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Whirlpool quite wash top Loader With Coupler Circa 2000

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Posted: Sun Mar 11th, 2007 12:35 pm

21^st Post

That Guy

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No control magnet on this model. Its all done mechanically. There is a plate and some cams inside as well as a special gear with a spin pawl.

If you can go here and download Job Aid L-55 its a pdf file.

http://www.servicematters.com/tech_ref/JA/ja_main.htm

On page 14 it describes the spin better than I can.

Posted: Sun Mar 11th, 2007 02:46 pm

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Pegi
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Sounds like tranny problems, just not shifting into spin till the lid is raised and closed...

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Posted: Sun Mar 11th, 2007 09:10 pm

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thezone
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I don't understand what you mean by pull the cover. All the electrical can be seen if you unscrew the two screws attatching the control panel to the washer cover. If I unscrew those two screws, I can lift the cover back to expose all the electronics. Now, with the cover pealed back, where would the contacts be? And if this is the timer, are you talking about the knob that you turn to select the different wash cycles? Thanks for you help.

Posted: Sun Mar 11th, 2007 09:20 pm

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Scottthewolf

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The control magnet does not apply to these direct drive models, only the old belt drive models.

The direct drive models use a reversible motor, and the timer reverses the motor by reversing polarity of the electrical current through the start winding.

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Posted: Sun Mar 11th, 2007 09:22 pm

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Scottthewolf

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Sorry That Guy, I missed your reply about the control magnet.

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Posted: Sun Mar 11th, 2007 10:17 pm

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thezone
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HUH??? Are you replying to me or someone else. My question is how come my washer doesn't work like it is supposed to. Please read above. Thanks

Posted: Sun Mar 11th, 2007 11:46 pm

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Keinokuorma
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Thezone,

They're discussing the reason why your machine doesn't switch to spin after draining, and I think Pegi nailed it already, some quirk with the transmission.

Scottthewolf wrote:

The control magnet does not apply to these direct drive models, only the old belt drive models.
The direct drive models use a reversible motor, and the timer reverses the motor by reversing polarity of the electrical current through the start winding.

Reversible motor, yes that much I've gathered... so did the belt drive models, but they apparently redesigned the transmission more than just replacing the pulley with the coupler... dumb move, perhaps? Or did the old system give more trouble?

That Guy,

I see you already explained a while ago... we were typing our msg's simultaneously, I was away in the middle of mine, came back to finish and send it... and missed your post in the 1st page of the discussion. We got in with 4 minute difference, and I was partially wrong in my x-planation.

Last edited on Sun Mar 11th, 2007 11:58 pm by Keinokuorma

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Posted: Mon Mar 12th, 2007 01:40 am

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thezone
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Pegi, please be more specific. What could be the problem in the transmission. Or is it like someone else said posibly a pause problem in the timer? Actually pause problem sounds more plausable, but since I have little experiance in washing machines, I really have no clue. Thank you for all your replies. We will solve this eventually. Then maybe when we are done this thread will help others. Cheers..

Posted: Mon Mar 12th, 2007 02:03 am

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Pegi
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After a dd washer gets to the end of the wash cycle the timer pauses so the motor can reverse for drain/spin...before thes the agitate cycle sets up the tranny so it can spin....now after the first pause the washer drains for a couple of minutes, then the timer pauses a second time and the washer will then spin because the tranny has been set up....now if you do not have that second pause in the timer the washer will never spin....opening and closing the lid takes the place of the second pause, if this is what is happening.....if you do have both pauses the timer is not the problem, but there are times when the tranny will not go into spin untill the lid is opened and closed, you hear a thud and it will start spinning, I do not know why, have read about this, perhaps others can tell you what it is in the tranny that takes opening and closing the lid to make it shift into the spin mode, there is a part inside of the tranny that is wearing but I do not know what it is...

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Posted: Mon Mar 12th, 2007 03:09 am

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That Guy

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thezone wrote: :shock:

Well, found an appliance guy in town that had a motor for this washer. Replaced it following alll the proper protocol. Everything is as it was. In other words, I still have the spin problem. Everytime the washer enters a spin cycle, it just sits and hums. If I pick up the lid and then set it down, spin cycle starts and the basket spins. Then after it does a few more thing like agitating and such it works fine. Enter another spin cycle, it just hums. Pick up the lid again and set it down, washer continues normally. Kind of a pain to babysit the washer through each load. New coupler, new motor, new pump. Now what?

