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270Handiman
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Wed May 30th, 2007 02:55 |
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I am changing the coupling on my direct drive Kenmore washer. I found the problem last week by turning the machine over and looking underneath. The problem is I left it upside down for a week while I waited for the part to arrive. Apparently, if you do this gear oil will drain out slowly an get everywhere inside the cabinet. I cleaned up my mess, but do I need to add more oil to the transmission box??? If so, what's the best way to do this?
Help,
Matt
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hvacdrd
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Posted: Wed May 30th, 2007 03:41 |
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I'm guessing you didn't read this to make life much easier. So now what?
Since you have no idea how much you lost it becomes a guessing game. Your options for adding are to remove the gearcase, remove the cover & add. Or if you have a syringe with a small needle you could try adding it to the vent port on the cover - likely the source of the leak while it was on it's back. 90W gear oil should do the job Here is the factory stuff - gearcase capacity is 16oz
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nickfixit
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Posted: Wed May 30th, 2007 11:38 |
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Was it upside down, or laying on it's side?
Nick
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Keinokuorma
Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Wed May 30th, 2007 11:43 |
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nickfixit wrote: Was it upside down, or laying on it's side?
270handiman wrote:
The problem is I left it upside down for a week while I waited for the part to arrive
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270Handiman
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Wed May 30th, 2007 12:33 |
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It was on its top resting against the control panal. I see the vent hole now, but where it's at I still need more space between the gearcase and whats above it to work a syringe. How do you remove the gearcase, or at least drop it down some?
Matt
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Tronicsmasta
Master Appliantologist
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Posted: Thu May 31st, 2007 01:26 |
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EDITED May 31st
I took these pic while at work today.
Look here to remove the cabinet the proper way…
http://groups.msn.com/Appliantology/washers.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=283
Now get down on your knees and do a few things…
1. Remove the 2 clips from the pump and put the pump to the left side… I use a long 1.5 ft socket extension through the hole on the base to hold it out of the way…
2. disconnect the motor wire harness… lift on the clip and slide it to your right. If there is a capacitor there attached to the motor, pull the 2 red wires off and put a screw drive across the two terminals to discharge the cap. If you fail to do this you may shock yourself. If the cap is not there then don’t worry about it. Also, remove the clip holding the wire harness to the gear case… it’s a fat white clip that’s through a hole in the gearcase.
3. remove the 2 screws on the clips of the motor… then pop the clips with a flat blade screw driver if there arnt any ¼ in screws on it no worries…
4. pull out the motor and set it aside.
5. go back to the agitator and figure out how to remove that.. most of the time there is a dispenser for the fabric softner… pop the dispenser off or the cap that is there and under it is a seal and a cover. Under that is usually a 7/16 in bolt that you have to pull off.. take the bolt out and the whole agitator comes out…
EDIT If you have them, remove the metal click and the plastic pieces... notice their orientation... be sure they go back the way you found them.
I use the base of the agitator to put under the front right foot in order to get enough room to pull out the gear case.
6. there are 3 half inch bolts holding the gearcase in… take them out 1 at a time lol… I do the back and the left ones first. Then I slowly pull out the right one and the gear case drops… pull it out…
I work for a major corporate repair company and we don’t refill the gearcase oil.. if its leaking or empty, then we just replace the gear case.
EDIT: THese are pics from a leaky gearcase:
THis gear case spit up oil into the clutch assembly.
Below is a pic of a dirty(greasy)/worn clutch on the left and a nice clean new one...
Below is part of a clean clutch
Oil that splattered the inside of the cabinet when the clutch assem spun...
A reconditioned gearcase is approx 70 dollars..
Last edited on Sun Jun 3rd, 2007 01:27 by Tronicsmasta
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It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call Sears(1-800-469-4663), A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Thu May 31st, 2007 01:29 |
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Tronicsmasta wrote: I work for a major corporate repair company ...
Your experience was apparent from your several erudite posts. You're too good to be an Apprentice; you are hereby promoted to Master Appliantologist. 
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270Handiman
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Thu May 31st, 2007 02:00 |
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I second that promotion!!!!!!!!!
Following instructions now.
