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Wiring Diagram for RUDD AC Unit  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Fri May 1st, 2009 03:16 am
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ftrevor
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I have a small problem with a RUDD UAKA-037JAZ condensing unit.  I need to replace the contactor (Honeywell R8243A-1031) which is a SPST 30A model.  The recommended replacement part is a CTR301PS.

The problem is that the replacement part (and the diagram for the R8243) don't match my physical part.  I have used many contactors in the past and understand the wiring. (Load, Source, Control).  The problem is my unit has a spade on the side that is wired to a large capacitor.

Is there a different part I should replace with or is there an alternate wiring approach to use with the replacement part?

I have a wiring diagram from RUDD, and it appears that the capacitor is tied to the load on the contactor. Does this make sense or should I draw my sword and do the only honerable thing.

T

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 Posted: Fri May 1st, 2009 06:44 am
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applianceman18007260692
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got a pic?



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 Posted: Fri May 1st, 2009 03:14 pm
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ftrevor
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Here is the wiring diagram.  Do you want a picture of the actual part and area I am having a problem with?

Attachment: 90-23238-01-10.pdf (Downloaded 23 times)

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 Posted: Fri May 15th, 2009 07:21 am
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ftrevor
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I see more people have downloaded the diagram, but nobody knows how to solve my problem?

:X

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 Posted: Sun May 17th, 2009 01:37 am
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dkpd1581



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You are over thinking the line/load issue.  Capacitors are load devices.  Sounds like you have a two or three pole contactor instead of the one pole version that you originally had.  It (the new one)LOOKS different however electrically it will all be the SAME in the eyes of the unit.  Just hook up everything as you had it with old contactor (whats on top stays on top, whats on bottom stays on bottom, whats on the left and right side stays on the left and right side) and when the contactor pulls it will all work.  Thats just the non-technical low down. 

You can  look to your diagram to see the run winding conections for the compressor and condensor fan motor, the common, and how the start winding get the capacitor in series from one side and power to energize the capacitor. How counter EMF removes the start winding, etc. Somehow I think you just want it to work at this point so just put whatever contactor you have now in the hole and hook it up the exact way it all came apart and you will be just fine.



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 Posted: Sun May 17th, 2009 11:58 pm
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Bobice

 

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Let me see, I think I remember writing this somewhere here ????


Contactors and Starters

 

On most single-phase compressors with a single-pole contactor, there is a solid bar on one side of the contactor instead of having two contacts. One leg of power passes down the bar to the capacitor and to the run winding. It passes through the run winding of the compressor and from common back to the contactor. It lands on the load side of the normally open contact of the contactor. At off cycle, line voltage will be read from one side of the normally open contact to the other: Line 1 on the line side and Line 2 on the load side via the windings.
The crankcase heater will be attached to the contactor with one leg on the load side and one on the line side of the normally open contacts. At off cycle it will have line voltage applied to it and will heat the crankcase. Once the contactor is energized, both the line and load side of the normally open contacts become one. Since you cannot feed a load with one line of power, the crankcase heater will not work again until the contactor opens. This is a simple way to turn the crankcase heater off during the on cycle and to turn it on at the off cycle. Exercise caution when checking this type of setup because power is always present on the load side of the contactor.]
 

Last edited on Mon May 18th, 2009 12:01 am by Bobice



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