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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Kenmore 90 series Washing Machine - Mod.# 110.20902990 Ser.# CK 1763124

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Kenmore 90 series Washing Machine - Mod.# 110.20902990 Ser.# CK 1763124  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sat Jun 2nd, 2007 10:37 pm
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Tronicsmasta



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This pic a little blurry but you will see what it looks like once you drop the gearcase...


Thats the cluch on the gearcase. You will see a washer with tabs on it over that "c" clip... Remove it. then use a flat blade screw driver to pop over the "c" clip. then use the same screw driver to lift on the very end of that inner retainer... see how it goes into the clutch then goes around? pop it where it ends... then rotate the clutch about a 1/4 turn then pop it again... it will pop right out. remove that cluch and its plastic washer under it.

when installing the new one, be sure to put that plastic washer under it. its snaps right in. then put the outer part of the clutch down and put that retainer back in. start with the side that goes into the clutch and push it in and down then rotate the clutch a bit and keep going until that retainer is fully in. put the "c" clip back in and that metal washer with tabs over it. the tabs have to be in beteen the "c" clip openings to sit right.

then use a pair of Channel locks to squeeze the spring while on the cutch pads ring.


BE SURE TO USE THE NEW BLUE SPRING in the clutch kit... The new black one is for a different type of washer...

make sure that the clutch and basket drive are not on top of each other ... make that plastic lever opposite the clutch spring.

Good luck!



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 Posted: Sat Jun 2nd, 2007 11:45 pm
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270Handiman
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Success at Last!  Went ahead and bought a new clutch kit and installed it.  I also took the brake system apart and cleaned the pads and drum with brake cleaner.  There was definately gear oil all over both the clutch system and the brake system.  After another re-assembly, all is well.  The spin cycle now works great, as well as the rest of the functions.  I've washed 4 loads so far, and all systems are GO!.

I just wanted to say THANK YOU to all who contributed information and guidance through this saga that ended up being a 2 page topic. 

Thanks again,

Matt

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 Posted: Sun Jun 3rd, 2007 08:51 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Tronicsmasta wrote: Samurai ... can you do something with those pictures? This may become a future guide. I took those during work today and decided to edit the post above...

You should arrange them into an online photo sharing album such as at Flickr or Webshots and then you can share the link to the album wherever you want.

Last edited on Sun Jun 3rd, 2007 08:51 pm by Samurai Appliance Repair Man



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 Posted: Thu Jun 21st, 2007 10:20 pm
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Prelude2244
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Hi. Can you or anybody tell me how the clutch is attached to the brake. I see that the brake has a plastic peice, kinda like two fingers. Does the clutch go in between that space?  Thanks.

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 Posted: Fri Jun 22nd, 2007 01:02 am
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Tronicsmasta



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As you can see from the pictures above, the clutch is attached to a spring that pushes the pads of the clutch onto the outer bowl if you will... one side of the clutch hits the plasic tab on the basket drive/break assem.



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It is never a bad thing to leave it to the professionals. Inexperience can lead to more damage or risk of injury. You can always call A&E Factory Service (1-800-905-9505), Sears(1-800-469-4663), or local service man you can trust (servicemagic.com).
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 Posted: Fri Jun 22nd, 2007 11:27 am
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Prelude2244
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What I'm doing is I'm replacing the gearcase, clutch, and basket drive. I bought it as a set. Now the clutch is already assembled and attached to the gearcase. What I'm trying to find out is this:

1. Once I remove the gearcase (3 bolts), how do I remove the basket drive/break?

2. The white plastic tab on the on the brake, does it matter which side of the spring it goes when I push the clutch to it? When you look at the clutch, the metal peice that holds the spring together, one of them is longer than the other one. Is there a reason for this?  Thanks.

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 Posted: Sat Jul 28th, 2007 12:14 am
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FLdude
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Question about the clutch bands pictured above.   One band has 3 white pad the other has 6.

I just fixed a 2002 80 series that was not spinning all the time.  I pulled the gearbox and clutch out of one made in 1997.   The older one had the clutch with 6 pads.  Did they just cheapen things up?

Just wondering.

 

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 Posted: Sat Jul 28th, 2007 07:14 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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FLdude wrote:
The older one had the clutch with 6 pads. Did they just cheapen things up?

Just wondering.


You got that right!!!! Don't you know, that's the normal way the appliance manufactures work, if a part doesn't wear out/break often enough it has to be redesigned to fail sooner.



