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ge profile dishwasher PDW7880G00SS fries the float switch

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Posted: Tue Sep 19th, 2006 03:23 am

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mightythorman
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Onichiwa,

I have a ge profile dishwasher that won't fill with water, but the heating element goes on as if it is. Obviously, the float switch is burnt out. GE repair people came out (utterly useless) and suggested the float switch and control module needed replacing. After 2 months of waiting for their parts, I ordered my own. Started with the float switch. Once replaced, I ran the cycle, and the lights in the kitchen immediately flickered and I heard the float switch pop, and water stopped flowing in again. I ordered another float switch and a new control module. After replacing both, and turning on the dishwasher, the same thing happened. Lights flicker, pop goes the float switch, and water stops. Clearly not the control module. What could cause the overload to the float switch?

The control panel also has a slight translation, where all the buttons enable the adjacent cycle. I am assuming this is coincidental and unrelated.

GE service is pitiful. I'll never buy another GE appliance. 3 months with a broken dishwasher and no help.

Any help is much appreciated.

Domo arigato!
Senpaithorman

Posted: Tue Sep 19th, 2006 03:37 am

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Pegi
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Sounds like the transorb in the harness of the fill valve has shorted out, when it does this it takes out the board....if this is so you have to replace the transorb, float switch and the control board...look at the wiring harness to the fill valve, see if there is a transorb under the black heat shrink on one of the wires, believe yellow but cannot remember for sure...this part is to protect the board from stray junk when the fill valve opens and closes, but then it fails there goes the board and the float switch...not positive this is the problem with your dishwasher without knowing if it has this transorb, but sounds like the symptoms...

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Posted: Tue Sep 19th, 2006 03:41 am

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Mighty, get the wiring diagram from behind the kickplates and post it here as an attachment.

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Posted: Tue Sep 19th, 2006 04:23 am

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Pegi
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DISHWASHER

TRIPS CIRCUIT BREAKER

MODEL: GE MAX & ALL NEW ELECTRONIC MODEL

The GE Max series and the New Electronic Model of dishwashers contain a transient absorber

(``transorb``). It absorbs electrical transients created when the water valve is turned off. The

transorb is wired in the harness between the line and neutral sides of the water valve circuit. It

is located approximately 1-1/2 inches from the red water valve harness connector and is

attached to a yellow harness lead coming from the water valve on one end to a white-red

neutral wire on the other end. It is covered with black heat shrink tubing.

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Posted: Tue Sep 19th, 2006 04:31 am

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Thanks, Pegi! :dude:

Posted: Tue Sep 19th, 2006 04:32 am

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Pegi
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Try this one more time, this is for the Samurai....

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Posted: Tue Sep 19th, 2006 04:34 am

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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It worked, got it. Thanks again, Pegi. Good one! :tinkerbell:

Posted: Tue Sep 19th, 2006 04:38 am

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Pegi
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If he can get the wiring diagram it will show like a diode in the wiring harness to the fill valve, a symbol something like this?? ->- If this is a model with this transorb, sure sounds like it to me..

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Posted: Tue Sep 19th, 2006 12:25 pm

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mightythorman
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Thanks Pegi and Samarai for the suggestions. After following the instructions on locating the tech sheet, I came up empty...

"To find the tech sheet.

Take out the 4 1/4 inch screws that hold the two parts of the service panel in place. Lay down on the floor on your left side and look under the dishwasher. You'll notice there is a piece of sheet metal lining the underside of the tub.

The tech sheet is tucked between the tub and the sheet metal on the right side of the machine toward the front. Grab the sheet with your left hand."

Either I'm missing it or perhaps the previous repair person "borrowed" it. I'll pull the dw out completely later today and take a more thorough look, and also visually inspect for the transorb.

Thanks for all the help.
MTM

Posted: Wed Sep 20th, 2006 01:29 am

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mightythorman
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Pegi, Samurai,

I yanked the dishwasher out. No tech sheet. I think the GE repair folks must have sticky fingered it.
However, I have a good photo which appears to be the transorb, based on Pegi's excellent description, attached. Can you confirm this is a transorb, and advise on how to replace?

Thx much!
MTM

Attachment: transorb.JPG (Downloaded 70 times)

Posted: Wed Sep 20th, 2006 01:34 am

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mightythorman
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Also, I removed the harness to the water valve, and after re-attaching, can't seem to get it back off. is it possible I connected it with the leads reversed? Does it matter?

Thx,
MTM.

Posted: Wed Sep 20th, 2006 01:48 am

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Pegi
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Yep, that is the transorb in that black stuff, let me get you the part # for that harness repair kit...

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Posted: Wed Sep 20th, 2006 01:55 am

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Pegi
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WD35X10025 is the harness repair kit number, includes the transorb and connectors to replace this part of the wire harness....you have to replace the control and the flood switch also...

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Posted: Wed Sep 20th, 2006 01:58 am

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mightythorman
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Wow. What a tremendous help this is. I can't thank you enough, Pegi. And thanks, Samurai, for having the forum.

Posted: Wed Sep 20th, 2006 02:20 am

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Pegi
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You are welcome...we just sort of have ways and places of finding this stuff...sometimes, if we are lucky...

....remembered writing that bulletin up for a tech only forum a week or so ago, just had to search for it among over 9,000 links to manuals and bulletins...LOL

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Posted: Wed Sep 20th, 2006 04:49 am

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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Part link for the transorb kit: http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=948008

You can buy the water inlet valve and control board there, too.

:dude:

Posted: Sat Mar 29th, 2008 10:33 pm

17^th Post

lacross_2000
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Hi Peggy,

I am so glad I found this article in the forum!! I have the exact same problem! The GE guy and all of the parts stores I called did not know what the heck I was talking about. The transorb replacement kit is what I need.

I need some more advice and guidance please. When my dishwasher stopped filling with water I replaced the water inlet valve to no avail, my next step was to replace the flood switch which I found to be inoperative (definately wasted). I thought for sure that was the problem. after replacing the flood switch, I powered on the dishwasher and when I hit the start button, poof!!!! the Transorb was smoked!! after cutting out the transorb I repowered the dishwasher to see if I still had power to the control panel. to my surprise I did and after pressing start, it appears to start the cycle. of course power was not applied to the water valve or whatever the transorb feeds. the control panel appears to be fine.

Do you think I need to replace the control board? it appears to be okay. I was thinking that since I replaced the flood swith and the water inlet, maybe those are okay as well. I was going to replace the transorb and see if I could get away without having to replace any more parts. thoughts???

Posted: Sun Mar 30th, 2008 12:15 am

18^th Post

Pegi
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Sounds like you toasted your new flood switch..see if you have voltage to the valve or not...all of the info is in this thread....going to close this thread now as it is older and un-secured....please register and repost your question if replacing the flood switch, transorb kit and control panel does not get er going...posting a link back to this thread for us in your new topic would help also for reference....Thanks, Pegi

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