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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag Performance Dryer Won't Start |
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| Maytag Performance Dryer Won't Start | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Tue Jan 2nd, 2007 05:45 pm |
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1st Post |
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ilcalvo Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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We have a 5 year old Maytag Performance electric dryer, Model PYE2300AYW, Rev 10, that dried a load normally last night but refused to start again. Nothing happens when the timer knob is depressed to start it. I've tried to start it in all of its cycles, and I've depressed the door switch manually in case it was just the door hinges. There's power at the outlet, the drum rotates freely by hand, there was no build-up of lint in the exhaust ducting, there was no smell of burning or any noise we heard from upstairs. I've checked for loose connections at the timer and the power feed. I do have a digital multimeter. I fear she sensed that we had about six loads of wash saved up from our holiday trip, and picked this moment to go on strike. Any diagnostics or other suggestions will be greatly appreciated by this humble grasshopper!
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| Posted: Tue Jan 2nd, 2007 06:00 pm |
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2nd Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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I would suspect the fuse, reference #5 in this breakdown first, will be under and to the right of the heating element after you lift the top of the dryer...if this is bad check your vent system from the dryer to the outside for blockage, causing the dryer to overheat...
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic! 
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| Posted: Tue Jan 2nd, 2007 07:12 pm |
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3rd Post |
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ilcalvo Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Bingo! If #5 is supposed to be a fuse, it's blown. Now, where do I get a replacement fast? Is this a common item (Radio Shack, etc?).
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| Posted: Tue Jan 2nd, 2007 07:32 pm |
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4th Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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No, has to be the Maytag fuse....kit # LA-1053, has the fuse and hi-limit thermostat for the gas and electric dryers. Can order it thru this site...
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
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| Posted: Tue Jan 2nd, 2007 07:36 pm |
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5th Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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CLICK HERE Remember your dryer overheated for some reason for this fuse to open...
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
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| Posted: Wed Jan 3rd, 2007 01:31 am |
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6th Post |
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ilcalvo Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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With all the backed up laundry from the holiday visit, I didn't dare wait for parts to be delivered. I found the parts kit at a semi-local dealer, put it in and vacuumed out the exhaust ducting. It's purring again. Surprisingly, there was no exhaust blockage, but it is a long run and it did get blocked up earlier this year. Maybe that weakened the fuse? If I have any more problems with it I'll see about shortening the exhaust. Thanks for the quick responses; this site works a lot better than others I've tried!
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| Posted: Wed Jan 3rd, 2007 01:54 am |
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7th Post |
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Pegi Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Welcome, and there are no other sites that can come close to this one...
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy at RepairClinic!
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| Posted: Wed Jan 3rd, 2007 03:02 am |
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8th Post |
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ilcalvo Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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So I've seen! I used another one, something like "How To Fix It" and all I seemed to get were responses like "yeah, that happened to me once too." Not a hint of what could be done to remedy the problems. I'll bet somebody comes back with the correct fix for the squeaky brakes on the washer real fast, just like the thermal fuse issue here.
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| Posted: Wed Jan 3rd, 2007 03:10 am |
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9th Post |
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does_what_he_can Master Appliantologist 
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make sure you replace the larger thermostat that came with it. it is a hi limit and it could have weak causing the exhaust temps to be high and ultimately caused that thermal to open.
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| Posted: Wed Jan 3rd, 2007 03:18 am |
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10th Post |
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ilcalvo Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I did replace them both. The parts guy at the store told me that too. Thanks again.
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| Posted: Sat Jan 13th, 2007 10:12 pm |
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11th Post |
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RatherBeGolfing Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I have this exact same problem (albeit with the electric version). How do I get access to part #5? Do I need to remove the drum and/or remove the back of the unit to get to it? This is my first time working on a dryer but I'm fairly handy.
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| Posted: Sat Jan 13th, 2007 10:35 pm |
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12th Post |
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ilcalvo Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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I'm no pro, but this is an easy fix. No, you don't need to remove the drum, and you can do this in a half hour or so even if you've never looked inside a dryer before. First, unplug the dryer. Then you need to lift the top of the dryer. Two spring clips between the top and the front panel hold it; push them back with a putty knife or similar tool to "pop" the top and let it hinge back. The heating element, thermostat and thermal fuse will be visible to the rear of the drum. The thermostat is attached with a single 1/4" screw, and getting it out of the way will let you remove the screw that holds the heating element in (you did unplug the dryer, didn't you?). Very gently manipulate it till it's out and out of the way. The panel that holds the thermal fuse is in the right side of the box for the element. It comes out by lifting it up and out. The repair parts come as a kit containing a thermal fuse for an electric dryer, one for a gas dryer, and a thermostat that works for either. If you don't have a local source, this site can sell you the parts kit very reasonably. I paid more because I needed the dryer fixed that day! Replace both the thermal fuse (the one with the pink dot) and the (bigger) thermostat. Reverse the above directions and put it all back together. That should have done the the trick. Also, as several contributors and my parts store counterman so correctly advised me, be sure to clean out your exhaust ductwork. Your fuse probably blew because the air wasn't being exhausted properly, allowing the dryer to overheat. Mine wasn't blocked up this time, but it was blocked up last year and I suspect I weakened my fuse then. Hope this helps. The people on this site are very helpful and if I told you anything wrong, I'm confident they'll correct me. To get better attention, you might want to post a new thread if you don't get your dryer right back up and running. Rich
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| Posted: Sat Jan 13th, 2007 10:38 pm |
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13th Post |
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does_what_he_can Master Appliantologist
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you take a putty knife and feel along the seem between the top and front panels. you will stop at a clip on both ends. push in those clips and raise the top and look on the right side of the element. if you cant see it, trace the two white wires you see going down the back panel. a quater inch screw goes down through the heater. you have to remove that screw, the high limit on top of it, the element, and then you can pull up and out on that tstat.
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| Posted: Sat Jan 13th, 2007 11:36 pm |
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14th Post |
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RatherBeGolfing Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Thanks very much! Was able to do as you said, and have now removed the fuse. Thanks for preventing me from doing something stupid like removing the drum! However, I'm still not certain that the fuse was the culprit. All I know is that the dryer stopped working. I confirmed that I had power to the unit, but that's all. And the light inside the dryer isn't working either. Only reason I thing/thought it was the fuse was based on similar threads on the same machine. Will test the fuse and hopefully that's the problem. Thanks again!
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| Posted: Sat Jan 13th, 2007 11:48 pm |
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15th Post |
richapplianceguy
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High limit thermostats very rarely cause a dryer to overheat,they are there to back up the main cycling thermostat if it allows a higher than normal temperature.Normally the fuze will blow before that thermostat opens. When I see a bad thermal fuze I allways check the exhaust temp with a oven thermometer. Sometimes the cycling thermostat is really bad!!
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| Posted: Sun Jan 14th, 2007 12:12 am |
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16th Post |
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does_what_he_can Master Appliantologist
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if you have no light in the drum, you may have a burned cord on the back of the dryer. you need to take off the cover on the back and inspect the cord for burns or melted wires.
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| Posted: Sun Jan 14th, 2007 03:58 am |
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17th Post |
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RatherBeGolfing Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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First thing I did was to check the cord. It seems fine - I'm hot at the source and I removed the cover where the cord is attached to the unit and everything seems fine there as well. My wife did say she smelled a burned smell when it first conked-out, but I haven't smelled anything since.
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