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Maytag Neptune MAH5500BWW Repair help

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Posted: Fri Oct 6th, 2006 11:14 pm

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twithers
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I have a Neptune MAH5500BWW that got struck by lightning. Did some troubleshooting and narrowed it down to the control board (P/N 22004299). After replacing it, everything comes on as normal, but it won't start or turn off. It just shows the run time of the wash cycle as soon as you plug in the machine. the option can change i.e. hot/cold water, extra clean, all options. but when you push off, it doesn't turn off, and when you push start (with the door in place) it doesn't start. Any ideas?

Posted: Sat Oct 7th, 2006 03:39 pm

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Trying to help
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You probably have a bad membrane assembly. Both it and your board are covered by a 5 year parts warranty. To be sure it is the membrane, take a look at the tech sheet behind the control panel. It will tell you how to put it into a Membrane test to verify the making of the contacts.

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Posted: Sun Oct 8th, 2006 05:04 pm

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twithers
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I don't have a tech sheet behind the panel. Does anyone have the test for the membrane?

Posted: Sun Oct 8th, 2006 05:16 pm

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Trying to help
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Press and hold at the same time Delicates and Heavy Soil for 5 seconds. This will put you into the service mode. Once in this mode, you have to hit the Wrinkle Free button to start a membrane test. All the lights should be on when you go into the test I believe. You should be able to toggle (turn on and back off) any of the selections by hitting the corresponding key. Failure to enter a command over a 5 second period will abort the test and go out of the mode. Be quick.

Posted: Sun Oct 8th, 2006 06:17 pm

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twithers
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Thanks alot. I'll give it a shot.

Posted: Sun Oct 22nd, 2006 10:27 pm

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twithers
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OK, I did the membrane test and it was bad, so I got a new membrane unit and replaced it. Here are the new symptoms:

Everything works on the control panel as it should. I start the load and it runs water through the detergent cup into the tub for a bit and then stops. It is still for a few minutes during what I would assume is the agitation cycle. Then it rinses the bleach cup and then sits for a couple more minutes. Then it pumps the water out and then it rinses out the fabric softener cup and sits again for a couple of minutes. BTW, the counter is counting down the whole time. Then when it comes time to do the final big spin, it shows Er on the display, and unlocks the door.

What do I check from here?

Is there a listing in the forum of the service mode steps and how to use it to check the various functions? I don't have the factory tech sheet.

Thanks for all the help.

Posted: Mon Oct 23rd, 2006 12:01 pm

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twithers
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Posted: Mon Oct 23rd, 2006 06:32 pm

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Trying to help
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We are going to have to check for either a belt off the unit or a problem in the motor control system. Do you have a volt meter we can do some checks with? The fact that your tub is not turning is an indication of either a motor control board failure or a belt off. Since you stated it did receive a lightning strike, I would lean toward the board but we would want to prove it with a meter.

Posted: Mon Oct 23rd, 2006 06:41 pm

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twithers
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I've got the meter and the skills, just need the guidance. Thanks.

Posted: Mon Oct 23rd, 2006 07:01 pm

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Trying to help
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Do you have the serial number of the unit? Will make a difference on the schematic and which style motor you have in there.

Posted: Thu Oct 26th, 2006 02:07 am

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twithers
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Sorry it took so long, I got held up at work. Here's the serial #: 74949953ZU

Thanks for all the help, I really appreciate it.

Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2006 12:28 am

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twithers
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Any ideas ??

Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2006 12:55 am

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does_what_he_can
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it sounds like you have a bad motor control board. The main control sends power down the board and if it does not respond back then it will not continue to run. You will have to take off the front panel and visually inspect the board and you should be able to see the burn on the board. If you see that you may have to convert the board and switch out the motor with a conversion kit. 12002039.

Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2006 01:10 am

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One way to prove it is to do a voltage check at the motor board. Take the front off but leave the door on. Have your meter ready and set on AC voltage. Hit Delicates and Heavy Soil at the same time. This will put you into a board output test. Release those buttons after about 5 seconds, then hit spin, this will put it into a spin test. Motor, if function correctly will start to spin and the display will start to climb up as RPM's increase. If yours is staying at 00, do a voltage check at the front of the motor control board on the 2 wire harness that has the black and white wires. If you have 120VAC from white to black, and the motor is not moving and the display still shows 00, you will need the 12002039 does-what-he-can has mentioned. Click the parts link at the top of the page and bet one on the way.

Last edited on Sun Oct 29th, 2006 01:10 am by Trying to help

Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2006 01:34 am

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twithers
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Where do I hook up the meter for the first part of the check?

Posted: Sun Oct 29th, 2006 05:16 am

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does_what_he_can
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there is a harness with one black wire and one white wire. you need to check and see if you have 120 VAC on those two wires. if you do, then you are getting good power to the motor control. if no, then we have a broken wire, something miswired or, def. board. i have the service manual if we need it, but we need to know if we have good power to motor control.

Posted: Sun Nov 5th, 2006 03:32 pm

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twithers
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OK, I finally got time to check the voltages. The first time I put the washer into test for spin, it didn't spin, but it did sound like it was extracting all the water. Wierd. The second, third and fourth time it made no noise, and there was 120V at the motor control board. There was also 120V there with the washer completely turned off. Unplugging the whole unit was the only way to lose it. Normal?

Posted: Mon Nov 6th, 2006 07:25 pm

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does_what_he_can
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if you are getting power down the motor control board then that means the door lock circuit is ok because it is closing and sending power into the control board and getting back down to the motor control. so now it appears that you have a bad motor control. part runs about $200. you get new control and motor when you order #12002039 from repair clinic.com.

Posted: Tue Nov 7th, 2006 02:35 am

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twithers
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Does anyone have just the control board from the conversion kit for sale?

Posted: Tue Nov 7th, 2006 03:46 am

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hvacdrd
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unless you already have the new motor the new control board will not work with the old motor. Any serial number starting lower than 88 requires the complete kit. Motor, wiring harness, and control board. I believe this is the board used in the kit. Exact same price so you don't save anything.

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