|
|
Air Conditioners | Dehumidifiers | Dishwashers | Disposals | Dryers | Freezers | Humidifiers | Ice Makers | Microwave Ovens | Ovens, Ranges, Stoves | Refrigerators | Trash Compactors | Washers | Water Filters |
|
FAQs | Contact | Apprenticeship | Consultations | Parts | Model Number Help | Newsletter | Beer | Fixitnow.com
|
ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Kenmore Dryer Model# 97282100 |
|
| Moderated by: RegUS_PatOff, BrntToast, appl.tech.29501 | Search Our Sites for More Info! | Page: 1 2 3 |
|
||||||||||||
| Kenmore Dryer Model# 97282100 | Rate Topic |
| Author | Post |
|---|
| Posted: Thu Jun 16th, 2005 09:37 pm |
|
1st Post |
|
jpaduchak Grasshopper
|
My dryer is not heating up at all. No burner glow what so ever. I tested all sensors in the rear of the dryer for continuity and they check out. I'm seeing no continuity at the coil, ignitor and flame sensor, when cool. It seems strange that all of these parts would fail. I do have to say that I'm not totally sure that I am testing them correctly though.. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance, John
____________________ Improve your Health, mind and body... http://www.complementsforhealth.com |
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Thu Jun 16th, 2005 09:58 pm |
|
2nd Post |
|
Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
|
Check the white plastic thermo-fuse on the vent housing, if it is dead it kills the power to the heat circut on a gas dryer.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Thu Jun 16th, 2005 10:28 pm |
|
3rd Post |
|
jpaduchak Grasshopper
|
I checked that already and it appears to be fine as were the other sensors and fuses nearby.
____________________ Improve your Health, mind and body... http://www.complementsforhealth.com |
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Thu Jun 16th, 2005 10:34 pm |
|
4th Post |
|
Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
|
Does the ignitor come on at all? Or is it dead. If it is dead I would suspect the igntor if the t-fuse checks ok. If it glows and goes back off suspect the coils or gas valve. If it glows and stays on you have a bad flame switch, If it is dead and the t-fuse is ok, just have to get your volt stick and see where you have lost the circut to the ignitor.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Thu Jun 16th, 2005 11:11 pm |
|
5th Post |
|
jpaduchak Grasshopper
|
The ignitor does not come on at all. & the tfuse does check ok
____________________ Improve your Health, mind and body... http://www.complementsforhealth.com |
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Thu Jun 16th, 2005 11:22 pm |
|
6th Post |
|
Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
|
I would suspect the ignitor is broken, remove it and inspect it for a crack.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
|
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Fri Jun 17th, 2005 12:45 am |
|
7th Post |
|
jpaduchak Grasshopper
|
I took off the ignitor, and it looks ok. I thought I saw a very small crack in the ceramic but I put some stress on it and it just looks like a mark on the ceramic. I also looked at the thermal sensor and it looks ok. The ignitor does not test for continuity though. It's not infinite, but it is close
____________________ Improve your Health, mind and body... http://www.complementsforhealth.com |
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Fri Jun 17th, 2005 02:59 am |
|
8th Post |
GLC
|
FIRST make sure the unit is not in the fluff mode. things you can try. If you have a meter clip it onto the two wires that the removed ignitor would be hooked too. Make sure everything is clear and turn the unit on for just a few seconds. Watch your meter. If you see that meter jump to 110 volts then we know the ignitor is getting current and its bad. The other thing to do is with a "cheater" cord. But unless you know what you are doing and actually work with electricity it is not something to try with internet instructions. I don't want you shocking yourself
____________________ Unless specifically asked otherwise, remember to test with the unit unplugged, or breaker off. CLICK HERE TO BUY PARTS Appliance Repair In Maryland http://serviceeveryday.com |
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Fri Jun 17th, 2005 03:15 pm |
|
9th Post |
|
jpaduchak Grasshopper
|
Thanks, I have power coming to the ignitor. I'll order a new one and see if that does the trick. I really appreciate the help
____________________ Improve your Health, mind and body... http://www.complementsforhealth.com |
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Fri Jun 17th, 2005 03:27 pm |
|
10th Post |
GLC
|
jpaduchak wrote:Thanks, I have power coming to the ignitor. I'll order a new one and see if that does the trick. I really appreciate the help GREAT. Let us know how it goes.
