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AHAR
Master Appliantologist
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| Location: | Wichita Falls, Texas USA |
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Posted: Tue Feb 20th, 2007 14:53 |
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I keep getting these calls that are stumping me. I saw this same problem on a different site, but nobody answered the guy.
The code is F21. The pump is running. There isn't any water in the pump assy (I drain it while checking to be clear and unrestricted). Still had a F21 (to long of a drain). The unit was unplugged for 3 minutes, with no luck.
The sequence:Cycle set, hit start button. The door solenoid locks and the lock light come on. Only the pump starts, 4 minutes later F21. Any ideas?
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Posted: Tue Feb 20th, 2007 15:14 |
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When you checked the discharge stream during pumpout, was it the same diameter as the hose and forceful?
Also, pull out the pump cleanout and look in at the impeller. It should be clear or debris, with nothing wound around it. Should have four impeller vanes. These can get broken off by coins.
Finally, remove the discharge hose from the pump, pucker up and blow. If, after clearing the initial slug of water, the hose doesn't blow free and clear, then you have something in there.
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AHAR
Master Appliantologist
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| Location: | Wichita Falls, Texas USA |
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Posted: Tue Feb 20th, 2007 15:29 |
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I never got it to put water in the unit to check drain flow. When I first got there the pump was chugging (just alittle water left in unit).
I cleaned the trap, the pump has all of it's blades. There is no water in the tub or pump, at this point (all was drained out). Started new cycle, pump motor is quiet but running, because there's no water in unit. Still only pump is on when starting new wash, 4 min later, F21.
I checked pressure switch, it was actuating and the tube was clear. What nextLast edited on Tue Feb 20th, 2007 15:34 by AHAR
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Posted: Tue Feb 20th, 2007 15:36 |
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Refer to my first instruction: You need to get a visual on the pumpout. No way around this... unless you wanted to jump right to the pucker test on the drain hose. Your call.
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AHAR
Master Appliantologist
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| Location: | Wichita Falls, Texas USA |
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Posted: Tue Feb 20th, 2007 16:14 |
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Ok, I'll put water in it to test the pump out.
One question though, how can it trip that code when there's not water in the machine at all?
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Posted: Tue Feb 20th, 2007 16:21 |
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| Insufficient data. But if you're getting a fault code for "long drain," then logic would dictate that you would proceed by verifying this, nes pa?
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AHAR
Master Appliantologist
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Posted: Tue Feb 20th, 2007 16:32 |
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Ok, here's the data.
There is no water in the machine. Drain line is clear. Inlet hoses are installed and water at faucet is on. I power it on, select wash cycle, press and hold start. The door locks, lock light comes on, and pump starts running. Nothing else is on. All lights are normal. 4 minutes later, flashing light for seconds, then the three lights come on, indicating F21 code.
How can it trip that code when there's not water in the machine at all? Doesn't the pressure switch sense this state? Or is there something with the pump motor current draw in the main control board?
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AHAR
Master Appliantologist
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Posted: Tue Feb 20th, 2007 17:13 |
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| I have pre-rewarded any help with a Keg donation.
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Posted: Tue Feb 20th, 2007 17:34 |
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There's both a flow meter and a pressure switch. If the pump is getting voltage when it ain't awwta be, then that tells you to get your meter and the wiring diagram and figger out whah ('sept you have to say that way up in your sinuses). The tech sheet is inside the cabinet, underneath the top panel. You'll also want this service manual. Tear 'em up, Hoss! 
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AHAR
Master Appliantologist
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Posted: Tue Feb 20th, 2007 18:12 |
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I'll get back over there and check these things further. And I'll post back later.
One thing, I keep seeing that tech sheet, this unit is somewhat different. I see similar parts but the h2 has the pressure tube in the front where the pump in. Motor control in back right bottom, ccu in top right front It doesnt look like the one in your tech sheet. Is the h2 (110.46472501) a newer version?
Part #8540230 filter interference, what does this do? Just wondering......
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Pegi
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Posted: Tue Feb 20th, 2007 18:22 |
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| Tech sheet for your model number, the job aid service manual is more generic I would think if yours is newer....something is putting the unit right into drain, by-passing the fill.....flow meter? Pressure switch?
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AHAR
Master Appliantologist
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Posted: Tue Feb 20th, 2007 19:10 |
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Thank you very much, Pegi.
That's the tech sheet that I was using last night. I tried to squeeze this call in last night. I should have scheduled at a later date, with more time. I haven't had much experience with this model. But, I do understand the systems which make the unit work. I was "out there, in mid air" alot, with mr bobs. That's how I was forced to learn a great deal of the time. We had tech lines, but I was given high-end and newer units for calls. And the problems I had, the tech line didn't even know about, half the time. Plus the 30 min to hour wait just to talk. Everyone else seemed to get the drive coupling and water valves.
Again, thank you very much, Pegi, and you Mr. Samurai Appliance Repair Man.
