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Maytag electric dyer turns off after 7 seconds....

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Posted: Mon Nov 6th, 2006 11:58 pm

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mxl360
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May tag legacy series SDE3606A
I just purchase a used electric maytag legacy series dryer. Previous owner said it worked before it was delivered. When I push the start button, it would only turn on for about 7 seconds. Also I would have to wait 1-2 minutes before i can start it again.

Here's what I've checked
The vent has no outlet, so it is free flowing.
Held the door switch.
Held the start button.

Would a faulty 220v outlet allow the dryer to start?
Any other ideas?

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Posted: Tue Nov 7th, 2006 03:31 am

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Trying to help
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Sounds like we have something hooked up there incorrectly there mxl360. Either at our terminal block (place where line cord hooks up to interior dryer wires) or your outlet. IF it was working prior to you getting the unit. When it does run for those few seconds does it sound abnormally loud? Do you have a meter we could check your outlet and voltage coming in? Behind the control panel is a schematic. Make sure your terminal block is wired correctly as for the interior wires. Is the new line cord a 3 or 4 wire one? Post back and we will get you going.

This might help as well.

http://fixitnow.com/2004/08/appliance-repair-revelation-mysteries.htm

Last edited on Tue Nov 7th, 2006 03:34 am by Trying to help

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Posted: Tue Nov 7th, 2006 03:42 am

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mxl360
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it does sound abnormally loud.. its a 3 prong plug. The terminal block work fine on my previous dryer (but that terminal hasn't been used for 1.5 years) . To test the terminal what exactly should i get?

Trying to help wrote: Sounds like we have something hooked up there incorrectly there mxl360. Either at our terminal block (place where line cord hooks up to interior dryer wires) or your outlet. IF it was working prior to you getting the unit. When it does run for those few seconds does it sound abnormally loud? Do you have a meter we could check your outlet and voltage coming in? Behind the control panel is a schematic. Make sure your terminal block is wired correctly as for the interior wires. Is the new line cord a 3 or 4 wire one? Post back and we will get you going.

This might help as well.

http://fixitnow.com/2004/08/appliance-repair-revelation-mysteries.htm

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Posted: Wed Nov 8th, 2006 02:05 am

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mxl360
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Should i use a voltage test like this?

Last edited on Wed Nov 8th, 2006 11:25 pm by

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Posted: Wed Nov 8th, 2006 07:51 pm

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does_what_he_can
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you can use that meter to test if you know how to use it. unplug the dryer and trace the power cord wires to the block where it wires to the dryer. make sure the center wire in the cord is wired to the center post. the two outer wires go to the outer posts. check those wires carefully and make sure they arent miswired and you are not doubling the power to the motor.

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Posted: Wed Nov 8th, 2006 10:05 pm

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mxl360
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does_what_he_can wrote: make sure the center wire in the cord is wired to the center post. the two outer wires go to the outer posts...... make sure they arent miswired and you are not doubling the power to the motor.

center post? there's only two wires on the tester....also what is doubling the power?

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Posted: Wed Nov 8th, 2006 10:08 pm

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Keinokuorma
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this "power doubling" will actually double the voltage and quadruple the power. It comes from the fact that the dryer outlet is wired with two live legs and a neutral from between their voltage potential. This is much like two batteries wired in series. Between the Neutral and either live leg you can measure some 110-120V, and depending on how the other live leg is hooked from the network, between the two legs you should be able to measure either 190-215V or 220-240V. Either are normal, and if the dryer is correctly wired, it does not affect anything except the heating performance.

If this is a three wire connection, with chassis grounded to the strap on the center post, this kind of miswiring that would double the motor voltage will also cause the chassis to be live. If it is four wires wired to a three prong plug, with the Ground wire connected onto the Neutral prong, and used separately to ground the chassis, it will be safe to touch. As you haven't fried yourself yet, it's either the latter scheme or some other problem, I believe.

If this is a motor with a start relay, does the start relay release? If not, it will overheat, and it is possible that it will run with excessive noise. If it relies entirely on a capacitor to start and run, is the cap good? Sometimes if it's going bad, the motor can be noisy and lazy, and will overheat too.

Does the rotor turn freely, drum not stuck, etc?

Last edited on Wed Nov 8th, 2006 10:23 pm by Keinokuorma

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Posted: Wed Nov 8th, 2006 10:15 pm

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Pegi
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""center post? there's only two wires on the tester....also what is doubling the power?""

The terminal block the power cord goes onto has three posts, the cord for the dryer attaches to this terminal block....if this is wired wrong you could have 240 volts to the motor, instead of 120 volts...

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Posted: Wed Nov 8th, 2006 10:19 pm

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mxl360
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Pegi wrote: ""center post? there's only two wires on the tester....also what is doubling the power?""

The terminal block the power cord goes onto has three posts, the cord for the dryer attaches to this terminal block....if this is wired wrong you could have 240 volts to the motor, instead of 120 volts...

I had an older dryer previously attached it this terminal for 7 years...it always worked (so I doubt the wiring is bad). But since I haven't used that terminal in 1.5 years I thought I should test it. I'm still confused, if the test has two post, and the terminal has 3 post, do I just connect the two parellel post on the terminal?

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Posted: Wed Nov 8th, 2006 10:27 pm

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Keinokuorma
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First, select an at least 250V AC span, touch the black COM/MINUS wire of the meter to the center post. Then touch the red PLUS wire at each of the side posts in turn... both should give some 120V reading. Then, no matter which way, touch the meter wires right on the side posts. You should get readings either in the 208V or 240V range, like I explained a few posts earlier.

