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Kenmore Dryer Too Hot  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Sun Jun 5th, 2005 04:48 am
   
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Pegi
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You cannot use the element, it is damaged.  It will have to be replaced.  You cannot re-attach the two broken ends.. Twisting them together will only cause the same problem within days or sooner. Your dryer/house is worth more than a new element.  Look at the damage it already did to the wires.  Sleep better at night knowing a new element is in the dryer and be thankful he saw the orange glow and asked what to do and was told to UNPLUG THE THING......:poison:



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 Posted: Sun Jun 5th, 2005 11:32 am
   
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Budget Appliance Repair
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I think you guys maybe missing what Donna actually said....

"Inside I found that two sections of the heating element (curly wire) were bent and touching other sections of the element"

Her element is not broken, may be able to get away with using the element but as other suggested, for the price and piece of mind, replace it while you have it apart.

Then she goes on to say "There are two red wires coming off the heating element. One is connected to a 2nd red wire attached w/a plastic cap and leading to the other wires that are inside the dryer. The 3rd red wire--the 2nd one coming off the heating element is exposed. There is a 4th red wire w/a plastic cap on the end of it. There are no other wires attached to this 2nd plastic cap (wire nut). Should the exposed red wire be attached to the 4th red wire?"

Obviously one of the wires on that previously replaced elements have broken off at the wire nut that was used to install the replacement element. There is a good chance that that bare wire was touching to the frame and if the leg that was still attached to the element was coming from the timer that would explain the element being on without the dryer running, and probably the reason she hasn't had a fire, when the timer goes to off the element would shutoff if the above senerio where true.

So, "Yes, Donna", that one exposed wire coming from the element should be connected to that "2nd plastic cap (wire nut) that no other wires are hooked to".

The wiring diagram would usually be found glued to the back of the cabinet just to the right of the power cord or sometimes in the consule area folded up. If you see a spot that looks like old glue to the right of the power cord then the wiring diagram is most likely long gone.






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 Posted: Tue Jun 7th, 2005 02:48 am
   
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GLC



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Hi Donna, The dryer element will glow orange, then the element will cut off when it reaches proper temperature, the come back on as the temp cools down.  It should repeat this as the heat cycles on and off and is drying the clothes.
As far as what wire should be placed where that is not something that I would comment on without being at that persons dryer.  Or, at the very least seeing the wiring diagram for that exact unit.  I just want you to know that we have not forgotten you here but I would feel better waiting for Budget Appliance Repair to comment further on this as that was his recommendation.  So please be patient and hopefully he (or some one else with more insight) will sign back onto the site soon and be able to help you further.



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 Posted: Tue Jun 7th, 2005 03:48 am
   
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Pegi
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Sounds like you still have something grounded in the heating circut or the dryer vent to the outside is blocked.  If the case if hot either there is no air flow from the dryer or the element is not shutting off.  See if the element is cycling.  Take the vent hose off and insert a thermometer inside of the vent housing where the hose attached and turn the dryer on to high heat.  See what temperature the element is cycling off at, should be around 150* or so.  If it is going to 170, 180 there is something wrong, the element is not cycling off on the cycling thermostat, the one on the vent housing or the heat circuit is still grounded somewhere.



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 Posted: Tue Jun 7th, 2005 01:52 pm
   
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kdog
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if you let the dryer run through a cycle on its own,the timer should eventually count down and end the cycle,at this point,the clothes should not be hot,as there is a cooldown built into the cycle. otherwise,the grounding of the element may have caused sufficient heat in the timer contacts to weld them



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 Posted: Tue Jun 7th, 2005 05:29 pm
   
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Pegi
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Your dryer timer has contacts that give power to the motor and the heat circuit for each different cycle.  Each cycle has a cool down period before the dryer stops.  Normal cycle has a 5 minute cool down and PP has a 10 minute cool down.  When the dryer timer is turned toward  the off postiion you normally hear 2 clicks before the dryer stops, the first click close to the off postion is the contacts opening to the heating element, the second click is the timer contacts opening to the motor.  With your dryer off turn your timer to a drying cycle then slowly turn this timer toward the off position, see if you hear 2 clicks before the off position or only one.  If you do not hear the 2 clicks the contacts to the heating element may be welded together, not opening the contact to the heating element for the cool down cycle.  If that has happened you would have to replace the timer or see if they can be seperated inside of the timer, but you would not want to try doing this since this could damage your timer if this is not the problem and may end up replacing something that is not broken.   You could also turn your dryer on to a heat cycle and let it heat up.  Slowly turn the timer toward the off position.  If you hear a click and the dryer keeps running this would be the click that should cut power to the heating element.  If the click is not there and the click that is there shuts the motor down, the timer may be damaged, the grounded element my have welded these heating element contacts together inside of the timer.  Grounded elements cause all sorts of other damage and this is all Kdog was referring to.  The element grounded may have caused other damage to other parts in your dryer.