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 Posted: Mon Oct 1st, 2007 08:47 pm
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MotorHead
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This is a great site and this post helped me alot.  Thanks!

There is a comment earlier in this post that says "A reconditioned gearcase is approx 70 dollars..".  I want to find one of these (or a rebuild kit if that's feasible).  I have a leaky gearcase and it fouled the clutch so this is around $180 in parts for a 10 year old machine.  If I can't reduce part cost it may make more sense to replace.  I did clean the clutch with brake cleaner and machine is running...but I'm sure not for very.  I've tried a number of local parts places along with repairclinic.com of course but I'm not finding rebuilds and gearcase price is consistently between 145 and 160. 

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 Posted: Tue Oct 2nd, 2007 06:28 am
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AccApp
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Try ebay, I have seen a few new ones go for ~$75.



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 Posted: Thu Feb 21st, 2008 12:27 pm
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GeorgeG
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Can anyone give insight into the proper clutch spring. I am rebuilding a 110.20982992. Its a 2000 Kenmore machine with a 20.5" basket (large). The new clutch kit came with the green and blue springs - the green was installed. The included insert said the blue spring for the big basket. I ordered the individual spring from sears parts to double check and it was the green one. There is no black spring even though that is the color of the original. Several posts on different forums have given me all 3 answers.

 

Thanks,

 

George

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 Posted: Tue Apr 1st, 2008 02:55 pm
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Prelude2244
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To replace the gearcase, does the tub needs to be removed or not? does the gearcase just pulls out as soon as you remove the agitator and the gearcase bolts?  Thanks for your help.

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 Posted: Wed Apr 2nd, 2008 01:56 am
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certified tech group 51
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The spin basket stays. Remove parts per earlier posts, The gearbox will start to slip down as the fasteners are removed , (three fasteners). Do not forget to open the vent hole in the top of the gearbox. Reassemble in reverse order.

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 Posted: Wed Apr 2nd, 2008 11:53 am
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Prelude2244
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Thanks. When you say the vent hole, you mean the sticker covering that tiny hole? Also, once the gercase slips out, how to you remove the break and  drive tube?  Thanks.

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 Posted: Wed Apr 9th, 2008 05:47 pm
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baitmaster
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I wonder how many people are going through this same repair at the same time.

My Washer stopped spinning about a month ago and I was sticking my finger in the door switch and started it spinning by hand, and watched it build up RPMs, and then closed the door. It completely stop spinningworking last week, and I tore into it last night.

I feel that if they are going to haul the unit off anyway, if I have to purchase a new one, then it shouldn't matter if it is one or a dozen pieces. I am pretty certain my next washer will not be a Kenmore (thinking G.E), but if I repair this unit I will be happy.

I still don't see the vent hole on top of the gearcase, and there was  something about a sticker. Is it under the clutch "Bowl"?   Does anyone know of where a picture of this vent hole can be located?

The Sear's repair man that I paid $65 to examine the washer said that it could run without gear oil, but wanted $600 to repair my unit (that's more than a new one with a 2 year warranty (only a few months warranty on the repair).

I haven't removed the retaining pin, and "clutch bowl" and will be using the following directions:

"very end of that inner retainer... see how it goes into the clutch then goes around? pop it where it ends... then rotate the clutch about a 1/4 turn then pop it again... it will pop right out. remove that cluch and its plastic washer under it."

So I will be able to install a new tranny.



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 Posted: Wed Apr 9th, 2008 05:57 pm
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RegUS_PatOff
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what's your model number ?

Who makes what? : Kenmore

 



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 Posted: Wed Apr 9th, 2008 06:01 pm
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baitmaster
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It's the same model

110 20902990

Ser Ck 2780198

Type 111

 

The parts look just like the picture above, and I don't see the vent hole for the gearcase, and consider that it might be under the 'bowl' of the clutch assembly.

 

thanks



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 Posted: Wed Apr 9th, 2008 06:16 pm
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Prelude2244
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check this out: http://applianceguru.com/forum2/16050.html

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 Posted: Wed Apr 9th, 2008 10:52 pm
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GeorgeG
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The vent hole in the last replacement tranny that I got was in the top stamped cover plate at the top of a small bump in that plate. It was covered with a small dab of white paint with no sticker.

 

George

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 Posted: Wed Apr 9th, 2008 11:37 pm
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something like this one ? 

 !!WARNING

CLEAR HOLE BEFORE

INSTALLATION



 

Last edited on Wed Apr 9th, 2008 11:37 pm by RegUS_PatOff



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