Your old dryer worked so it was correctly wired with its own cord... did you or someone else wire that cord to your new dryer, or is it newly wired with its own cord?

Oh, be sure to select an AC voltage span. If you select DC, the meter will give erratic or zero readings on a symmetric AC source.

Last edited on Wed Nov 8th, 2006 10:30 pm by Keinokuorma

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Posted: Wed Nov 8th, 2006 10:27 pm

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Pegi
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Sorry, your words are confusing to me and I have no clue what you are referring to ..."".if the test has two post""

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Posted: Wed Nov 8th, 2006 10:34 pm

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mxl360
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Keinokuorma wrote: First, select an at least 250V AC span, touch the black COM/MINUS wire of the meter to the center post. Then touch the red PLUS wire at each of the side posts in turn... both should give some 120V reading. Then, no matter which way, touch the meter wires right on the side posts. You should get readings either in the 208V or 240V range, like I explained a few posts earlier.
OK I think i understood that... I will be going to radio shack

Not sure if this mean anything, but I got a BIG shock going through my arm while trying to unplug the terminal from the PLUG. Since then I've worn gloves.

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Posted: Wed Nov 8th, 2006 10:40 pm

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Keinokuorma
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mxl360 wrote: Not sure if this mean anything, but I got a BIG shock going through my arm while trying to unplug the terminal from the PLUG. Since then I've worn gloves.

If measuring the voltage from the wall socket, no need to remove wires but just pull out the plug... but hey, were you leaning agaist the dryer chassis, and your hand touched the washer or another appliance when you reached at the plug? If this is so, whip your meter between the dryer and washer chassi, bare metal if possible... if you get a voltage reading, I'm quite sure the dryer is miswired at some point. Either plug end or terminal block.

Anyway, G-SUZZ, you are a lucky man to be posting back. This is a good reason for leaving such wiring jobs to the electrician, if in any doubt of your own skills.

Last edited on Wed Nov 8th, 2006 10:45 pm by Keinokuorma

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Posted: Wed Nov 8th, 2006 10:46 pm

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Pegi
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**Anyway, G-SUZZ, you are a lucky man to be posting back** That is an understatement ..... :shock:

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Posted: Wed Nov 8th, 2006 10:47 pm

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mxl360
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Keinokuorma wrote: mxl360 wrote: Not sure if this mean anything, but I got a BIG shock going through my arm while trying to unplug the terminal from the PLUG. Since then I've worn gloves.

If measuring the voltage from the wall socket, no need to remove wires but just pull out the plug... but hey, were you leaning agaist the dryer chassis, and your hand touched the washer or another appliance when you reached at the plug? If this is so, whip your meter between the dryer and washer chassi, bare metal if possible... if you get a voltage reading, I'm quite sure the dryer is miswired at some point. Either plug end or terminal block.

Anyway, G-SUZZ, you are a lucky man to be posting back.
Yes I had to lean against the dryer to unplug it...
I'll be measuring the voltaga from a loose terminal block.
I wasn't planning to remove any wires?...or pull out any plug. ?
I'm confused now...

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Posted: Wed Nov 8th, 2006 10:50 pm

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mxl360
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did I get shock because there's some defect? I mean anyone could of unplugged anything while touching some appliance (I assume I made some type of ground connection while touching the dryer)....

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Posted: Wed Nov 8th, 2006 11:05 pm

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Keinokuorma
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Pegi wrote: **Anyway, G-SUZZ, you are a lucky man to be posting back** That is an understatement ..... :shock:

You're right.

I had a fellow electrician friend who intentionally did a botched wiring job like this that electrocuted him. Didn't choose a pleasant way to go, no.

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Posted: Wed Nov 8th, 2006 11:10 pm

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Keinokuorma
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mxl360 wrote: did I get shock because there's some defect? I mean anyone could of unplugged anything while touching some appliance (I assume I made some type of ground connection while touching the dryer)....

If (and I believe, when) it is a mis-wired three wire connection, the chassis will be at live 120V voltage at all times, and the motor and control panel etc are wired to 240V power, which is not the intended way. Only the heating element is intended to work with 240V, and the chassis is intended to be wired tothe Neutral prong of the plug. This is one of the dangers of the three wire system. A dedicated ground wire (4 wire system) is the way to go.

Before anything worse happens, call the electrician.

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Posted: Wed Nov 8th, 2006 11:23 pm

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Keinokuorma
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And please, turn off the breakers to the dryer circuit before anyone else unknowingly tries their luck by entering the laundry room. Remove the cord from the outlet only then.

Now if you want to troubleshoot this yourself, you can ohm out the wiring, from each plug prong to terminal post, middle prong is to be wired into middle post that will either have the ground strap, or with a wire loop to the chassis.. each side prong is to be wired to a side post, no matter which way. If a side prong on the plug is wired to the strapped post, there's the wiring fault. It is now safe to change the wiring. Never tamper with a live circuit or a plugged-in appliance.

Last edited on Wed Nov 8th, 2006 11:24 pm by Keinokuorma

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Posted: Wed Nov 8th, 2006 11:38 pm

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mxl360
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Keinokuorma wrote: And please, turn off the breakers to the dryer circuit before anyone else unknowingly tries their luck by entering the laundry room. Remove the cord from the outlet only then.

Now if you want to troubleshoot this yourself, you can ohm out the wiring, from each plug prong to terminal post, middle prong is to be wired into middle post that will either have the ground strap, or with a wire loop to the chassis.. each side prong is to be wired to a side post, no matter which way. If a side prong on the plug is wired to the strapped post, there's the wiring fault. It is now safe to change the wiring. Never tamper with a live circuit or a plugged-in appliance.

The breaker has been shut off now. What is the strapped post?

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