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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > GE Refrigerator Ice maker not making ice

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GE Refrigerator Ice maker not making ice  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Fri Aug 25th, 2006 01:41 am
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police22
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I have a GE Side By Side Model # GSH22KGMB BB
With icemaker Model CAN13 (WR30X10012)

We bought this unit Brandnew in June 2001. I know about the lawsuit on this model but dont qualify cause we never called it in. (At least that is what i read you had to do).:yikes:

This problem started about 2 weeks ago.. although the frost and stuff has been doing it a while. Right now its not making any ice.. the light is on.. wife read in book and on websites that you can turn it off, make sure there is no ice blocked and turn it back on.. then wait 45 mins for it to make ice.. well 45 mins later no ice..

I have the icemaker and the unit below it.. (the one that does the crushed/cubed, I cant find the official name of it right now.. ) is there a way to test the ice maker, also what are the chances of the water lines freezing up or getting clogged.. is there a way to take out the lines or blowing them out with out hurting anything and turning it off.. (lotta meat) :X

This is one of the first sites that came up with this model # so props to the Techs/admins/everyone else.

Thanks for you help,


 

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 Posted: Fri Aug 25th, 2006 02:44 am
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cdwasher
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The simples thing to do is to remove the water inlet going to the icemaker at the valve  and blowing in it to see if it is blocked with ice

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 Posted: Fri Aug 25th, 2006 03:04 am
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police22
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cdwasher wrote: The simples thing to do is to remove the water inlet going to the icemaker at the valve  and blowing in it to see if it is blocked with ice


Well like i said.. i have removed the icemaker.. its sitting on my counter all defrosted.. so there is no ice.. i took the side off and there was ice inside.. is that normal?..

actually the inlet is in the back.. not even hooked to the icemaker.. it just drips..

What about the lines?......

Last edited on Fri Aug 25th, 2006 03:09 am by police22

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 Posted: Fri Aug 25th, 2006 04:52 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Not sure you and cdwasher are talking about the same thing, but cdwasher is describing a simple way of ensuring that the icemaker fill tube is not plugged with ice. You would do this test from in back of the refrigerator, removing the plastic tube attached to the water inlet valve and blowing into it:



You should also test the valve coil for continuity: http://fixitnow.com/2004/12/appliance-repair-revelation-making.htm

And verify that the you have water pressure at the water inlet valve supply. If all that checks good, then and only then can you conclude that the icemaker itself is the problem.



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 Posted: Fri Aug 25th, 2006 07:00 pm
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police22
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote: Not sure you and cdwasher are talking about the same thing, but cdwasher is describing a simple way of ensuring that the icemaker fill tube is not plugged with ice. You would do this test from in back of the refrigerator, removing the plastic tube attached to the water inlet valve and blowing into it:



You should also test the valve coil for continuity: http://fixitnow.com/2004/12/appliance-repair-revelation-making.htm

And verify that the you have water pressure at the water inlet valve supply. If all that checks good, then and only then can you conclude that the icemaker itself is the problem.


I was wondering if that was what he was talking about.. ok..
I have to run, for an appt.. ill try that and let you know..

Thanks for the additional info.

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 Posted: Sat Aug 26th, 2006 12:18 am
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police22
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Ok.. well I think I figured out what the problem is.. Maybe:help:
What do you think... :notworthy:

First I took the hose out of the top freezer side and blew in it.. and its not clogged.
Then I took the cover off on the bottom rear were the valve is..

It is a dual valve with blue for water and red for ice.. I tested the continuity and I guess it tested good.. but not sure. :huh:

Continuity
The Blue Solenoid when touched the 2 leads... read at: 0.271
The Red Solenoid when touched the 2 leads.... read at: 0.157
Voltage:
The Blue Solenoid Wire Harness read with water switch off: 10v
The Blue Solenoid Wire Harness read with water switch on: 113v
The Red Solenoid Wire Harness read with Ice switch off: 10v
The Red Solenoid Wire Harness read with Ice switch on: 113v

Ok.. that seams normal to me.. but the problem is when I pull the tube out of the valve, with everything turned on, no water comes out. So I suspect the valve is bad.
Its getting the voltage it needs to open the valve but its solenoid is not opening.

So is this the valve? I think so but does it sound like it.. is there maybe another culprit?..

If you need any more info let me know..

Thanks,



 

Last edited on Sat Aug 26th, 2006 12:22 am by police22

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 Posted: Sun Aug 27th, 2006 05:01 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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The most definitive test would be to rig up a power cord and apply 120vac directly to the icemaker water inlet valve to see if water actually flows into the icemaker. If it does, then replace the icemaker.



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 Posted: Sun Aug 27th, 2006 05:52 am
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police22
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote: The most definitive test would be to rig up a power cord and apply 120vac directly to the icemaker water inlet valve to see if water actually flows into the icemaker. If it does, then replace the icemaker.


Well as i said in my previous post that there was 113v being supplyed directly to the valve.. and still no water flow..... I think the valve is bad.. not the icemaker..

???????????


So did i just read your post wrong.. i tested the leads and had voltage..

Last edited on Sun Aug 27th, 2006 05:54 am by police22

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 Posted: Sun Aug 27th, 2006 05:56 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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Solenoids are electro-mechanical devices; this means they can fail electrically or mechanically, hence the cord test. But you do what you want.



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 Posted: Sun Aug 27th, 2006 06:02 am
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police22
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote: Solenoids are electro-mechanical devices; this means they can fail electrically or mechanically, hence the cord test. But you do what you want.

Ok.. just not understanding the difference would be.. but ill try in morn..

Thanks

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 Posted: Sun Aug 27th, 2006 06:07 am
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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The difference is this: testing with a meter only checks the electrical functioning of the solenoid, but not its mechanical function. The power cord test checks both and is the only definitive test to prove that the solenoid is fully functional.



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 Posted: Sun Aug 27th, 2006 07:37 pm
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police22
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man wrote: The difference is this: testing with a meter only checks the electrical functioning of the solenoid, but not its mechanical function. The power cord test checks both and is the only definitive test to prove that the solenoid is fully functional.

Well I STILL don't get it... but you don't have to go into detail if you don't want to..

I did what you said.. and some how it worked.. so its the icemaker..

What I dont get is that the ice maker was suppling the 110v to the solenoid, why did it work when i just put 110v from the wall.. see that is what i dont get.. unless it has to do with signal or the orange wire that was going to both was not a ground but something else.. i dont know.. oh well ..  at least I put my stubberness way and tried it. lol.. Thank You so much... when i get the icemaker in ill let you know if its working too!!!

Thanks.. :coolblast::dancing: :notworthy:

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 Posted: Sun Aug 27th, 2006 08:07 pm
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man
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police22 wrote:
What I dont get is that the ice maker was suppling the 110v to the solenoid, why did it work when i just put 110v from the wall.. see that is what i dont get..
You might have made an error when measuring the voltage. Or maybe you have an open neutral in the wiring from the icemaker to the valve. In accordance with the 3rd Law of the Prophecy, you may want to re-test the voltage from the icemaker-- a good test would be to hook up a regular 120vac lightbulb t the wiring from the icemaker and see if the bulb lights when you cycle the icemaker. If it does not, then the problem is either a bad icemaker or bad wiring somewhere (this is much less common). If it does, well, you did something wrong in reporting your previous measurements because the solenoid should have opened, too



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