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Sanyo Split A/C System KS-1852

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Posted: Mon Sep 7th, 2009 07:02 pm

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swedishchef
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I have a Sanyo Split System AC unit that stopped working (around the time of an electrical storm).
I just pulled the PCB from the inside unit (KS-1852) and the soldered fuse is bad.
Not sure if the rest of the board is ok or no good.

In any case, where can I get a replacement board for this unit? I just want to find out if it is worth the hassle of replacing the fuse, only to find another problem on the PCB.

I also noticed that one of the board compenents came loose when I removed the board (approx in center of board, labeld SEC WHT CN6 -- it has 2 pins.

Thanks

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Posted: Tue Sep 8th, 2009 12:45 am

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dkpd1581

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If your Sanyo is a ductless mini split then you can call Sanyo and they will give you a local rep. Those boards employ advanced electronics and your average parts house will not carry those unless they are the rep specific to the brand. They dont carry multiple brands of mini splits and parts - its too cost prohibitive and the manufacturers lock the dealers into exclusive contracts. If it is a ductless mini be prepared for a huge bill for any board.

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Posted: Tue Sep 8th, 2009 02:02 am

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swedishchef
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Thanks for the info.
With likely lightning damage do you think it is likely to be just the fuse or is there probably also other damage on the board?

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Posted: Tue Sep 8th, 2009 02:29 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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swedishchef wrote: ... one of the board compenents came loose when I removed the board ...
post picture ?

"Bork, bork, bork"
KS1852 Service Manual

Control PCB Part No. POW-KS1852

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Posted: Tue Sep 8th, 2009 02:14 pm

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swedishchef
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Here is a picture of the board with a red circle around the place where a component pulled out.

Does this help?

Attachment: DSC03089-1.jpg (Downloaded 53 times)

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Posted: Tue Sep 8th, 2009 02:47 pm

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swedishchef
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I called around looking for the board and found that the dealers will not sell to homeowners, only licensed contractors.

One guy was kind enough to provide a part number for the KS1852 PCB board: 6231547512

It is on backorder from the factory and would not be available until late October.

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Posted: Tue Sep 8th, 2009 03:49 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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I'm not familiar with that particuliar board, but can you post a picture of the part ?

alsp, what lettering is on the borad next to the part ?

Are the circuit paths on the back of the board OK ?

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Posted: Tue Sep 8th, 2009 04:07 pm

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swedishchef
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The component is a white plug with two brown wires (wrapped in a black plastic tube sheath).
The wires run toward the rear of the unit.

I just checked the wiring diagram and these are probably running to the secondary windings of the power transformer. (consistent with the "sec" lettering on the PCB).

Now that I think about it, this unit was a bit flakey before the storm. Maybe these contacts were loose before I started snooping in here?

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Posted: Tue Sep 8th, 2009 04:14 pm

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RegUS_PatOff
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swedishchef wrote: ...
I also noticed that one of the board compenents came loose when I removed the board (approx in center of board, labeld SEC WHT CN6 -- it has 2 pins.check all of the solder joints ..

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Posted: Tue Sep 8th, 2009 11:43 pm

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dkpd1581

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That plug may be to a coil sensor, return air sensor, supply sensor, or the motorized louver/damper control. That the board is on "Back Order" is not at all surprising from my experiences with mini splits.

Typical mini splits take line voltage into the board (supplied from the condensing unit) through a bridge rectifier, converted to DC, cleaned up (no harmonics, perfect wave form) and converted back to AC. You typically do not have a standard transformer. What you do have and can see is a Torroidal Transformer (copper wound circle next to the yellow, black, red wired plug).

Be prepared for sticker shock at the cost. The boards alone from my experience (whole sale price - no mark up) is usually the cost of the entire unit itself wholesale.

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Posted: Wed Sep 9th, 2009 05:50 am

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swedishchef
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Here's another photo of the unit, maybe to clear up which parts I'm talking about.
The transformer connected to the loose PCB socket is not on the board, but inside the case of the wall unit (see photo).

I'm hopeful that a fix on the PCB will bring it back to life.
Since I am terrible with soldering I'm looking for a local TV repair shop that can repair the board.

Attachment: DSC03095c.jpg (Downloaded 37 times)

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Posted: Thu Sep 10th, 2009 02:45 am

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12^th Post

swedishchef
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By the way, I am looking for a replacement fuse and it looks like the specs are:

208/230 V -- 3A

Is this a slow blow or a fast blow fuse??

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Posted: Thu Sep 10th, 2009 02:48 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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there could be more numbers on the fuse ..

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Posted: Thu Sep 10th, 2009 03:02 am

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swedishchef
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Yes, it says SOC MT3.
Found a link to the mfr website:
http://www.socfuse.com/products/rated3.html

So it looks like an "inrush-withstand" type.

Is this something I can pick up at Radio Shack or maybe online?

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Posted: Thu Sep 10th, 2009 03:45 am

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RegUS_PatOff
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somewhere in between

There's

(in order)

Fast Acting

Normal Acting

Inrush Withstand

Slow Blow

Radio Shack has Fast Acting and Slow Blow ...

Slow blow would be close ...

They don't have any Pig-Tail Fuses (if that's what you need)

You could use a Fuse holder ... either board-mount or In-Line Fuse Holder (with wires)

http://www.radioshack.com/category/index.jsp?categoryId=2032234

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Posted: Sat Sep 12th, 2009 08:04 pm

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swedishchef
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The board is at an electronics shop to be repaired, after picking up a fuse from a local electronics specialist.

I checked the coil specs today and had trouble getting a reading on the last pin for the flap motor. Specs say it should be 380 ohm, which is what I got between the 1-2, 1-3, and 1-4 pins. Looks like bad continuity on 1-5.

Do I need a new flap motor?

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Posted: Sat Sep 19th, 2009 02:31 am

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17^th Post

swedishchef
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chillin again

Big thanks to everyone who pitched in with some help on this board, and also to the Good Guys musical equipment shop in St. Paul who helped out with the soldering for a reasonable charge.

Now if I could only get the timer working on my Maytag Neptune dryer.
I think it is the PCB. I only get 55 volts on the brown wire while running. I'll start a separate post for this tale of woe.

Last edited on Sat Sep 19th, 2009 02:32 am by swedishchef

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