Kenmore Direct Drive - 80 Series - Model # 11021182000 - Ser: CK5007342 - The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum - Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help - ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums

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Kenmore Direct Drive - 80 Series - Model # 11021182000 - Ser: CK5007342

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Draco5656
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Posted: Wed Jun 27th, 2007 01:09

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After the spin cycle stops and the drum starts to slow down there is a very loud banging noise that vibrates. i can not tell where this is coming from. The faster the drum is spinning the closer together the bangs are. The banging gets farther apart when the drum slows down. During the actual spin cycle there is no banging, it only happens when the cycle is over and the drum slows down. The load is not unbalanced and it happens even when there are no clothes in the washer.

I hope that I was able to explain the problem. Please let me know what is causing this and how to fix it.

Thanks!

Stephen

Pegi
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Posted: Wed Jun 27th, 2007 01:18

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Sounds like the drive block that the spin basket sits on is wallowed out and is riding on the tabs of the spin tube, most likely damaging the tabs....remove the agitator and spin basket to take a look at the drive block after removing the case and the splash guard on top of the tub.

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Pegi
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Posted: Wed Jun 27th, 2007 01:19

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http://fixitnow.com/2003/08/mailbag-opening-whirlpool-or-kenmore.htm

Draco5656
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Posted: Wed Jun 27th, 2007 01:28

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Thanks! I removed everything except the agitator and spin basket. I need to get a socket wrench out of my shed to undo the bolt holding it on, then I will check to see if that is what the problem is.

I will let you know.

Thanks again!

Draco5656
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Posted: Wed Jun 27th, 2007 23:54

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I took off the agitator but I can not figure out how to take off the basket. Please let me know what you think. I have attatched a picture and a second one I will post in a sec.

Attachment: Photo-0043.jpg (Downloaded 55 times)

Draco5656
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Posted: Wed Jun 27th, 2007 23:56

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closer look

Attachment: Photo-0042.jpg (Downloaded 55 times)

Poobah
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Posted: Thu Jun 28th, 2007 00:26

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Their is a nut (piece that looks to have 4 notches on it) that screws down onto the drive block, you need a spanner wrench but in lu of that a screwdriver or chisel will work. Put it in the slot and tap with a hammer and it should unscrew, then you will be able to remove the tub. Honestly from the looks of it that thing is as clean as I've ever seen. Did you clean it up before the pic? If so was their any metal shavings around the top? Can you see what looks to be the 2 tabs Pegi spoke of coming up inside the drive block across from one another.

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Pegi
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Posted: Thu Jun 28th, 2007 00:43

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Not sure but I am not seeing the two shiny sliver tabs in the two slots in the drive block that should be showing.....the tabs of the spin tube???

Pegi
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Posted: Thu Jun 28th, 2007 00:47

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Should see the silver tabs like in this photo.....

Draco5656
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Posted: Thu Jun 28th, 2007 00:50

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I did not clean anything. I took off a clip and thats all I see.

Pegi
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Posted: Thu Jun 28th, 2007 00:52

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Just not sure but looks like that lock nut has dropped down onto the drive block, do not believe it should be setting that low, it is possible the shoulder of the drive block has worn down and the noise is the spin basket itself hitting the bottom of the tub or it is spinning on the drive block, we cannot know untill that lock nut is removed and we get a better look at the block and the ears of the spin tube, if they are still there...

Draco5656
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Posted: Thu Jun 28th, 2007 00:54

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So I use a hammer and screwdriver to get the plate with the 4 notches on it? That how I get it off?

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Posted: Thu Jun 28th, 2007 01:04

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Draco5656 wrote:
So I use a hammer and screwdriver to get the plate with the 4 notches on it? That how I get it off?

You could, but you'll have a much easier time of it if you use the right tool for the job.

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Pegi
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Posted: Thu Jun 28th, 2007 01:06

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Without the spanner wrench, yes that is what you can try, bang that lock nut to the left to remove it, now if the spin basket moves with it or the drive block rotates also we know something is broken in that area...

Draco5656
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Posted: Thu Jun 28th, 2007 02:10

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Tried and nothing moves so I guess it is too tight. I will have to get a spanner wrench. Below is a pic of the space next to the middle. Where the screwdriver is pointing too there are metal shavings. Alot compacted.

Attachment: Photo-0049.jpg (Downloaded 41 times)

Pegi
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Posted: Thu Jun 28th, 2007 02:23

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Looking more and more like you will be needing a drive block and the spin tube...if the tabs are too damamged to accept a new drive block and keep it in place..

Draco5656
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Posted: Thu Jun 28th, 2007 03:01

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So you think I will actually need to replace the drive block and spin tube? How much would that cost?

Pegi
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Posted: Thu Jun 28th, 2007 03:10

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Suggest waiting to see what is damaged first, drive block is likely around $10.00 or so, spin tube I would have to rearch as never had to replace one yet...spin tube or whole clutch assy, either way has the spin tube if you need it, others may know the pricing of these, if the two tabs are too damaged to hold a new drive block...need to take a look see first.

Draco5656
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Posted: Thu Jun 28th, 2007 03:12

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Ok. So first take off the bolt (with spanner wrench) and then see what it looks like?

Pegi
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Posted: Thu Jun 28th, 2007 03:12

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That model number is not coming up in the Sears site, which is the only place to locate breakdowns and part numbers for Kenmore brands even tho this washer was made by Whirlpool...

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