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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Maytag Dishwasher Soap Dispenser Doesn't Fully Empty/Poor Wash

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Maytag Dishwasher Soap Dispenser Doesn't Fully Empty/Poor Wash  Rate Topic 
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 Posted: Tue Aug 15th, 2006 06:27 am
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dscott60
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Recently my 8 year old Maytag dishwasher Model # DWU8860BAE has not been washing properly on the Normal cycle.  It sounds ok and there are no leaks, but when the cycle is finshed most of the soap is caked in the soap dispenser and the dishes are only partially clean.  I tried using the quick/china cycle instead.  The soap dispenser worked better, but it doesn't work great on dirty dishes. How can I get my dishwasher to work properly on the normal cycle again?

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 Posted: Tue Aug 15th, 2006 07:55 am
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bigger hammer



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regardless of make and model, usually when you have soap remaining in the dispensor it means you have a water pressure issue. water pressure meaning your sprayarms arent producing enough. so first i would check them and make sure all the sprayholes are clean. then i would try the old trick of putting  one cup on the top rack and one on the bottom rack UPRIGHT.

fire up the D/W, let it fill and run for a couple of minutes. both cups should be at least half full after 2 minutes. if not then you may be looking at a filling issue. could be plugged screen in the water valve, bad water valve (only fills for first fill but not for the other 4-5 fill cycles), timer, stripped impeller on motor(you would be hearing funny noises though). so start easy and work your way to the "fun" stuff



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 Posted: Tue Aug 15th, 2006 05:23 pm
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dscott60
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I cleaned the spray arms like you recommended.  The top one was at least 50% clogged.  Afterwards I did the cup test and each one filled to the top. I'm going to try a complete normal cycle to check if the problem is corrected.  Thanks for all your help.

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 Posted: Tue Aug 15th, 2006 08:26 pm
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dscott60
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Unfortunately there was still detergent in the cup and in the bottom of the dishwasher.  Now that the spray is ok and the cup test worked.  Where should I look next, the water valve? Why would the water valve work for the light cycle and not the normal cycle?

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 Posted: Tue Aug 15th, 2006 10:52 pm
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A few things to check.

Water level- Water on this unit should be up to the bottom of the heating element at the 9 & 3 O'clock positions. The water in the unit should be stopping by the float switch rising, not the timer advancing into the wash cycle

Wash water pressure- You cleaned the top arm, what about the bottom one. Make sure it is clean and give it a twist to make sure the seam has not started to split on you. You will loose a lot of pressure should the seam open. You will want to check out your filter to make sure it is not all gunked up as well. After you remove your arm, you then remove the torx bits that hold the top of the pump cover down. After you remove it, you will see a mesh filter in the center of the assembly. Take it out and clean as needed. In the center of the filter is a 4 armed back wash arm. Its job is to spray water on the filter to keep it clean. If the slits in it are clogged, clean those as well. When you go to put everything back together, you will notice two plastic split rings that go on prior to putting your arm back on. Make sure the slits in the rings are 180* opposite of each other so you do not loose pressure there as well. There is a kit to help with units that have lost pressure due to components warping. It is broken down by serial number. If all else checks fine, post the serial number and we might have to go that route. Let us know!   



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 Posted: Wed Aug 16th, 2006 06:48 pm
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dscott60
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I checked the bottom spray arm.  It was clean and there was no indication of splitting. I checked and cleaned the back wash arm and filter.  There was some material there, but not enough to be a major problem.  I put it back to together, but the same old problem remains.  I noticed that the prewash detergent cup is clean and the main wash side is the one that is not being used.  I opened the dishwasher about half way through the cycle and the detergent cup had opened, but there was no water in the dishwasher.  An earlier reply said that could be and indication of a bad water valve.  Is that my next step?

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 Posted: Wed Aug 16th, 2006 07:05 pm
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We have to find out why there was no water in the unit. Are we missing a fill (timer, float switch, valve) or is possibly the water draining out?(drain line going through floor and not being looped up to prevent siphoning. Do you have a meter we can do checks with once we get it into a position where it is not filling?? 



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 Posted: Thu Aug 17th, 2006 10:01 pm
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dscott60
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I went ahead and changed the water valve. Not that bad of a job.  When I removed the old valve and could see that it was clogged with white, gradular guk at the screen.  I didn't want to take any chances so I installed a new water valve and it works like clockwork.  What was the white guk on the water side of the screen?  How does it get there and how can I prevent this buildup from happening again?  Thanks again for all of your advice.

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 Posted: Sat Aug 19th, 2006 02:56 am
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IF THE WHITE GUNK LOOKS LIKE POWDERED  LAUNDRY DETERGENT ITS PROBALLY RESIDUE FROM PLASTIC FILL  TUBE INSIDE YOUR WATER HEATER.  IF SO IT NORMALLY CAN BE REPLACED.  BIGBOX  OR PLUMBING SUPPLIER CAN SUPPLY THEM.        



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