The words in bold say it all. No pause. No shift into spin.

The timer has its own cover. It slides off and reveals the cam and a bunch of leaf switches. One of these sets of switches is probably very burnt.

Posted: Mon Mar 12th, 2007 05:06 am

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thezone
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Ok, I removed the Timer switch as per instrutions you sent in the form a pdf tech manual. On page 20 it shows fig 46. This appears to be a sealed unit and there are no burned contacts on the outside where the plug attaches to the unit. Am I supposed to try to take this timer case apart? I see no screws or any obvious way to service it.

Posted: Mon Mar 12th, 2007 07:54 am

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That Guy

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If your timer looks like that one, you are correct, there is no way to take it apart. I thought you would have one more like the one on page 21, figure 47. Sorry about that. I still think its the timer.

I'm not really liking the newest generation of timers, too much plastic. On the other timers you could file the contacts and get them to work awhile longer or at least prove they were bad, not anymore.

Posted: Mon Mar 12th, 2007 09:34 am

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thezone
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Ok, you think it is the timer, Pegi thinks it is the trans. But the question is if it is the trans, what do I replace? If it is the timer switch, another 100 bucks is thrown to a maybe?

Posted: Mon Mar 12th, 2007 11:52 am

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hvacdrd
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Here is the test to determine if it is the timer or nuetral drain. Run the wash cycle - at the end of the agitate cycle the machine will stop. Upon restart the machine will drain (no spin)-after 2-3 minutes the timer will pause for a few seconds then restart. This is the spin cycle & will last another 3-4 minutes. Then the machine stops and fills with rinse water.

If you do not see the pause (which is unlikely) the problem is in the timer. It is more common for the neutral drain mechanism to be bad. This is inside the gearcase and is easy to change, the kit comes with detailed instructions. The neutral drain works by centrifugal force & drive rotation.

It is common for the neutral drain mechanism to shift after opening the lid because you are then giving it a second "pause" which allows the cam inside to relealse.

Last edited on Mon Mar 12th, 2007 11:55 am by hvacdrd

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Posted: Wed Mar 14th, 2007 09:40 pm

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thezone
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So what is the difficulty on the beer meter for replacing the drain neutral stuff? I check the timer and it pauses for a good 5 seconds. Then when it tries to start it looks like it starts in reverse then stops. Then it just sits unless I pick up the lid and set it back down. So I am pretty sure you and Pegi are correct. The problem is in the transmission. It is just to bad I spent money on the coupler, motor and pump first when it was the tranny all along. Big Big LESSONS LEARNED on this one.

Posted: Wed Mar 14th, 2007 10:35 pm

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thezone
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I just put a heavy load of towels in the washer and it completed an entire cycle without stopping. I.e., it never stopped spinning like it was supposed to. It completed all cycles without failing. Is a tranmission problem sometimes intermittent?

Posted: Wed Mar 14th, 2007 11:11 pm

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Keinokuorma
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Yes, if a part isn't dead broken, the problem may occur intermittently.

Last edited on Wed Mar 14th, 2007 11:12 pm by Keinokuorma

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Posted: Thu Mar 15th, 2007 07:08 am

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thezone
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Does anyone have any experience replacing parts in the tranny? I am just wondering how difficult it is.

Posted: Fri Mar 16th, 2007 01:50 am

39^th Post

hvacdrd
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Once you pull the gearcase (easiest one on the market) set it upright on a workbench, have a bucket ready to pour the gear oil into. First remove the clutch assy. Then remove the top cover screws, pop off the top and drain the oil. The neutral drain assy is on the top so you don't need every drop of oil out. Follow the instructions included in the kit for which plate to use.

The fact that it sometimes works and sometimes doesn't is a common problem. They always work when we show up to check them out and quit as soon as we leave...

and the picture of the day goes to....

Attachment: gearcase2.GIF (Downloaded 92 times)

Last edited on Fri Mar 16th, 2007 02:10 am by hvacdrd

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Posted: Fri Mar 16th, 2007 04:28 am

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thezone
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Awesome picture!! No a couple of questions for the knowledgealbe...

1. How difficult is this to do (On a scale of 1-5 on the beer meter)?

2. Are there instructions anywhere?

3. Are there any special tools that I will need?

4. What kind of gear oil do I replace the old oil with? Regular 90 weight or motor oil or transmission fluid (red).

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