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Kenmore Dryer Model# 97282100  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sat Jun 25th, 2005 03:17 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Ok, good starting point.  Now we trace back though the circuit using the exact wiring diagram for your dryer.  Have you already posted that as an attachment previously in this topic?  If not, go ahead and do that now.

Last edited on Sat Jun 25th, 2005 03:45 am by Samurai Appliance Repair Man



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 Posted: Sat Jun 25th, 2005 05:35 am
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jpaduchak
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Here is a digital photo of my wiring diagram out of the dryer itself. I can also attach any other picture I shot them of all the main wiring locations while i was doing the diagram.

Attachment: P6240077.JPG (Downloaded 17 times)



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 Posted: Sat Jun 25th, 2005 05:37 am
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jpaduchak
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Sorry, This is the wiring digram.  Shot above is of the new ignitor and wiring

Attachment: P6240076.JPG (Downloaded 17 times)



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 Posted: Sat Jun 25th, 2005 07:45 am
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kdog
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you probably have an open #2 coil- check continuity of all 3 coils(expect very high resistance as wires are tiny)- if one is open-get a coil kit. this is a g.e. built dryer- in all my years working on kenmore products,have never seen a g.e./kenmore in gas,only electric.

Last edited on Sat Jun 25th, 2005 07:46 am by kdog



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 Posted: Sat Jun 25th, 2005 02:29 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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kdog wrote:  this is a g.e. built dryer- in all my years working on kenmore products,have never seen a g.e./kenmore in gas,only electric.
No, kdog, this is a Whirlpool-built dryer.  He gave his model number as 97282100.  Put a 110 in front of that and it pulls right up as the venerable Whirlpool-built dryer design with the lint filter in the top panel. 

JP, now measure the voltage at the 3V wire going to the burner assembly.  It's the one that comes from the operating thermostat.  Looking at your photo, you have two wires that plug into the burner assembly harness: blue and red.  It will be one of those two, physically verify.  One of those wires carries your 120vac (hot) and the other is neutral.  The one coming from the thermostat is the hot (I think I remember it as the red one but don't trust this-- verify for yourself).  We want to make sure you're getting 120v to the burner assembly. 

I don't rely on continuity measurements for coils because coils are electromechanical devices.  This means that they can fail mechanically OR electrically.  A coil can ohm out good but still fail to open.  This is why we're verifying proper voltage on the burner assembly harness.



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 Posted: Sat Jun 25th, 2005 07:58 pm
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jpaduchak
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Hey, now we are getting somewhere.  I DO have 120vac at the wiring harness.  Would that mean that the coil is the problem??



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 Posted: Sat Jun 25th, 2005 08:40 pm
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Well, we've triangulated in on the problem.  It comes down to the ignitor (which you've changed), the radiant sensor, or the coils.  You can check the coils electrically by ohming them out, as kdog described previously.  As I mentioned before, since coils are electromechanical devices, continuity tests for determining functional state are necessary but not sufficient.  In this particular case, It'll be easier to eliminate the other suspects. 

Do an ohm test on the ignitor (it'll be something high, in the kilo-ohms) and the radiant sensor (should read near zero ohms with the opening taped over to prevent light from entering).  If both of these components test good, then that leaves the coils.

Remember to isolate the component being tested from the rest of the circuit before making measuring resistance.  You may want to review electrical test procedures here:

http://fixitnow.com/2004/12/appliance-repair-revelation-making.htm



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 Posted: Sat Jun 25th, 2005 08:57 pm
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kdog
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i stand corrected,was much more tired than i thought when i read the header,i thought the model started with 978- but even after looking at the clearly whirlpool diagram!!  now i just looked at the picture of the burner he posted.  think we need another round of beers here!!



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