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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Frigidaire model FWT449GFS2 washer won't final spin |
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| Frigidaire model FWT449GFS2 washer won't final spin | Rate Topic |
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| Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2006 05:54 am |
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1st Post |
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Cyberman Grasshopper
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Hi, this is my first time posting on this forum. I hope that someone can help me out and save me from buying a new washer. I have the following model washer: FWT449GFS2 I just moved and during the move one of my friends dropped the washer on its face. It looks like the switch received most of the damage as it is the part that sticks out the most. However, there are scrathes on the door, the left side of the soap dispenser and of course the switch. Surprisingly, it seems like the washer is working BUT it won't do the final spin. What do you guys think? Could it be the switch? Any help would be greatly appreciated! Ed
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| Posted: Wed Nov 1st, 2006 04:03 am |
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2nd Post |
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Cyberman Grasshopper
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bump
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| Posted: Wed Nov 1st, 2006 08:20 pm |
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3rd Post |
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Keinokuorma Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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Front loader... probably the door hinge is bent or catch/lock took it personally. Lock may be just dislocated so that it doesn't sense the door properly seated. If you need new parts, here goes: Catch: http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1032664 Hinge: http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=1037977 Lock: http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=820920 If the front panel got warped, it may cause this too. Check carefylly for any deformity. Last edited on Wed Nov 1st, 2006 08:22 pm by Keinokuorma ____________________ "There is no reason anyone would want a computer in their home." - Ken Olson, Digital Equipment Corporation (1977) |
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| Posted: Thu Nov 2nd, 2006 07:30 am |
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4th Post |
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Cyberman Grasshopper
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would the door latch being broken prevent the final spin from working properly? or not working at all as in my case? Last edited on Thu Nov 2nd, 2006 07:31 am by Cyberman |
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| Posted: Thu Nov 2nd, 2006 09:01 am |
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5th Post |
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Keinokuorma Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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It probably would do that... most modern front loaders will lock the door at least during final spin, some for all of the washing time. This is a safety measure. High speed spin will not start unless door is properly latched and the lock mechanism manages to engage. There are switches in the lock mechanism to sense both events. Quite a mess of wires entering the lock assembly if you look at the pics. Before ordering parts, check if you have a warped hinge or front panel, and if you can force them back to shape. Also it is possible that some connection has become loose... but the missing final spin points heavily to a problem with getting the door properly latched. Last edited on Thu Nov 2nd, 2006 09:08 am by Keinokuorma ____________________ "There is no reason anyone would want a computer in their home." - Ken Olson, Digital Equipment Corporation (1977) |
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| Posted: Fri Nov 3rd, 2006 04:34 am |
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6th Post |
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Cyberman Grasshopper
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it doesn't look like the door or hinge is warped. also, i checked if there were any power cables disconnected from the door latch/catch. everything seems to be fine. the door locked light is ON when it reaches the final spin and you can't open the door. doesn't that mean that the door latch is fine? i tried to run the final spin cycle once again and banged on the door both at the hinge side and the door latch side. didn't do anything. it tries to start spinning but then stops and doesn't move after that. what's the best way to replace the door latch? it is very difficult to access it from either above or below. do i need to remove the front panel? if so, how do i remove it? Last edited on Fri Nov 3rd, 2006 04:34 am by Cyberman |
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| Posted: Fri Nov 3rd, 2006 07:52 am |
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7th Post |
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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It is a tight fit, but if you remove the timer and pull it out of the way and have a helper or wedge something to push the tub to the back you can reach down from the top and get to the wires and connectors. Two screws from the front should hold the lock/switch assembly in place, once these are removed you can pull it up closer to the top to remove wiring.
____________________ William Burk (Willie) Willie's Budget Appliance Repair Eureka, CA 95501 |
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| Posted: Fri Nov 3rd, 2006 10:05 am |
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8th Post |
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Keinokuorma Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Budget Appliance Repair wrote: It is a tight fit, but if you remove the timer and pull it out of the way and have a helper or wedge something to push the tub to the back you can reach down from the top and get to the wires and connectors. Anyway you're also thinking along the lines that the lock is somewhat bothered?  it is possible that the balance sensing circuit has taken it personally too. Tub may have yanked around and bashed a switch in the process... Counterweights loose? Suspenders/springs detached? Check well. Dang, this should have crossed my mind a bit earlier.Last edited on Fri Nov 3rd, 2006 11:40 am by Keinokuorma ____________________ "There is no reason anyone would want a computer in their home." - Ken Olson, Digital Equipment Corporation (1977) |
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| Posted: Fri Nov 3rd, 2006 05:13 pm |
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9th Post |
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Cyberman Grasshopper
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how will i know if a switch got damaged without replacing it? also, can you please tell me where all the parts you might think are defective located? counterweights are on the tub right? where are the suspenders/springs you are referring to located? Last edited on Fri Nov 3rd, 2006 05:17 pm by Cyberman |
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| Posted: Fri Nov 3rd, 2006 08:03 pm |
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10th Post |
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Keinokuorma Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Balance switch(es) would be located so that the tub hits them if it wobbles around heavily. Sometimes they are mounted on the tub and will need to hit the chassis. Shock absorbers and springs (=suspension) connect the tub to chassis. This machine has been listed with a separate spin control circuit. Balance sensors would be wired to it. Best method to test balance switch is multimeter: Continuity beep, or the 100 ohm span. The switch may be either open or close when not actuated, and then change status when actuated. If there ar more than one switch, compare their function. Counterweights would be two massive pieces of concrete or similar stuff attched to bottom of tub.
____________________ "There is no reason anyone would want a computer in their home." - Ken Olson, Digital Equipment Corporation (1977) |
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| Posted: Fri Nov 3rd, 2006 11:32 pm |
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11th Post |
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AccApp Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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There are no balance switches on this unit. The speed control unit can sense an out-of-balance condition from the feedback it receives from the motor/tach.
____________________ "When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Fri Nov 3rd, 2006 11:51 pm |
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12th Post |
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Keinokuorma Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Nice to know... AccApp, what do you reckon is the cause of this problem?
____________________ "There is no reason anyone would want a computer in their home." - Ken Olson, Digital Equipment Corporation (1977) |
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| Posted: Sat Nov 4th, 2006 02:12 am |
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13th Post |
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AccApp Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Sounds like a bad timer or a failed SCU, easy enough to check with the cheat sheet in the unit.
____________________ "When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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| Posted: Sat Nov 4th, 2006 06:15 am |
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14th Post |
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Cyberman Grasshopper
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AccApp wrote: Sounds like a bad timer or a failed SCU, easy enough to check with the cheat sheet in the unit. dang, i don't have the cheat sheet. i must've ripped it out when i first got the washer. anywhere i can find a copy of that?
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| Posted: Sat Nov 4th, 2006 08:01 am |
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15th Post |
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Keinokuorma Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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AccApp wrote: Sounds like a bad timer or a failed SCU, easy enough to check with the cheat sheet in the unit. It wouldn't be above the timer to lose just the final spin, but I have a hunch that the SCU can have a board fracture after the fall. I initially had a strong feeling about the lock, because the machine fell on the front side... anyway, such bang can damage many things.
____________________ "There is no reason anyone would want a computer in their home." - Ken Olson, Digital Equipment Corporation (1977) |
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| Posted: Fri Nov 10th, 2006 08:05 pm |
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16th Post |
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Cyberman Grasshopper
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ok, i will attempt to troubleshoot it now. wish me luck 
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| ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Laundry Appliance Repair Forum > Frigidaire model FWT449GFS2 washer won't final spin | Top |
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