I'll get back over there and check these things further.
Last edited on Tue Feb 20th, 2007 19:11 by AHAR
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Pegi
Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Posted: Tue Feb 20th, 2007 20:24 |
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Exerpt from the new Maytag Epic Washer which is a Duet with the Maytag tag on the washer...
PRESSURE SWITCH
The pressure switch is located in the top right
rear corner of the washer. This switch senses
water level in the wash tub. The control signal
from the pressure switch is sent to the Central
Control Unit and is used to determine the
amount of water introduced into the wash tub
during the wash cycle.
The pressure switch also senses the suds level
in the wash tub. If excessive sudsing occurs,
the washer starts an automatic suds routine.
The display will show the word “Sud.” The
automatic suds routine adds additional rinse
and drain operations until the suds level is
reduced.
If an overfill condition is detected by the pressure
switch, the CCU will turn on the drain
pump and attempt to stop filling.
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Wondering if the pressure switch or ccu senses the washer is full of water???
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Fault codes from the Maytag Epic Washer repair manual...
F/21
F/22
This error occurs if the touchpad/LED assembly is not able to transmit/receive data to/from
the central control unit (CCU).
Possible Causes / Procedure
1. Check the touchpad/LED assembly by selecting different cycles and changing the
modifiers and options available to confirm the touchpad/LED is responding.
2. Unplug washer or disconnect power.
3. Check wire harness connections to the touchpad/LED assembly and Central Control
Unit (CCU).
Maytag Epic Repair Manual
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AHAR
Master Appliantologist
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Posted: Tue Feb 20th, 2007 20:41 |
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I'm really leaning for pressure switch or ccu, (or connectors to one of these).
I'm trying to get ahold of the customer to drop back by, left a message, hasn't call back yet. Anyway, we'll see then.
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AHAR
Master Appliantologist
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Posted: Wed Feb 21st, 2007 05:14 |
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I double checked the pump, drain line, pressure tube, pressure switch (I'm not above the pucker test). All were checking good. Checked pressure switch with ohm meter, that was good. Have already ordered CCU.
I don't see any where what the voltage is for the water valve. These wires seem small for 120V. To check everything good I rechecked water to the machine, the screen and the resistance of the valves. All were good but the voltage to the valves was reading around 30V. I did this while waiting for it to trip a F21 ( which it did).
When the inlet valves are filling the drum, what should the voltage be?
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Posted: Wed Feb 21st, 2007 13:08 |
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Look on pg. 85 of the service manual that Pegi linked you to (domo, Pegi!). The drain pump, water inlet vavle, dispenser and other stuff are all directly controlled by the CCU. You'll also see that it does this by directly switching 120vac using triacs. So, hell, this makes it *too* easy: if you're getting 120vac at the drain pump when you shouldn't awwta be, then the drain pump triac on the CCU is damaged or the logic in the CCU is scrambled. Either way, part's on order!
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AHAR
Master Appliantologist
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Posted: Wed Feb 21st, 2007 14:40 |
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The 30V did have a little tickle to it, though..... (Fingers slipped off the meter probe.)
I think everyones getting their tax returns in (and fixing their appliances), because I'm booking past Monday. And I don't need to be flustered on this right now. Thanks all...
Last edited on Wed Feb 21st, 2007 15:10 by AHAR
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Rickb
Apprentice Appliantologist
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Posted: Wed Aug 15th, 2007 16:23 |
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First post.
Made the $5 donation to a good cause, and hopeful on saving a service call.
I have the EXACT issue AHAR describes here.
110.46472501 Kenmore HE2 Front loader (Whirlpool Duet apparently).
Maybe we can keep it short - What was the resolution here??
With the research I have done I'm leaning towards pressure switch and need to investigate flow meter.
I've been away from the machine since gleaning more knowledge here and on a DL'ed whirlpool service manual.
Pump is definitely functioning at high volume. Easily pumped out a couple gallons I dumped in the drum. FULL stream out of the discharge hose. House drain and trap flow freely.
I suspect a suds issue as I get some foam out the drain (house standpipe). Though a few gallons of clear water and overnight rest did not help.
I plan to check the pump/strainer tonight and ohm out the pressure switch.
Any help or followup to the original post appreciated.
RickB
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BLTH15
Sublime Master of Appliantology
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Posted: Thu Aug 16th, 2007 19:21 |
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| rick- my one and only experience with this i did what you did with the water then removed the top and disconnected the pressure switch which seemed to reset it and the unit ran fine after that. be sure to clear pump strainer first.
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AHAR
Master Appliantologist
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Posted: Thu Aug 16th, 2007 19:24 |
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I am so sorry I didn't wrap this thread up.
The problem was the pressure switch. I guess the comtacts were bad.
You could hear it actuating when you blew into the switch, but I guess bad contact.
Last edited on Fri Aug 17th, 2007 18:44 by AHAR
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