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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Kenmore Model 41744092500 front load washer

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Kenmore Model 41744092500 front load washer  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Tue Mar 27th, 2007 02:57 pm
   
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stonkers
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So, my 1 1/2 YO Kenmore model # 41744092500 front load washing machine won't spin.  We kept having SOAKING wet clothes at the end of a wash and I thought it wasn't draining properly.  Well I set it to Drain/Spin and watched it.  It makes a humming noise, but doesn't spin AT ALL.  It does move around in wash mode, so I'm perplexed enough to cough up a five spot to post on a forum filled with washer gurus (i.e. my hands work, why not use them...).  Any help out there?  Thanks much!

Eric <><

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 Posted: Tue Mar 27th, 2007 04:27 pm
   
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AccApp
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Pull off the lower front access panel with a #2 square driver or a #2 Phillips. There should be a tech info envelope with a string of diagnostic tests, usually on the left side of the cabinet. The tech sheet therein will tell you what to look for. Is there water left in the tub? Is the pump draining the tub?



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 Posted: Tue Mar 27th, 2007 05:34 pm
   
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stonkers
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I can see it pump the water out, but then it won't spin.

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 Posted: Tue Mar 27th, 2007 05:44 pm
   
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stonkers
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I'll check out that techinfo guide.  Prolly get back wif ya on the morrow!  Thanks for the help!!!

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 Posted: Tue Mar 27th, 2007 06:02 pm
   
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AccApp
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Are you using the "Perm. Press" cycle and is the "Press Saver" option selected? If so, will utilize an incredibly short/lame spin cycle.



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 Posted: Tue Mar 27th, 2007 06:44 pm
   
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stonkers
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Nope.  Any cycle I use does it.  And if I just select Drain/Spin, it drains but doesn't spin.

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 Posted: Tue Mar 27th, 2007 09:14 pm
   
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stonkers
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OK, I ran the diagnostic tests.  All tests, including spin (it spins like the dickens in diagnostic mode) passed with flying colors.  When I hit the final test to get the error code, it revealed an E47, which is:

Board thinks the door PTC circuit is open in spin

Check says: Refer to test (9)

This test is the one to do the high spin test and check the door lock.  It spun and locked during that test.  Any help on where I go from here?

Thanks,
Eric

P.S. - As a sidenote, I wanted to look into what a board would cost, but your "Parts Detective" can't find my model which I am positive is:

Kenmore 417.44092500 (double checked with Sears Service)

Last edited on Wed Mar 28th, 2007 04:26 pm by stonkers

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 Posted: Wed Mar 28th, 2007 04:35 pm
   
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stonkers
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Wow, now I'm getting ticked off (no more Sears scratch and dent for me).  Check out this link:

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Heating-Air-Conditioning-696/Kenmore-loader-washing-machine.htm

Mine also is about a month out of warranty.  I'm not into spending $125/year to keep my washing machine up running.  Anybody have any experience with this?

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 Posted: Wed Mar 28th, 2007 05:28 pm
   
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Poobah
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the # for the board is 134523105...(old # is 134523102)....the prob. with looking up kenmore stuff is Sears doesn't like to share data and schematics so you just about have to look on their site and get the #'s........



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 Posted: Wed Mar 28th, 2007 05:36 pm
   
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Poobah
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test 9 ---  remove the door lock assembly and measure the resistence of the PTC...if open or shorted then replace the door lock assembly...If it measure around 1500 ohm, you have a defective control board



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 Posted: Wed Mar 28th, 2007 06:17 pm
   
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stonkers
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OK, so Sears replaced the part because, obviously, they knew it was defective.  So shouldn't they extend warranty of said defective part?

Last edited on Wed Mar 28th, 2007 06:25 pm by stonkers

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 Posted: Wed Mar 28th, 2007 06:22 pm
   
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Pegi
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Part numbers change when an updated part is available, it will be an improvement to the software in the board..



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 Posted: Wed Mar 28th, 2007 09:41 pm
   
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AccApp
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Which part did they replace?



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 Posted: Wed Mar 28th, 2007 10:47 pm
   
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stonkers
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The control board.

I've got the thing apart, but don't know which of these connections to test for 1500 ohms.  There are 3 harnasses that connect into the door lock.


(EDITED WIRE COLORS)

3 Wiring harnasses coming into the door lock:
1 has a black and a grey coming into the lock assembly
1 has 3 red with black stripe wires and a orange wire coming into the lock assembly
1 has a red with black stripe and a pink coming into the lock assembly

Thanks Again Very MUCH!!!
Eric <><

You Guys/Gals ROCK!!!!

Last edited on Thu Mar 29th, 2007 12:15 pm by stonkers

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 Posted: Thu Mar 29th, 2007 11:45 pm
   
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stonkers
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OK, I think I figured out how to test the resistance of the PTC.  First I had to figure out what the PTC was.  That's the white part hanging out the end that the power comes into.  So I tested it disconnected and it came up at 1400 ohms.  A guy told me at the appliance store that I had to test it with power coming into it.  So I tried to test the to sets of NO circuits in diagnostic mode with the door lock test running.  Well, I can no longer get into diagnostic mode.  Is there anything special that takes these things away from diagnostic mode permanently.  I thought maybe because 2 of the plugs to the door lock were disconnectd, so I put everything back together.  Nope, didn't help.  I even unplugged the machine for 30 seconds.  I'm running a cycle now to get an error code loaded in there (I cleared the last one) thinking maybe it needs an error code to hit diagnostic mode.  Any help out there.  Again THANKS!

Eric <><

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 Posted: Sat Mar 31st, 2007 01:13 pm
   
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BrntToast
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before you buy a board for that washer i would check for crushed/cut wires at the SCU(the board at the back with the white case) look and make sure the plastic cover is clicked in securly cause it holds the small wiring harness in place and also check all wires running down the front of the board because the way frigidaire routed the wires if the tub goes out of balance enough the motor pinches the wires between the motor and the case for the SCU

free tip, save yourself the cut arm and run some tape along the edge of the opening in the back, i swear frigidaire has someone on the assembly line sharpening that edge with a wet stone



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 Posted: Fri Jan 2nd, 2009 09:56 pm
   
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wesley2anderson
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I also tried using an ohm meter to check the door latch circuitry.  fist it was at 1600 ohms.  I left it plugged in during a spin/drain cycle the ohm meter went negative for the first few min then jumped up to 600 to 800 ohms and at the 7 min mark the washer stopped and the ohm meter stayed at 800 ohms and did not go above 1000 ohms.   I did this on the one with two wires on it and it slid onto two metal prongs coming out of the door latch circuitry.

Does this mean it is the door latch circuitry is bad or did i do this wrong?

Please help my wife is going nuts.

thanks

Last edited on Fri Jan 2nd, 2009 09:57 pm by wesley2anderson

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 Posted: Sat Jan 3rd, 2009 03:00 am
   
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RegUS_PatOff
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can't measure OHMS with power applied



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