office.

Jeff



____________________
Divers do it deeper stay down longer and come up wetter.
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 Posted: Sun Aug 19th, 2007 10:03 pm
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Pegleg98
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I checked the diverter valve with a jumper, it was shot.  I opened the unit to look at the actuator/piston.  The contacts were pretty corroded. 

Since you do work for them, you must know how difficult it is to get parts.  Since I saw the pump on eBay, I took this as a sign from God and picked it up.  I didn't check the old pump, but the new pump spins MUCH easier.  I think the writing was on the wall for that, as well.

Thanks for the efforts.  Knowing what I know now, I'm going back to electromechanical machines.

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