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 Posted: Tue Jun 7th, 2005 06:40 pm
   
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Pegi
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Good, when the dryer was running and heating and you got to the first click, does the heat shut off and stay off till the dryer shuts off at the second click?  You can test this by removing the vent hose from the dryer and when you hear the first click feel the air from the dryer exhaust to see if it cools down and stays cool, and not staying hot or getting hot again.  Also when you open the door the motor shuts off which kills power to the heating element now, not like when you had the grounded element.  If the cycling thermostat, which is on the vent housing your lint filter slides into was bad, it could cause your dryer to over heat, however it would be out of the system in cool down, the whole heat circuit is out of the system during cool down, unless something is still shorted or grounded.

 

Last edited on Tue Jun 7th, 2005 06:44 pm by Pegi



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 Posted: Fri Jun 10th, 2005 05:06 am
   
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Hi - Just to maybe help you understand a bit more.  Remember on the old cars there were "points" contacts in the distributer that could get arced (welded) together?  Well there are many "points" inside a timer.  There is a plastic cam ( a wheel with high spots and low spots maded into it)  As the wheel (cam) is turning slowly by the timer motor these contacts are riding accross them.  As one high spot comes around it takes those two contacts and pushes them together.  As the timer motor is still making the timer cam turn very slowly other cams (low spot and high spots) come around causing different points or contacts to be able to come in "contact" with each other.  Each pair of contacts is controlled by that timers high spots and low spots on that cam and completes (makes or breaks) one opertation of each part of the dryer.  There is one set of contacts for the motor to start and stop.  There is another set of contacts in there for the heater to go on and off, etc and etc.  If the two contacts that should (by seperating by the cam turning, are welded or stuck togher, that may be why it is not cooling down. 
I hope I explained this so that you can understand what is going on inside that timer.
If you were to look at your timer and see all those wires that are plugged onto that one edge with that quick disconnct plug....each one of those wires plug onto one point (contact).  This is why some are above others.  So the cams high spots come around and make them make contact and then as the cam continues to turn it makes them seperate contact to that feature of the dryer.  But not if those two contacts got stuck together??  The trick is checking that.  With a meter AND the schematic and knowing how to use that meter and read a schematic you could remove the quick disconnect on the timer and test between the proper pins that the associated wires are suppose to be on when it calls for a cool down.  You should get an open reading with your meter when you are on the correct pins on the timer and have turned the timer to where the cool down would suppose to be.  Usually the last 5 minutes.  But if you do not have a meter or know how to use it, or know how to read the wire diagram  I'm not sure I would  recomend that you get into that.  Lets see what others say.

Last edited on Fri Jun 10th, 2005 05:12 am by GLC



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 Posted: Fri Jun 10th, 2005 05:34 am
   
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Well first make sure that you always unplug your appliance.
The timer is the large knob that you turn to set how many minutes you want it to dry.  Thats called the timer.
The knob is all that you see.  But behind the console is the actual timer with a shaft coming through the console that this knob screws onto.  The knob would have to come off unscrewed.  Then inside the console you will see the back side of that unit (the timer)  There is a quick disconnect wire harness that plugs onto it.  Look how it is so you put it back the same way with out getting frustrates.  There are usually 2  5/16 inch head screws holding the timer in place under the dial.  Again remember the posistion of the timer before you take it out cause it only goes back in one way. 
Then you need to read the schematic and have and know how to use a meter.

One simple thing just to try before taking it apart and out.  With the unit unpluged and the back of the console off so you see that back side of the timer.  Take the flate part of your fist and give it one hard tap.  If those contacts were slightly welded that may make them break a part.  Then plug in dryer and try dryer again.  Remember this is just still trying to see if that is your problem.  It could be but just a guess is something with that heater is grounded.  But not being there we are just guesiing.  At least I am :-)
I have got to get some sleep and will check in with you tomorrow.

Last edited on Fri Jun 10th, 2005 06:47 am by GLC



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 Posted: Sat Jun 11th, 2005 03:41 am
   
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GLC



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Great going Donna ;)



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 Posted: Sat Jun 11th, 2005 04:59 pm
   
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Pegi
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Gordon, did we not tell her NOT TO REUSE THAT ELEMENT????    Sigh......................



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