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Kenmore Dryer Model# 97282100  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Tue Jun 21st, 2005 11:36 pm
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Pegi
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It is attached to the front of the motor in the bottom of the dryer.



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 Posted: Tue Jun 21st, 2005 11:43 pm
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GLC



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it will look something like this
http://groups.msn.com/Appliantology/dryers.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=91



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 Posted: Wed Jun 22nd, 2005 03:18 pm
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jpaduchak
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Is that 110V flow through if I measure across that terminal?



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 Posted: Wed Jun 22nd, 2005 03:19 pm
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jpaduchak
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Hey, on a second note and considering my situation here are the repair manuals for these dryers any good?



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 Posted: Wed Jun 22nd, 2005 05:15 pm
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Indispensable! 

http://fixitnow.com/2003/01/appliance-tip-of-day-encore-genuine.htm



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 Posted: Wed Jun 22nd, 2005 05:45 pm
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Thanks for that tip, I'll order one today, but in the meantime how about some info on testing my motor switch and cleaning out the clutch as well as any other thoughts on what may be wrong with this little beauty.  I removed the venting unit where the fan resides and I vacuumed out any lint there.  It really didnt' look to bad.  There was alot of lint in the lower dryer area around the motor.

How do I go about testing that switch?



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 Posted: Wed Jun 22nd, 2005 08:51 pm
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With the dryer unlugged access the switch on the front of the motor.  Remove the 2 red wires from 1 and 2 on the switch, these will be the ones right next to the motor body.  With the motor off attach your ohm meter to these 2 terminals, the needle should not move.  Now look into the front of the motor and you will see a metal tab. assy with springs attached to it.  Take your finger or a flat blade screw driver and pull that forward till it clicks and you should show a reading on your ohm meter.  Release this clutch and the needle will go back down.  Work this clutch back and fourth and see if the button on the switch is giving cont. each time.  There might be some lint blocking this from pushing the button each time.  2 screws hold this switch onto the motor, you can carefully remove these and remove the switch to see if the button is sticking.   Hold this switch together as it will fall apart spilling its guts all over without the 2 screws to hold it together.



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 Posted: Fri Jun 24th, 2005 09:49 pm
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There was some lint built up in the motor and clutch, but I cleaned it out good.  I still have a loss of voltage to the ignitor.  What should i check out next?:shock:



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 Posted: Fri Jun 24th, 2005 10:08 pm
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Pegi
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Ok, the timer feeds the heat selecter switch, which feeds the motor switch, which feeds the  cycling thermostat which feeds the igniter thru the thermofuse  on the vent housing, and the safety thermostat is in the circut.  Get you a volt stick and see where you are losing the voltage, checks the voltage right thru the insulation on the wires.



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 Posted: Fri Jun 24th, 2005 10:11 pm
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Here's the non-contact voltage sensor (a.k.a., light stick) that Pegi is talking about:

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=430644&Acc=1



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 Posted: Fri Jun 24th, 2005 11:48 pm
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Let me make sure I understand this correctly.  The light stick will tell me if I have at least 110V passing through the wiring.  Anything less won't light it, right?  It won't tell me the exact voltage, just that it is at least 110 - 600V???

Second,  Can you direct me to a wiring path diagram or series of that will show me what to check?

Thanks



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 Posted: Fri Jun 24th, 2005 11:57 pm
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Pegi
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Well, I would want a volt stick that tells you the exact voltage thru each wire from the timer and to each possible part from there to the igniter, not just if you are getting voltage.  You say you are getting some volts, but need to see what part or wire is stopping the 120 volts.



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 Posted: Sat Jun 25th, 2005 12:19 am
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jpaduchak
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That is what I was wondering exactly, and that doesn't appear to be something that the $25 item at the link above does??  Am I correct in that assumption?



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 Posted: Sat Jun 25th, 2005 12:24 am
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The light stick is good for a quick, non-invasive check to see if voltage is present or not.  It's a yea or nay, doesn't tell you how much or anything else.  It is a useful tool diagnostic tool but you'll need a meter for more sophisticated tests.  More information on basic electrical measurements here:

http://fixitnow.com/2004/12/appliance-repair-revelation-making.htm



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 Posted: Sat Jun 25th, 2005 12:41 am
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jpaduchak
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Ok, exalted grand master and fellow New Hampshireite.  I also want to thank all of you for your help so far as this hasn't been a cut and dry thing.  I have a very simple meter which is what I have done continuity testing with so far...  I'm ok with that, I think.  Seems to have got me this far ok...

What I want to know is with the Volt stick if it will register current under 110V, as my challenge appears to be not a 0 voltage issue, but an insufficient voltage problem...This could cause me a bit of a problem in itself if it's going to detect an under 110V current?

Also, Are there any areas where I am not going to be able to simply measure the current with a voltmeter at a switch or junction?

Ok, I promise this is the last question at least in this post... You guys fix these babies every other day or so.  The current just cut out on this dryer totally out of the blue, to me as an engineer by trade that would lead me to believe that it probably isn't a faulty wire (The wiring looks good and tight) but more likely one of the switches.  Any of the control switches that tend to fail regularly on these bad boys?? Just so I get an idea of where to go first or to double check, and can you direct me to the series of diagrams to make these voltage checks and if the controls have to be set a certain way...



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 Posted: Sat Jun 25th, 2005 12:48 am
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jpaduchak wrote: What I want to know is with the Volt stick if it will register current under 110V, as my challenge appears to be not a 0 voltage issue, but an insufficient voltage problem...This could cause me a bit of a problem in itself if it's going to detect an under 110V current?

Not to niggle, but words mean things and this is expecially critical in the technical world.  Light sticks sense VOLTAGE not CURRENT.  Huge difference because voltage is just water behind the dam that doen no work at all-- current is the flow of electrons created by that water behind the dam is what does all the work in making things run. 

I have seen light sticks illuminate in the presence of voltage as low as 87 volts, regardless of what the package says.  I have also seen them FAIL to illuminate in the presence of a full 120 vac.  Depends on the quality of the light stick and the charge of the batteries in that light stick.  Don't ge me wrong:  they are still extremely useful and I don't go on service calls without mine.  But, like all test instruments, you need to understand their limitations. 



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 Posted: Sat Jun 25th, 2005 01:18 am
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Sorry, obviously current is what we are concerned with here.  How about answers to the rest of my long question above??:D



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 Posted: Sat Jun 25th, 2005 02:06 am
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Are you getting 120vac at the ignitor harness?  If so, and you have a new ignitor that was properly installed without damaging it, then the ignitor must glow.  End of line.  If it doesn't, then you're not measuring voltage correctly.

So, what've you got?



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 Posted: Sat Jun 25th, 2005 02:14 am
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I have a brand spankin new ignitor.  I am not getting 120vac at the ignitor wiring harness.



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 Posted: Sat Jun 25th, 2005 02:16 am
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Let me add I appear to be getting about 20-30Vac at the wiring harness



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