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- > Do-It-Yourself Appliance Repair Help > The Kitchen Appliance Repair Forum > bake element replaced - but still does not work

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bake element replaced - but still does not work  Rating:  Rating
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 Posted: Mon Jul 24th, 2006 12:53 am
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rikmoor
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Hello all - first time poster...hope all goes well!

The bake element on my oven recently shorted out.  It was lifted to clean under it and the contacts touched the outer metal oven wall shorting it out.  The leads were actually welded to the disconnect from the power source and I have a nice half moon shape in the oven wall.  I replaced the disconnect on the power source and replaced the bake element to no avail.  The broil element still works but the bake won't.  Is there something else I should have checked/replaced due to this short?

Thanks in advance for the help!!

Rick

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 Posted: Mon Jul 24th, 2006 02:55 am
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Can you post your wiring schematic? GE protects them pretty well from outside servicers. Post it and we should figure it out in a couple of quick voltage checks. 



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 Posted: Mon Jul 24th, 2006 03:12 am
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cdwasher
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sometimes when you short out the element serverly as you stated it causes other parts to burn out .that why we need the wiring diagram,if your handy with a meter you can check and see what part of the circuit is not sending voltage to he element

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 Posted: Mon Jul 24th, 2006 12:23 pm
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rikmoor
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Is this a schematic that I will need to draw or is there one on my oven somewhere?  I think I recall reading about this on another post - there should be some sort of pocket/envelope with the wiring diagram in it.  Anyway, I'm at work now and will have to do this tonight when I get home.  I do have a volt/ohm meter and am pretty decent with it.  So hopefully my talents with that shouldn't be a problem!! 

Thanks!!

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 Posted: Mon Jul 24th, 2006 12:24 pm
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The schematic is cleverly hidden in the range, control panel and pots drawer are two common hiding places.



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 Posted: Tue Jul 25th, 2006 01:21 am
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rikmoor
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Alright - I have my wiring diagram - there are 2 large wiring diagrams - one is for Part No. 229C4962-0 and the other for Part No. 229C4962P002-0.  How do I know which is for my oven?  They both look essentially the same.  The second one listed above seems to show more the actual parts - like thermal switches, oven temp sensor,etc.  The first one listed seems to show more actual "switches" that are open, similar to this ___/  ___  and the little symbols on lines that look like ------/\/\/\/\/\------

Anyway, maybe that gives me enough so you all can tell me which diagram you need.

Thanks!!!

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 Posted: Tue Jul 25th, 2006 01:04 pm
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rikmoor
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Here is a pdf of the wiring diagram...hope you all can read it and give me some guidance!  Thanks for all the help!

Attachment: _0725080334_001.pdf (Downloaded 12 times)

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 Posted: Tue Jul 25th, 2006 08:42 pm
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rikmoor
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Well, since I haven't heard anything on the wiring diagram yet, I couldn't help but start probing with my volt meter.  I checked resistance on a few items with the breaker off - don't really know what the resistance should have been so I don't know what that tells me anyway.  But I also checked voltage with the breaker on and the oven set to preheat on bake - I only got 91 volts at the bake element.  To test things, I then set the preheat broil on - I had almost 250 volts at the broil element.  So I'm getting resistance somewhere, just don't know where or what my resistance readings should be.

Thanks in advance for any help!!

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 Posted: Tue Jul 25th, 2006 09:04 pm
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With unit unplugged disconnect bake element. Check for continuity on Yellow wire from element side to terminal BA on board. If wire checks good, you are not getting L1 from board to bake terminal (relay bad). Time for a new board....http://www.repairclinic.com/0080.asp

Last edited on Tue Jul 25th, 2006 09:08 pm by stumpowitz



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 Posted: Tue Jul 25th, 2006 09:47 pm
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rikmoor
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Just to make sure I did this right - I disconnected power - I removed one of the wires from the bake element to break the connection there.  I then pulled the wire off BA1 - this was a yellow wire - this is the same yellow wire that connects to one end of the bake element.  I tested continuity (using the ohm setting on my voltmeter) - the ohm started at 1 - when I touched across the two wires, it went to 0.  I presume this means there is continuity since it does the same thing when I touch the 2 probes of the voltmeter together.  Therefore, it seems my board may be fried.