____________________ Unless specifically asked otherwise, remember to test with the unit unplugged, or breaker off. CLICK HERE TO BUY PARTS Appliance Repair In Maryland http://serviceeveryday.com |
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Fri Jun 17th, 2005 10:57 pm |
|
11th Post |
|
Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
|
Bet the new igniter fixes him right up.....
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Tue Jun 21st, 2005 08:53 pm |
|
12th Post |
|
jpaduchak Grasshopper
|
I put in the new ignitor today. It's still not glowing and lighting. I again double checked that it is getting power. I'm totally at my wits end
____________________ Improve your Health, mind and body... http://www.complementsforhealth.com |
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Tue Jun 21st, 2005 09:21 pm |
|
13th Post |
|
Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
|
When the dryer calls for heat and you hear the click that is one chamber of the gas valve opening. The ignitor starts to glow, and when the flame switch on the side of the cone cuts out the ignitor cuts out and the second chamber opens and the gas lights from the cooling down ignitor. If you have power to the ignitor it should be glowing. Are you waitig long enough for this to start glowing?
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Tue Jun 21st, 2005 09:28 pm |
|
14th Post |
|
jpaduchak Grasshopper
|
I left it on for about 5 minutes. I'm going to go try it right now and leave it on longer. I haven't put the drum and stuff back in yet, so their isn't some sensor I should know about is there... Thanks, John
____________________ Improve your Health, mind and body... http://www.complementsforhealth.com |
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Tue Jun 21st, 2005 09:53 pm |
|
15th Post |
|
Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
|
Timer, heat selector switch, motor switch, cycling thermostat, thermofuse, ignitor, flame switch, gas valve coils, safety thermostat should be the circut. The ignitor should start glowing 1-2 minutes after the dryer starts. If you have voltage to the ignitor it should be glowing unless it is broken.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Tue Jun 21st, 2005 09:55 pm |
|
16th Post |
|
jpaduchak Grasshopper
|
I made a discovery. I have kind of a funky cheapo multimeter. Most of the time I just use it to make sure the power is off and test batteries. At first I was just checking to see that I had power to the ignitor at all, well then I checked my meter against the outlet to realize that I'm not getting enough power at the ignitor. What could be causing that problem? I figure I'm only getting 20-30V AC instead of 110V.
____________________ Improve your Health, mind and body... http://www.complementsforhealth.com |
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Tue Jun 21st, 2005 09:57 pm |
|
17th Post |
|
Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
|
See my list of the heat circut above your last post.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Tue Jun 21st, 2005 10:02 pm |
|
18th Post |
|
jpaduchak Grasshopper
|
If you were me, and knowing what you know where would you start? Some of those Items I'm not sure how to test...
____________________ Improve your Health, mind and body... http://www.complementsforhealth.com |
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Posted: Tue Jun 21st, 2005 10:12 pm |
|
19th Post |
|
Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
|
Start by checking if the motor switch is clogged with lint, 1-2 gives power to the heat circut when the motor gets up to speed. the button on the switch might be clogged with lint or the clutch in the motor that activates this might be clogged. Everything else is either good or broken, except for the coils on the gas valve, but if they were weak, the ignitor would glow but the gas valve would not open all of the time. Also examine all of the wires to be sure none are burnt or have bad connections. check each wire to see if they are good from end to end.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
|
||||||||||||||
| |||||||||||||||
| Posted: Tue Jun 21st, 2005 11:30 pm |
|
20th Post |
|
jpaduchak Grasshopper
|
Where do I find this motor switch you are talking about here?
____________________ Improve your Health, mind and body... http://www.complementsforhealth.com |
|||||||||||||
| ||||||||||||||
| Current time is 11:08 am
|
Page: 1 2 3 |
| ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Kenmore Dryer Model# 97282100 | Top |
| Find Appliance Parts & Diagrams Here |
| Enter a model number, part number, type of appliance, brand, or even a part description. |
|
365-day return policy on all parts ordered through this site! |
FAQs | Contact | Apprenticeship | Consultations | Parts | Model Number Help | Newsletter | Beer | Fixitnow.com