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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > Heating, Ventilation, and Air Conditioning (HVAC) > GE Window Air Conditioner ASW12AAS1 PWB Schematic Available? |
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| GE Window Air Conditioner ASW12AAS1 PWB Schematic Available? | Rating:
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| Author | Post |
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| Posted: Mon Jun 7th, 2010 02:52 pm |
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1st Post |
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ABreese Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Unit is approx 7-9 years old, in storage for 6 years, excellent condition. Worked when stored. Other general info: capacitor is OK (replaced w/known good to check), overload protector also OK (0 ohms). Issue: the compressor relay (on the control PC Board) is not being energized - no 12Vdc across the relay coil. All other functions appear to function correctly - Fan speed, temp, etc are all functioning. Anything specifically known to fail on these boards? The board appears to be RepairClinic P/N 944300, but would like to avoid replacing the entire PCB. http://www.repairclinic.com/SSPartDetail.aspx?s=b3a16c212i944300&PartID=944300 Anyone have a old used PWB from a scrap unit? Thanks! Howard
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| Posted: Mon Jun 7th, 2010 05:49 pm |
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2nd Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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do you have a GE part number for that PC board ?
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Mon Jun 7th, 2010 08:58 pm |
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3rd Post |
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ABreese Senior Apprentice Appliantologist
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Thanks for the quick response. I don't have a Service Manual, so I can only provide the number from the paper tag on the board: DB93-00874B. By the way, one assumes I can simply jumper the AC portion of the relay to force the compressor to kick on, correct? I just wanted to ensure it was worth repairing. Last edited on Mon Jun 7th, 2010 09:09 pm by ABreese |
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| Posted: Mon Jun 7th, 2010 09:16 pm |
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4th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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ABreese wrote: ... one assumes I can simply jumper the AC portion of the relay to force the compressor to kick on, correct? I would think so ...
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Mon Jun 7th, 2010 09:36 pm |
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5th Post |
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RegUS_PatOff Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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ABreese wrote: ... DB93-00874B... It may just be a bad Relay looks like it's a Samsung part number used in Samsung A/C's also Maytag Whirlpool DB9300874B DB93-00874B may be similar to any last letter DB9300874(A-Z)
____________________ The new repair forums==> http://appliantology.org RegUS_PatOff http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPAY2LsKVEw my video production: “Easter Seals Walk With Me” http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-EBiLyYXMiA |
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| Posted: Mon Jun 7th, 2010 10:54 pm |
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6th Post |
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ACtechGUY Master Appliantologist
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I don't even know if window units have "low pressure switches", but if it is low on refrigerant, an open pressure switch would prevent the compressor from coming on. You could test this by bypassing the compressor relay on the board . Connect L1 (verify on unit diagram) to the relay output.(while unpowered of course) If, when you plug it in it blows cold for more than a minute , you may have a bad board( or if it has pressure switches, those need to be checked for open circuits). If it does not blow cold and the compressor is running, you have low refrigerant. Last edited on Mon Jun 7th, 2010 10:56 pm by ACtechGUY ____________________ Don't know much. But learned early on, once you let the smoke out of a something electrical, you can never put it back in!! |
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