Part 2 - I haven't been able to get my model number to work.  It is JKP15W0D1WW - The 0 is a zero - I have looked at my tag 10 times now and get the same number each time.  Any ideas?  I had to call in to get my bake element part number.  This is a GE True Temp wall oven.

Thanks again for everything!

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 Posted: Tue Jul 25th, 2006 10:19 pm
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A voltage check from L1 to BA on your clock with the unit programed to 550 will tell you as well. If you read 240VAC, then all your wires and connections are good and your relay is not closing. You have L2 potential through the wire, trough the element and sitting at the BA terminal if all is good. If you do that check it is done with all the wires connected. As far as your clock goes, is there any numbers on it that start with a WB?X? If so you might be able to punch that in the manufacturers part number section of the link above cutting off the need for the model. 



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 Posted: Tue Jul 25th, 2006 10:50 pm
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rikmoor
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Got a WB number off the control board - WB27T10334 - tried that without the 0 in there - also tried the Part Detective and found over 600 parts.  Guess I'll just call with my model number - seemed to work for my bake element.

And if this thing really costs in the $260 range, I may just be getting a new oven.  It isn't that nice of an oven.

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 Posted: Wed Jul 26th, 2006 02:00 am
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Trying to help
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Have you seen the back of the clock assembly? Substitute an X for the T in the part number and see if it looks like that relay board.



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 Posted: Wed Jul 26th, 2006 03:30 am
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stumpowitz



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In my last post I included the link for your control.



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 Posted: Wed Jul 26th, 2006 11:56 am
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Budget Appliance Repair
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Stumpowitz, When you post a link for our grasshoppers it's not doing them any good. When you do a parts lookup and have the small picture of the part the URL that you will always get is the http://www.repairclinic.com/0080.asp ,(anytime you enter this URL without doing a new lookup it will just bring up the last part you looked up.)

To get the actual link with the correct RepairClinc part# so that anyone who clicks on the link will see what you're trying to direct them to you need to click on the small picture which will bring up the big picture and then use the URL that you get with the big picture.

Also, take a look at this that Samurai posted, http://applianceguru.com/forum3/8402.html this will expain to you how to form the link URL so that Samurai will make the small commission amount from sales to keep this site running.



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 Posted: Wed Jul 26th, 2006 05:38 pm
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rikmoor
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Anyone want to try and link the control again?  I still haven't found it and it doesn't appear to be the one I get when I substitue and "x" for the "t" in my part number.

Thanks Stumpowitz for trying - but Budget Appliance is right - the first time I went to the link, it was just the main page of the part detective - the second time I went, I saw the part I looked at in my first visit!

Thanks!!

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 Posted: Wed Jul 26th, 2006 06:59 pm
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stumpowitz



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Here goes, http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=154&N=911182  Try it now!



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 Posted: Wed Jul 26th, 2006 07:54 pm
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rikmoor
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Awesome!  That is it.  One will be on the way very shortly!  Thanks to all for the help!!  I'll be back if this thing doesn't work...but all indications point to it as the culprit.

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 Posted: Thu Aug 3rd, 2006 01:02 am
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rikmoor
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Just wanted to say, I got my new control board in the mail today, installed it and just ate a pizza out of my now repaired oven!  Thank you to all for the help - what a great place.  I spent about $200 on parts for this repair - I have to assume that replacing the bake element and control board would have been at least double that.  Thank you to all for contributing to such a great forum!!

And being an engineer, I had to tear my old control board apart to see what happened - it is basically 2 "motherboards" sandwiched together - inside these 2 boards, right at the bake element connector, the board was toast.

Last I will say that switching that ribbon connector from the keypad on the front of the oven was a little stricky - it took 2 times, but I got it working.

Thanks again!!

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 Posted: Fri Aug 4th, 2006 05:16 pm
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stumpowitz



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Good Job! Now when the pocketbook fills back up, consider a donation to the Beerfund http://www.fixitnow.com/beerfund.htm



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