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Whirlpool LE7680XSN1  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Wed Nov 15th, 2006 04:32 am
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poetwarrior
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I know that some part needs to be replaced, but I don't know if I have to get just a fuse or the entire heating element.

It tumbles fine, and I recently cleaned out all the accumulated lint (from previous owner) but now it won't even heat when drying.

Help!

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 Posted: Wed Nov 15th, 2006 06:18 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Konichiwa! First, I must compliment you on your fine avatar. It brings back memories of the Old Country.

You'll need to use a multimeter to test the heating element and the thermal fuse. This is much easier than it sounds and you can buy decent meters for about $20. This page explains how to use it: http://fixitnow.com/2004/12/appliance-repair-revelation-making.htm

Lemme know when you're ready and we'll rockem sockem!

Last edited on Fri Nov 17th, 2006 12:00 am by Samurai Appliance Repair Man



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 Posted: Thu Nov 16th, 2006 11:41 pm
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poetwarrior
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Thanks!  I just ordered the multimeter...though it's going to take awhile to get here (can't afford overnight shipping).  I will bookmark the page you linked to so I can find it easily.

And you're welcome concerning the avatar.  I got it from a renga site.

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 Posted: Thu Nov 16th, 2006 11:46 pm
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cdwasher
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You can get by with a neon test light for now if know how to use one post back,cdwasher trying to help

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 Posted: Fri Nov 17th, 2006 12:18 am
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poetwarrior
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That's okay.  I've already paid for the multimeter, which actually listed at $15.  That's small change, really, as the shipping was $7.95 extra.  I'd rather have a precision tool rather than anything else that I'd have to guess at.  After all, just because I have mechanical aptitude does not mean I have the training to use a short-cut device (which I'd still have to pay for anyway).

Thanks for the info, though.

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 Posted: Tue Nov 21st, 2006 04:10 pm
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poetwarrior
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Okay.  I've got my multimeter. Which parts do I test?

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 Posted: Tue Nov 21st, 2006 04:58 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Ok, we rockin' now. First off, check for proper supply voltage at the dryer's wall outlet-- should have both 120vac and 240vac.





Next, unplug the dryer and remove the back panel of the dryer; here's what you'll see:



You need to check for continuity on the heating element and all the thermostats and thermal cut-offs, limits, and fuses. Remember to remove at least one wire from the component being tested before applying the probes to make your measurement. The one that reads open or very high resistance is bad-- replace it and problem solved.

And remember to UNPLUG the dryer BEFORE removing the back panel. :)

Last edited on Tue Nov 21st, 2006 05:04 pm by Samurai Appliance Repair Man



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 Posted: Mon Nov 27th, 2006 02:02 am
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poetwarrior
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Well, that picture of the back of the dryer tells me partially about the dryer I have.  Mine seems to be a bit older than that, and while many of the larger parts correspond, the smaller connections do not.

Not only that, but I don't have a multimeter with a clamp--only prongs--and for some reason after attempting to test the resistance (using a dial-fronted multimeter) I noticed a plastic tube was disconnected, so I put it where it seemed to go (attached to a plastic housing of unknown function) and put the wires back.  Then, after refastening the back and plugging in the dryer, it doesn't even spin anymore!:poison:

What did I do wrong?  Please inform this grasshopper of her errors.

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 Posted: Mon Nov 27th, 2006 02:36 am
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cdwasher
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The plastic hose is there to let you know when the filter is blocked (NEVER WORKED) you may have posted the model # I don't see it,but if you have a little white fuse check out for conditnuity,if open you will not get heat and on some models no operation,also check for 240 volts on rear of dryer terminals(TWO OUTSIDE SCREWS) post back cdwasher trying to help.

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 Posted: Mon Nov 27th, 2006 03:57 am
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poetwarrior
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The topic name states the model number.  That was the option I was given when I posted, so I went with that.

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 Posted: Mon Nov 27th, 2006 04:06 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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poetwarrior wrote:  I noticed a plastic tube was disconnected, so I put it where it seemed to go (attached to a plastic housing of unknown function) and put the wires back.  Then, after refastening the back and plugging in the dryer, it doesn't even spin anymore!:poison:

Ruh-row, big trouble in Little China... or maybe not.  I'm sure Master cdwasher is correct that the tube is the lint filter sensor but could you post a photo of the suspect tube so we can feast our bugged-out and blood-shot peepers upon it? 

Ditto cdwasher's recommendation to check continuity of the thermal fuse (the white plastic thingy with two wires attached to it).

Reminder:  continuity tests are done with the dryer UNPLUGGED and at least one of the wires removed from the component being tested.  Can I hear an "Om shanti?"



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 Posted: Mon Nov 27th, 2006 04:15 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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One other thang that might hepya (introducing some regional dialect for flavour)-- I have a diagram of the bulkhead (that's appliance geek talk for "back") of the dryer, which also shows the hose I think you're referring to:  http://tinyurl.com/vzms5



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 Posted: Sat Dec 9th, 2006 02:20 am
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poetwarrior
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Well, I replaced the thermal fuse, the heating element and the other fuse (the one that attaches to the heating element housing).  But when I turned on the dryer, it started smoking!  It overheat on the high setting (which for some reason used to operate at a very low heating level).

Did I replace the wrong type of part somewhere?  Where did I go wrong?  Should I just set it at a lower setting than what I'm used to?

Last edited on Sat Dec 9th, 2006 02:22 am by poetwarrior

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 Posted: Sat Dec 9th, 2006 05:58 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Ok, let's step through it. First, we need to find where the smoking is coming from. If the element, that's typical when heat is restored to a dryer that's been out of action for a while-- just built up lint burning off. If the motor, that's bad. Real bad.

This is plug 'n chug and dryers are the easiest appliances to work on. So this was a good one to get your feet wet on. As long as you made sure you put the new components in the right location and didn't cross up any wires (you marked 'em, made a photo before you started, or, like I do, change out one wire at a time from old to new component) then you should be all set.

You didn't trip any breakers so that's a good sign. Usually, if something is crosswired, you'll trip the breaker right off the bat.

You may want to open the front panel (UNPLUG THE DRYER FIRST) and eyeball how much lint is in there. If you have a mat of lint all over everything, vacuum it out. Use a flashlight to avoid knocking loose wires and to see where you need to get. Get around the motor especially because that lint will wick the oil out of the bearing and fry the motor.

Don't sweat the load; you're doing fine and we'll get it running. :dude:



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 Posted: Sat Dec 9th, 2006 09:12 am
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poetwarrior
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At least that's what's going on.  I did clear out the lint--the previous owner really let it go!  Should I run it for awhile empty just so it can get used to the new heating element?

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 Posted: Sat Dec 9th, 2006 02:25 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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After you've double-checked your work, let the dryer run for a couple minutes, maybe with a fire extinguisher at the ready just in case. I'll bet my wooden teeth that the smoking subsides.



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 Posted: Mon Dec 11th, 2006 06:35 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Did you survive the second run?

I found this old post at my website that may inspire more confidence in you: http://fixitnow.com/2005/07/mailbag-burning-smell-in-dryer-after.htm



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