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ApplianceGuru.com: The Samurai Appliance Repair Forums > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > Caloric Pilotless Wall Oven not working |
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| Caloric Pilotless Wall Oven not working | Rating: 
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| You have chosen to ignore Ovenless. click Here to view this post |
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| You have chosen to ignore Ovenless. click Here to view this post |
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| Posted: Wed May 25th, 2005 12:41 pm |
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3rd Post |
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Budget Appliance Repair Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology
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Can almost guarantee you that the ignitor is bad. If ignitor glows, (but only bright orange look, not almost white hot), then the ignitor isn't drawing enough amps to open the safety valve. The only way to know for sure is to use an amp probe and see the amp draw of the ignitor. If the ignitor at least glows you know the safety valve has continuity and also the t-stat and that it's most likely getting 120volts as needed. The thing that you are calling a thermal couple in your oven cavity is the oven t-stat sensor that senses the heat in the oven and tells it when to turn on/off. This should be the ignitor for your oven: CLICK HERE And, about jumping the leads on the safety valve, I don't know what you did or mean by jumping the leads but if you sent 120volts direct without the ignitor in the circuit you have fryed the safety valve also. If you have fryed the safety valve the ignitor will no longer glow, so if after whatever you did the ignitor is still glowing your safety valve should still be ok. Last edited on Wed May 25th, 2005 12:43 pm by Budget Appliance Repair ____________________ William Burk (Willie) Willie's Budget Appliance Repair Eureka, CA 95501 |
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| You have chosen to ignore Ovenless. click Here to view this post |
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| Posted: Wed May 25th, 2005 02:42 pm |
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5th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology 
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Ovenless wrote: How many amps should the ignitor be pulling? Should it be tested when its on and hot? See this page for more information and specifications on these ignition systems.
____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| You have chosen to ignore Ovenless. click Here to view this post |
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| Posted: Thu May 26th, 2005 12:55 am |
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7th Post |
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Samurai Appliance Repair Man Fermented Grand Master of Appliantology
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____________________ To ask a question, use our new forums==> http://appliantology.org 365-Day No-Hassle Return Policy on all parts purchased through this site, even electrical parts that have been installed! |
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| Posted: Tue Aug 1st, 2006 10:20 pm |
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8th Post |
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Charred Grasshopper
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Hi, I have the same problem and will be replacing the Igniter on my Caloric Pilotless Oven RXP216. My igniter looks like this: http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=2198. My question is, to replace the long ceramic igniter, do I have to access the rear of the oven where there appears to be a removable access cover or do I take apart the heat shield and just pull the old igniter out through the front of the broiler and then just attach and slide the new igniter into the back wall of the broiler and reassemble the heatshield? Thanks for your help! Last edited on Wed Aug 2nd, 2006 03:41 am by |
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| Posted: Wed Aug 2nd, 2006 03:31 am |
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9th Post |
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AccApp Fellow, Academy of Sublime Masters of Appliantology 
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You should be able to pull it out from the front, just be sure to shut off the electric power before you take anything apart. I find lots of older stuff wired with reverse polarity, still works fine but will bite you when you get into it.
____________________ "When you have eliminated all which is impossible, then whatever remains, however improbable, must be the truth." Sir Arthur Conan Doyle. http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm |
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