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Pegi
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Posted: Thu May 31st, 2007 02:12 |
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Good move Samurai...Welcome, we look forward to your knowledge and experience, you will be a great asset to this forum....Pegi
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Tronicsmasta
Master Appliantologist
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Posted: Thu May 31st, 2007 02:59 |
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lol why thank you. I was acutally looking online for help with a TV that i picked up off the street and i stumbled across yoru site and i couldnt help but want to help a guy with a maytag.... lol
i even bit the bullet for the 5 dollars lol nice to be part of the team!
____________________
It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call Sears(1-800-469-4663), A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).
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Tronicsmasta
Master Appliantologist
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Posted: Fri Jun 1st, 2007 03:37 |
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| Samurai ... can you do something with those pictures? This may become a future guide. I took those during work today and decided to edit the post above...
____________________
It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call Sears(1-800-469-4663), A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).
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270Handiman
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Sat Jun 2nd, 2007 03:11 |
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One last question..........
When I first flipped my washer back over and discovered the leaking oil a few nights ago, I also found one other thing. It looks like a big gold colored 8 penny nail with a hole in the end of it and flat on one side. It just fell out from underneath, and I have no idea what it is. Any Ideas?????
I've got everything else back together, but I've got to figure out this one last piece before I put the cabinet back on and test it!
Thanks again,
Matt
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nickfixit
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Posted: Sat Jun 2nd, 2007 04:00 |
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Ignore it. It was a locking pin for shipping. When the shipping pins were pulled, those gold pins dropped into plastic cups so they wouldn't cause any problems. You had one come out because it was upside down.
Nick
____________________
" Giving numerical data to Sears management is like giving a monkey a machine gun. No one knows for certain what will happen, but you can be sure of two things... It will be real messy, and only the monkey will be unharmed"
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270Handiman
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Posted: Sat Jun 2nd, 2007 05:21 |
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Thanks Nick,
Finished my assembly and all seems to be working properly. I'm going to run a small load to verify all is well.
Thanks,
matt
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270Handiman
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Posted: Sat Jun 2nd, 2007 05:43 |
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OK, One More Problem!
Everything seems to be working great except..........
when the washer goes to the spin cycle, it won't spin fast. It just slowly goes around in a circle. I mean, real slow, barely moving. And, I can smell a faint oder of rubber or oil or something.
So, what can I check now??????? Isn't there a brake or something??????
Help again,
Matt
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hvacdrd
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Posted: Sat Jun 2nd, 2007 05:50 |
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Did you clean the oil off of the clutch pads and plate?
...also "The white drive cam on the bottom of the spintube just needs to sit toward the opposite side of the spring in the clutch" - thanks Poobah
Last edited on Sat Jun 2nd, 2007 06:02 by hvacdrd
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Keinokuorma
Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Sat Jun 2nd, 2007 09:07 |
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Tronicsmasta wrote: I took those during work today and decided to edit the post above...
EDIT: Now it's just great!
Last edited on Sun Jun 17th, 2007 21:14 by Keinokuorma
____________________
"There is no reason anyone would want a computer in their home."
- Ken Olson, Digital Equipment Corporation (1977)
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270Handiman
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Sat Jun 2nd, 2007 13:47 |
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I wiped the clutch off, but I didn't clean it more than that.
The "white drive cam on the bottom of the spintube just needs to sit toward the opposite side of the spring in the clutch"???????
This is the first I've heard of this. Mine is actually touching the spring. In fact, they clicked together when I turned them during installation. Well, I guess I tear the machine down again. Is there anything else that could be wrong here?
Thanks again,
Matt
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nickfixit
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Posted: Sat Jun 2nd, 2007 14:49 |
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It would be best to install a new clutch. If you can't get one right now, you need to clean it with brake cleaner and sand the pads with a fine sand paper . Do the same with the inside of the clutch drum. Then, clean them both with brake cleaner a 2nd time. You can also try to stretch the little spring on the pad band to give it more tension on the drum.
Nick
____________________
" Giving numerical data to Sears management is like giving a monkey a machine gun. No one knows for certain what will happen, but you can be sure of two things... It will be real messy, and only the monkey will be unharmed"
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270Handiman
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Sat Jun 2nd, 2007 15:29 |
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Thanks for the quick reply Nick, I'll give it a shot. I got a new clutch assembly and I'm trying to figure out how to install it.
Matt
Last edited on Sat Jun 2nd, 2007 17:56 by 270Handiman
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