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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Kenmore Series 80 washer spins weakly-direct drive

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Kenmore Series 80 washer spins weakly-direct drive  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sun Nov 19th, 2006 05:04 pm
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dannheisser
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the spin cycle slips especially with a heavier load. is there a clutch of some sort that wears out?

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 Posted: Sun Nov 19th, 2006 05:47 pm
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nickfixit
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Yes, your clutch may be worn out, or the gearcase has leaked some oil and fouled the clutch band.

Post the model number and we could give more specific info.

Nick



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 Posted: Sun Nov 19th, 2006 05:51 pm
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dannheisser
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110.23832100

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 Posted: Sun Nov 19th, 2006 06:05 pm
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nickfixit
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That's a Whirlpool built direct drive washer.

The clutch is Whirlpool part # 285785

You need to remove the cabinet and inspect the area around the gearcase and clutch for oil. If you find a lot of oil, you'll need to replace the gearcase. You could also just lean it back and look from the bottom.

Nick



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 Posted: Sun Nov 19th, 2006 06:23 pm
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dannheisser
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didn't see any oil. is the clutch different than the coupler?

 

can either cause this symptom?

Last edited on Sun Nov 19th, 2006 06:28 pm by dannheisser

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 Posted: Sun Nov 19th, 2006 07:50 pm
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BLTH15

 

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yes they are 2 seperate parts and have different functions. you probably need a gearcase and clutch to take care of your problem, you can try just the clutch 1st if that works then return the g/c i replace both when i do it. all parts available thru this site.

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 Posted: Mon Nov 27th, 2006 07:55 pm
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dannheisser
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Hi again. I looked again and noticed that there is a small amount of oil on the trans case. Does this mean the gearcase is shot? I assume that it is not advisable to replace the gearcase and clutch for around $200 due to the cost.

The washer can be made to spin by helping it get started by hand. Do any of these symptoms help determine if the gearcase or clutch is bad?

 

 

Thanks

Last edited on Mon Nov 27th, 2006 07:59 pm by dannheisser

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 Posted: Tue Nov 28th, 2006 03:47 am
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hvacdrd
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Rule out the drive block as a possible problem as well.  Take a look at this link and you should be able to narrow down the problem.



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 Posted: Tue Nov 28th, 2006 04:06 am
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dannheisser
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thanks

 

I"ll remove the cover and take a look. Is one of those components the "clutch"?

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 Posted: Tue Nov 28th, 2006 04:24 am
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hvacdrd
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This should help

 

Attachment: Gearcase.bmp (Downloaded 311 times)



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 Posted: Wed Nov 29th, 2006 12:46 am
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dannheisser
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Sorry for another ?. I have searched and searched the forum but can't figure out how to remove this plastic assembly to remove the agitator so i can remove the drive shaft.

Attachment: washer.JPG (Downloaded 297 times)

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 Posted: Wed Nov 29th, 2006 12:50 am
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Pegi
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That looks like the type of set up that is designed for your 1/2 inch socket extention, insert it into the square hole in the middle to remove that housing then you will have access to the bolt to remove so can pull the agitator out...



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 Posted: Mon Sep 8th, 2008 06:42 pm
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dje123
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dannheisser wrote:

The washer can be made to spin by helping it get started by hand. Do any of these symptoms help determine if the gearcase or clutch is bad?
I have the  same  problem did  u have any luck on fixing  urs  yet?



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 Posted: Mon Oct 6th, 2008 12:21 am
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jpthorndike
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I had same problem on my Whirlpool top load direct drive. After reading several of the related links (repeatedly) and then making the donation of $5 to enable viewing the drawings and pictures, I dissassembled the machine's drive and found that the clutch was the only culpret. I suspect we overloaded the machine too many times and it slowly but unltimately spent the clutch pads, metal surfaces and probably weakened the clutch spring. The break assembly is probably a little weak than spec as I did not replace any of those parts, but it stops the new and improved spin pretty quickly. I had no gear oil present on the drive parts which was a good sign that the transmition was still ok. And I didn't tip the transmition over for very long while waiting for parts to arrive, which could have caused the gear oil to leak out of a super tiny vent hole on the top of the gear case. So I just purchased the $35 clutch assmebly only + $8 shipping (or there abouts) and received it in less than a week after ordered. After I installed it and the machine, it spins like a top during the spin cycles. It accelarates up to full speed so much more quickly; like night and day compared to using the spent clutch. Thank you Guru San's for the website forum. Back in the old days, before the internet, many of us would be either scrapping the machine for a several hundred dollar replacement or paying $90 per hour for a service tech to make it all better. $5 and a couple hours of research seems like a no-brainer plus it was a little adventure.

Thanks again!

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